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Benllech Area | North Wales Climbs

Benllech Area

BENLLECH

These Crags can be accessed from the car park by the main Beach at Benllech in about 5, 10 and 15 minutes respectively (walk North towards Moelfre). The first part of the Leaning Wall area can be seen from the Beach and can be accessed along the shore line at most states of tide except HW Springs. Anglers Zawn lies directly below a campsite and can be accessed either along the coast from the Leaning Wall area or from the coastal path above. Use the coastal path to access Hidden Wall after about 15 minutes walking wooden steps lead down to a pebble beach and the bottom of the crag. Anglers Zawn and Hidden Wall can be accessed 2-3 hours or so before and after Low Water giving a good few hours of climbing. At High Water Deep Water Soloing could be a possibility – Check it out at Low Water First!!!

Also on the south-east side of the beach past the sewage treatment works heading towards St David’s caravan site is a small crag close to Craig Dwlban consisting of 2 walls. Follow the coastal path south or walk along the beach. Currently these are trad routes, but will be bolted hopefully in the future.

Leaning Wall Area:
Costa Del Benllech E3 6a (F6c?)
Takes the line of resin bolts on the left hand side of the wall to a lower off.
FA. Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones. Summer 91 (resin bolts feb 08)
Trigonometry F6c+
Start by climbing the ‘Trigonometrical’ feature then continue steeply on small holds up the line of bolts to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett, Chris Davies Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts December 2007)
Crackpot Crack E3 5c (F6b+?)
The crack right of Trigonometry to the same lower off. Resin bolts protect. FA Chris Davies, Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones. Summer 91 (resin bolts feb 08)

The Tide is Turning F6b
New route just left of the large corner crack (right of the previous routes) follows a line of 5 bolts up and just left of a shallow V groove to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 20/12/07

Ian’s Project F7? Will eventually climb a line up the middle of the face right of the big corner crack (right of the tide is turning). 2 bolt lower off in place + top bolt + some holes drilled. Please respect this project. Thanks!After a thumbs up from Ian via Panton that its open, this is now:
Gone Fishing F7bish Maybe 7a+?? Steep start to ledge then up groove/ crack to small roof, before launching up the headwall to finish on a thank god jug just over the final little roof. Lower off. Steep, varied climbing, worth a star. (stays dry in light rain) 6 bolts protect- 1 resin, 5 stainless 12mm’s.
F.A Jon Ratcliffe 31/07/08
N.B Parkin is worried about the weld rusting on the resins so has recommended using the 12mm stainless though bolts until problem sorted.
Fossil Zone F6a+
New route on the right hand side of this part of the upper tier. Climbs a clean section of the wall on small holds past numerous fossils and 5 bolts to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 20/12/07

Anglers Zawn: (Tidal)

Carlesberg Crack VS 
Takes the deep crack line left of the cave. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991
Trampled Underfoot E2 5b
The obvious bow shaped crack just right of Carlesburg Crack finish direct.FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991
Candystore Rock E2 5c
Follow Trampled Underfoot until it is possible to traverse rightwards and finish up the head wall. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991
Mother Ship F6b New route, climbs the right hand side of the sea cave up the rounded arete to the steep crack above 4 bolts protect, belay on 2 good threads. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 30/08/08
The Song Remains the Same F6b
The steep wall past 3 bolts just right of the blow hole by the horizontal break to a lower off / belay on the ledge above. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991(New Resin Bolts December 2007)
Ramble On E2 5b
The thin crackline with a small roof at the bottom to the right of the previous route. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991
Dazed and Confused F6b
Right again after a blocky start a line of 3 bolts leads the way up the wall to a lower off / belay on the ledge above. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts December 2007)
The Whispers E1 5b
The thin crackline in the centre of the wall passing through the obvious inverted triangle at 1/2 height. FA Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 1991
Registration Blues E2 5b
The thin crack right of the Whispers. FA Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 1991
Reflections E3 5c
The thin crackline right again with a small overlap on its right. FA Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 1991
Pencil Crack VS 5a New Route, climbs the thin well protected crack to the right of Reflections. FA Phil Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 30/08/08
Paper Moves HVS 5a
The easy corner direct to the shallow groove in the arete (Bolt). FA Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolt December 2007)
Carousel Ambra F5+
Climbs the initially blocky arete via 3 bolts to a thinner finish which gains the lower off / belay. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts December 2007)
Guitar Solo F6a
The thin crack line to a blocky finish just left of Vi et Armis 3 bolts protect. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones (solo) Summer 1991
Vi Et Armis F6b+
A barnacly boulder problem start gains the first horizontal break… small holds and 3 bolts lead the way to the top and a shared lower off / belay. FA Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts December 2007)
Wind of Change F6b
Another barnacly boulder problem start gains the first horizontal break… small holds and 3 bolts lead the way to larger holds and the top (to the same shared lower off / belay). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts December 2007)
Drum Solo F5+
The thin crack line to a blocky finish right of Wind of Change finishing just left of the hanging arete…3 bolts protect. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones (solo) Summer 1991Anglers Zawn Upper Tier – The upper tier can be accessed at all states of tide by scrambling down the left hand end of Anglers Zawn (as you look out to sea)
Note: This approach is well slippery when wet. The ledges are covered in slime. Not a big drop – but not a nice landing either! Consider an abseil from the top of Anglers Zawn (tide permitting) if it’s wet. Another alternative is to walk along the cliff top towards Moelfre, drop down to the next inlet and walk back along the boulder beach (Preferably on an ebbing tide)
I have drilled a hole for a resin bolt directly above this slippery access point so that a short rope can be left in place to make the access easier / safer. Will place bolt / rope sometime soon. Knotted rope now in place which makes the approach + exit safer and easier.The Grey Bay/White Wall (100m further along from Anglers Zawn)

Since the ivy was removed to make room for more routes these next two crags blend into one another. The starts might me overgrown in the summer, but there is some nice climbing here if the weather is threatening ad you don’t fancy being committed to a route at Gogarth.

These first three routes start on the wall left of the vegetated corner of Heulwen.

Groundless Fears F6a+* 18m  From the ledge move out left and clip the first bolt on Bubble Wall then continue the traverse leftwards to another bolt on Deep Heat. Carry on sideways to a 3rd bolt and follow the line of bolts upwards to the prominent pillar above to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both lead) 05/03/09

Deep Heat F6a* 16m . From the ledge move out left and clip the first bolt on Bubble Wall then continue the traverse leftwards to another bolt. Follow the line of bolts and the crack line upwards to steeper ground and the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both lead) 05/03/09

Bubble Wall F6a *16m. Climbs the obvious line of vertical cracks past some vegetation just left of Heulwen, 5 bolts protect and lead the way to a lower off. A great warm up route with some steep climbing on big holds and pockets. FA Phil Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones (Both lead ) 23/Nov/2008.

Heulwen HVS 5a16m. Climbs the obvious vegetated corner line that defines the left side of the grey bay on the Upper Tier of Anglers Zawn. 10m left of The White Wall. Initially climbs the Groove before battling up the continuation crack. Well protected with a steep and strenuous finish (Bolt / chain Lower Off) Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (both Led) 28/Sep/2008 

A Quiet American F6b+**16m. Climbs the bolted line of weakness right of Heulwen. Start up a thin crack to the first bolt. Technical and balance climbing leads to a series of desperately thin moves on mini-pockets to reach better holds by the roof. Finish up jugs to the shared lower off with A Pocket Full of Pockets. Phil Targett and Ian LLoyd Jones (Both lead ) 28/Sep/2008.

A Pocket Full of Pockets F6b** 16m. Climbs up to the base of the steep groove that defines the right hand side of the grey bay. Some technical baffling moves up this lead to a puppy finish/reach for the lower off.  FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (both Led) 8/Nov/2008

Thumb War F6c*16m.  Start as for A Pocketful of Pockets, after the 2nd bolt head right below the overhang to gain the 3rd bolt and the start of the groove. Tricky moves up the groove and across to gain the arête, continue upwards with some interesting moves and small pockets to the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 26/02/09

Trench Town Rock F6b18m.  Start a few metres right of the previous route, climb steeply up to the left edge to a prominent ledge, more steep climbing will gain a clean slab, cross this with some thinner moves before moving up to clip the final bolt and on to the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 23/Nov/2008

Dawg Gawn F6b* 16m New Route. Start a few metres right of Trench Town Rock below a crack which leads to and through the obvious steep bulge. Continue up the line of bolts to a shared lower off with Trench Town Rock. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 26/02/09

Dig Dig Dog F6b+* 15m. Start a few metres right of Dawg Gawn and left of Sportingly Pocketed below a prominent steep crack which is spouting some vegetation. Follow this to a bulge which is surmounted with interesting then onto a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (both Lead) 20/04/09

White Wall 

The rock on this section of the wall is not as good as that on the grey wall.

Sportingly Pocketed F6c** . Climb the left hand of the 3 crack lines on the left side of a clean white wall, The start can often be damp as the crag does seep. As soon as the crack ends move right to gain a pocket and then continue on via two undercut pockets to a scoop.  A technical battle using pockets, sidepulls and crimps will eventually gain the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led)23/09/08

Sporting Crack F6b* Climbs the middle of the 3 crack lines on the clean white wall, steep and strenuous climbing up the impressive crack line to a scoop, surmount the bulge on thin holds 6 bolts protect and lead the way to a double bolt lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 21/09/08

Cracking Sport F6b **New route, climbs the right hand of the 3 crack lines on the clean white wall, steep and strenuous climbing 5 bolts protect and lead the way past some interesting formations / holds and pockets to a double bolt lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (both Led)19/09/08

Groovy Wall ( 10m further along than White Wall)

A Lot Less Longer F6c 16m New Route. Climbs the line of 5 bolts below the obvious groove 10m further along than Cracking Sport. Start by zig zaging up a crimpy wall to the 3 rd bolt finish more easily up the groove with a potentially contortionate move to gain the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Christian Roots 24/6/09 

Boom Boom Pow F6c *16m. Climbs the light blue groove and arête just right of ‘A lot less longer’. 6 Bolts lead the way to a lower off. Once established on the upper arête steep and reachy climbing gains a ‘perfect hold’ from this a number of 2 finger pockets can be used gain the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 24/6/09
Liberty Equality Fraternity F6b+ * 12m. Climb the groove to a step right onto the arête. A tricky move gains a good hold on the bulge from which a fierce pull gains a ledge and the lower off above. FA Phil Targett & Ian Lloyd-Jones (both led) 20/Jul/2009
No Shooting! F6a 15m . Climbs the line of 5 bolts up the obvious blunt / blocky arête right of Boom Boom Pow. The climbing gets more technical on the compact rock of the upper wall. WARNING LOOSE BLOCK AT TOP. Low in the grade. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 28/6/09
Send Away the Tigers F6b+ 15m New RouteClimbs the line of 6 bolts up the obvious steep groove to the right of No Shooting! The groove is steep but relatively straightforward, the upper section is more technical with some great moves on good rock. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 28/6/09
Brita HVS 5a  15m The easiest route on the Upper Tier. Climbs the obvious groove and cracks right of Send Away the Tigers (the next groove along) Climb the groove with good protection, thinner cruxy moves gain the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 20/Jul/2009

Hidden Wall:

The Seventh Wave E2 5c
The obvious crack over a small roof on the left hand side of the crag. Wires and friends protect.
FA Phil Targett Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 91 (resin bolts feb 08)
Down to the waterline F6b+
The wall to the right passing 3 bolts to a bolt belay/lower off.
FA Phil Targett Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 91 (resin bolts feb 08)
Six Blade Knife F6b+
The wall right again passing a further three bolts to a shared bolt belay/lower off
FA Phil Targett Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 91 (resin bolts feb 08)

Boys From the Black Stuff F6c
The line of 4 bolts up the steep wall on small holds to a shared bolt belay / lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts January 2008)
Puppy Power F6c
The wall 2 metres rightof Boys from the Black Stuff passing right of the overlap 4 bolts lead the way to a shared bolt belay / lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts January 2008)
Waking the Witch F6c
The wall just right of centre follow the line of 3 bolts to a shared 4th bolt with Puppy Power just above the ledge to a large thread belay or left to a shared bolt belay / lower off. FA Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts January 2008)
Hit me like a Hammer F6b
Start just left of the obvious corner, climbs through the overlaps past 3 bolts to a double bolt lower off above the ledge. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts January 2008)

Note: All of the above routes were bolted back in 1991, these Bolts had corroded badly….they have now been replaced with Marine Grade Stainless Resin Bolts. 
– Anglers Zawn Finished!
– Leaning Wall Finished!
– Hidden Wall Finished!

Craig Dwlban – Main Wall (see topo section)

Escape Route (*) 5+ 10m.
A good route which follows the big crack on the far left of the main wall. Pleasant steep climbing on positive holds and jugs throughout.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers 25/07/08

Contraflow (*) 6b 10m.
A test of wing span. Start at the base of the wall next to the block and make side pull lunges to gain the easier climbing above.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers 25/07/08

Christmas Cracker (*) 6b+
The obvious crack up the left hand side of the wall. FA (E2 5c) Tristan Peers, David Peers 26/12/2007

Hard Shoulder (*) 6a+
A direct line to share the lower-off of Central Reservation.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers, Jodie Cuff 16/03/08

Central Reservation – 6b
Straight up the main wall trending leftwards at the overhang
FA (E3 5b) Tristan Peers, David Peers Oct 2007 (1 peg)

Central Reservation – Diversion Finish – 6b
Finish rightwards to Poison Ivy Lower-off (FA Tristan Peers, David Peers, Jodie Cuff 16/03/08)

Poison Ivy – 6a
Follow the crack line near the right arete to finish over a bulge.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers, Jodie Cuff 15/05/08

Craig Dwlban – Left Wall

Dwlban Arete – HVS 4c
The arete on the left hand side of the wall. FA Tristan Peers, David Peers Oct 2007

Greaseball – E1 5b
Straight up the wall 2 metres to the right of the arete to a small overlap. Caution, some loose rock at the top. FA Tristan Peers, David Peers Oct 2007

Note: Please use only Marine Grade Resin Bolts for any new routes in this area.

Thanks to Simon @ ‘Ground Up’ for contributing towards re-equipping this area. Ian & Phil

Fedw Fawr NEW CRAG
A newly bolted venue offering short (10 metres) routes on good quality limestone. The area developed can be accessed from the National Trust Car Park @ Fedw Fawr, do not walk towards the other crag which is refered to as Fedw Fawr (this is in fact White Beach) however walk down the steps and follow the coast heading towards the Red Wharf Bay direction (Left as you look out to Sea), The crag can be accessed between 3 hours before Low Water and up to 3 hours after (6hr total) Take care on a rising tide! The walk in should take 10 minutes or so, keep going until you see a section of Black Limestone with a large undercut which rises from the sea / rock shelf. Routes are described from Left to Right. Abseil or Walk in by scrambling down. All routes top out / walk off or set up a lower off using slings etc on the large blocks on the ledge above. All routes bolted with MARINE GRADE RESIN BOLTS.

LOADS OF SCOPE FOR NEW ROUTES IN THIS AREA INCLUDING SOME VERY HARD LINES THROUGH THE UNDERCUT ROOF. ALSO HUGE POTENTIAL FOR SOME GREAT BOULDERING / TRAVERSING.

Les Vacances F6b Takes the wall left of Mr Hulo. Steep Moves up the wall just right of a seepage line, past 3 bolts. Belay / lower off large blocks on the ledge above. FA Phil Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 13/05/08

Mr Hulo F6a A reachy start gains positive pockets leading to the top, 3 bolts. Belay / lower off large blocks on the ledge above. FA Phil Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 6/05/08

Unclimbed F6c 3 bolts passing a sloping ramp line.

Sir Lobalot F6c A steep start gains the horizontal break, good holds and foot jams followed by large pocketed holds and cracks lead the way past 3 bolts. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 13/05/08

Statement of Roof F6c New route, takes a line of weakness through the large roof, 5 bolts lead the way…top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the large block on the ledge above. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 13/05/08

Scream to a Sigh F6c New route, start by pulling through the initial roof to the first bolt, continue past another bolt to gain the final and problematic roof (bolt) top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 6/05/08

Back in Black F5+ A steep start gains a shallow groove, move right out of this and climb the wall above past some large holds. 3 resin Bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 14/03/08

For those about to Rock… F6a A steep start gains a shallow groove, move right out of this and climb the blunt rib / wall above. 3 resin Bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 14/03/08

We Salute You! F6a+ The obvious line of weakness, a steep start leads to an easier groove above. 3 resin Bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 14/03/08

The Missing Link F6b New route, (start below a ledge with a rusty chain wedged in a break) to the left of Rockferry 2 bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the ledge. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 13/05/08

Rockferry F6a+ New route, balancy climbing up the middle of the wall, 3 bolts lead the way top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the ledge. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 13/05/08

Rock Monster F6b New route to the right of Rockferry start below a line of 4 bolts, pass the first by strenuously pulling on pockets to gain the break (crux) easier climbing remains, top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the ledge. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 13/05/08

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales