From the car park, walk to the right along cliff-tops to the second gate. Just left of this is a hole in the ground, through which the route comes out. Either abseil down the hole or traverse into it at low tide. Damp and dank.
8.10.01 M Crook, T Loxton
The right side of this small zawn, looking in from the sea, is a black slab. Approach by abseil.
Clutch 18m VD
A direct line up the slab starting towards its left side.
12.12.00 L Griffin, R Greenal
Grab 18m VD R
A line based on a groove to the right. 12.12.00 L Griffin, R Greenall
On the left side of the zawn, more or less opposite Clutch, is a prominent left-facing right-angled corner containing a large crack.
Gladrags 12m HS R
Climb the corner direct with an awkward layback move low down, where the crack is wide. 13.9.08 L Griffin
To the left a short crack leads to the crest of the ridge forming the left side (looking in) of the dawn
Satchel 15m MS
Climb the thin crack rather awkwardly to the ridge and then the right edge of the steep but easy wall above.
12.12.00 L Griffin, R Greenall
Sarff 23m D R
The ridge forming the left edge of the zawn. Start at sea level (reaching this point is as hard as doing the climb). Finish up the centre of the short wall left of Satchel.
13.9.08 L Griffin
Left of Sarff and starting from a good ledge is an off-vertical black wall, 9 to 11 metres high. It is massively featured and could be climbed almost anywhere. However, there are three obvious cracklines. Tote (11m D R ) is the left-hand and longest crack, which slants to the right, and is the longest. Hobo (9m D R ) is the central crack. Mini (9m D R ) is the right-hand crack. All 13.9.08 L Griffin
Tywyn Maen Melyn Area
About 100 metres north of St Mary’s Well is a small water-filled zawn (even at low tide) with two large yellow blocks in the corner. The following climb is on the north wall of the zawn and is approached by scrambling down the opposite side of the headland from Trwyn Maen Melyn.
Rumblin’ Tumblin’ 30m D
1 15m Traverse into the zawn at the high tide mark and belay in a recess of reddish-coloured rocks.
2 15m Climb the slab above.
20.8.02 D Lear, N Beaumon
Parwyd and Pen y Cil
At the time of writing, there was a sign up saying ‘No unauthorized vehicles’ at the car parking area. It is not known whether this applies to the parking or to driving further up the track.
Revised description from the car parking area: continue along the track, going through a gate, for about 500 metres to a stile (do not go over the obvious stile over the wall on the left after 50 metres or so). Cross this, and turn left along the coast path. Follow the coast path, through another gate, to a second stile, after which the path leads onto the top of the Pen y Cil headland. Parwyd lies down to the right. For Pen y Cil, descend to the grassy platform overlooking the southern tip of the headland.
Mynydd Penarfynydd (Rhiw Area)
The following directions supersede the approach directions for Bytilith given in the 2002 guidebook. Mynydd Penarfynydd is the massive headland bounding Hell’s Mouth to the west. It is owned by the National Trust. Drive to the NT farm at Penarfynydd (OS Ref 219 267); if anyone is there, ask permission to park; otherwise just park so as not to cause any obstruction.
Bytilith -OS Ref 224 263
For Bytilith head left (east) along the path behind the farmyard.
Cross a stile, and then descend the slope to a small cove and
point (marked ‘cave’ on the map). It is possible to climb down the
end of the point and traverse to the boulders exposed below the
cliff at low tide, but easier to abseil. The dominant feature of the crag is an overhanging prow rising above a broken ramp (which gives a way up the cliff at HS).
The rock is metamorphosed sandstone, sometimes snappy but quite hard and strong in the main.
Pearl Fisher 37m E5 6a R
A sensational line up the crest of the impending buttress. At low tide, start from the boulders; at high tide, abseil down and belay at the base of the ramp. From the start of the buttress proper, move up right for a short way and then traverse left across a steep orange wall to large holds. Gain the shallow cracks on the left, and climb steeply past a hollow block (light touch) to a welcome resting ledge. Launch around the arête to another hollow block; then climb the tricky final arête to a massive nest and easier ground. Belay block (long tape) higher up.
12.11.03 P Littlejohn, S Sustad
Rugged Rocks and The Syncline OS Ref 217 257
From the NT farm turn right (south-west) along the path behind the farmyard until the path reaches the coast and rounds the tip of the headland. The first crags, Rugged Rocks, are huge jumbled slabs of rough weathered sandstone. It is possible to scramble to the base of the main mass from either side, and there are no nesting restrictions. Beyond Rugged Rocks is the Syncline, a steeply-dipping band of lighter-coloured rock with several big overhangs. It is only slightly tidal at its lowest end. Descend cautiously on a slight rib of grass and rock and traverse to the base of the cliff (where there are nesting restrictions).
Rascals 42m E1
The biggest cliff of Rugged Rocks is in two slabby tiers. Start below the obvious crack in the lower tier.
1 24m 5b Follow the crack then move right and up to a large ledge.
2 18m 5a Move right and take the best line on the upper slab (thin cracks).
4.04 P Littlejohn, S Sustad
Choughed 21m E2 5c
Take the slanting crack in the right-hand buttress, breaking right then left to finish. 4.03 S Sustad, P Littlejohn
Nesting restriction 1 April to 31 July.
Last Chance Saloon 18m E3 6a R
An exciting first excursion onto the main part of the cliff. Start beneath the wall left of all the overhangs. Climb to the base of a shallow groove near the edge of the main face. Traverse right to gain a thin crack at an orange patch, and follow the rightward-trending weakness to the top.
24.3.04 P Littlejohn, S Sustad (climbed after failing on just about every other line on the crag!