The Skyline Buttress dominates the quarry and has some great routes on it. It has a couple of great long sports routes on it, however other sports routes claimed were merely retro bolts routes by Joe Brown, who has since removed the bolts. This occurred due in part to a void in information in those routes. Some of the bolts have been damaged by rock fall on the Plastic Soldier slab, although it is still climbable in it present state.
Just as you walk round the corner, off the jagged boulders.The left hand crack of the first slab, just before the main buttress.Good Afternoon Constable VS 4c 27m
The crack to the right of previous.
Dolmen HVS 5a 40m
Just to the right is a r/wards slanting stepped groove with a peg, it joins the next route Menhir, for the top twenty feet.
Menhir VS 4c 40m
The left slanting groove running the full hieght of the buttress.
Antiquity E1 5a. 40m.
The pegs were replaced with bolts. First ascentionist Joe Brown has removed the bolts and replaced the pegs.
Not the best HVS in the quarries, not even close. Worth a star and E1.
(cleaned the traverse to the first bolt, now a little bit less nervie!) 10/09.
Antiquity Direct E1 5a. 40m. (Variation Start)
Start as for “The Skyline Club” clipping the 2 bolts to the first bolt of “Antiquity”, finish up the line of “Antiquity”.
Gives pleasant, bold and thin (in parts) climbing, on a natural line.
F.A. Scott Swalling, Nicola Jordan. 23/10/2011.
The Skyline Club, E2 5b/c S 45m.
Start just left of Act Naturaly, climb the blunt rib/arete, past the first two bolts until you get to the first bolt of Antiquity.climb up and right , following a line towards the upper hanging arete. climb direct over the roof, and mantle up to the bolt,(crux), and go straight up past the next two bolts to a top out, and double bolt belay. brilliant positions, and excellent climbing!!!
F.A. CHRIS DAVIES, PHIL TARGETT. 01/10/09.
p.s. if you dont do the roof direct, you dont get the full tick!
This route effected Joe Brown’s Antiquity, he removed any bolts that affected that route. As such the route may or may not be climbable in the present state.
Act Naturally VS 4c 40m.
The big stepped in the middle r/wards slanting groove in the middle of the main wall, good climbing reasonable gear, well worth the effort of the walk up!
Another big safe climb with atmos! climbs the wall to the left of Dr Stranglove, via a weaving line of ten bolts. climb Act Naturally to the top of first ramp and then follow the bolts to a top out! belay off two bolts.
F.A. CHRIS DAVIES, I.LLOYD-JONES.16/06/09.Ronald Reagan meets Dr Strangelove E2 5b 40m
The obvious line up the middle of the main wall. Climb the scoop and groove 3m to the right of Act Naturally, untill you reach the halfway ledge, then follow the big crackline to the top, quite loose in places, but that does not detract from a great adventure!
Lindy Lou HVS 5a 40m
Left of the leaning tower thats collapsed onto the main wall, is a shallow groove, climb this to the halfway ledge, then follow the sort of grooved arete to the right of Act Naturally, NOT OFTEN DONE,but i`m sure it would clean up with a bit of traffic, not sure of how acurate the grade is?
Climbs the large Slab between Lindy Lou and Plastic Soldier, 16 bolts lead the way, belay on the large flake. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Chris Davies (both lead) 16/6/09 Bolt Belay added on flat slate block (as above)
Climbs the large slab left of Lindy Lou, 13 bolts lead the way, belay on the large flake .FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett, Sam Beesley (all Lead) 15/04/09 Bolt Belay added on flat slate block + damaged bolt replaced (16/08/09).The Dreaming E1 5b 40m
To the right of Clash, is a very dirty hanging grove/slab, climb this until you reach the left slanting crack, that crosses both previous routes an joins the top of Lindy Lou. `NOT BEEN DONE FOR A LONG TIME`, needs a clean!
Mad Dog of the West HVS 5a.
New belay bolt added on back wall. What a brilliant route: Yosemite comes to Llanberis!
The Methane Monster E1 5b 17m
On the left of Billy Two Tokes buttress is a hanging crack, follow it untill a swing right to join the upper arete. New bolt belay.(04/07)
Billy Two Tokes 17m
The wall round to the right of previous, past a peg and a bolt to a new bolt belay, dirty at the bottom!
Harri Bach Llanrug F6a 18m New Route. Climbs the wall to the left of ‘Put it on the Slate Waiter’ on the far end of Skyline Level. Start by the obvious Flake Crack and follow the line of 6 bolts to a lower off. Named after my Great Grandfather who spent 54 years of his life working as a Quarryman in the Dinorwic Quarries. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Chris Davies (Both Lead) 12/11/09
Rock Yoga F7a* 18m Climbs the line of 6 bolts between Harri Bach Llanrug and Put it on the Slate Waiter. Expect thin holds and rock overs with a high stepping and Yoga like crux sequence. Traverse up and left at the top to the Harri Bach llanrug Lower Off. Fa Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness (both lead) 10/4/11
Toe be or not Toe be F7b 12m New Route Climbs the clean slab to the right of ‘Put it on the slate waiter’. Execute a ‘Poetry Pink’ style mantle-shelf to get established on the slab, easier climbing leads to the stopper ‘Time Bandit’ / ‘Menai Vice’ like crux (possibly British 6c) by the fourth bolt. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 21/10/09