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Holyhead Mountain | North Wales Climbs

Holyhead Mountain

photo
Streaky Desroy enjoying Holyhead Mountain. Photo Jethro Kiernan

Alcove

Teaser VS **

Pleasant Surprise HS **

New Boots and Panties S **

Yellow Wall
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Hot Lips E5 6b 30m
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King Bee Crack *** HVS 5a
Steep, pumpy and rather challenging for the grade.
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Snakebite Wall * 37m E4 6a 37m.

A fine eliminate giving bold, thin wall climbing linking KBC and Penny.
From just right of KBC climb a short left slanting crack for 3 metres. A long stretch right via a flat handhold gives access to a series of pockets and edges leading to a peg. Continue slightly rightwards to join Penny for the final pump!
K. Neal and M. Gresham, 10/10/1986.
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Trouser Snake E4/5 6a

A variation to Snakebite Wall. From hollow flakes down and left of Penny, crimp up the wall leftwards to join Snakebite Wall after its rightwards traverse. Follow this to just before it joins King Bee Crack, arrange gear. Traverse up and right to a poor tied off peg then up to a good jug/spike, just left of Final Solution. Ignore thoughts of escape into Final Solution, instead head up and left to finish via a left facing groove and easy-peesy slab. Tim Neill, Toby Keep. (22/6/03).

Penny ** E4 6a

Sai Dancing * E3 6b
Start just right of Penny. Climb the wall directly to a ledge and junction with Final Solution. Follow this for a few moves up the crack (peg) until it is possible to pull out right onto the headwall using undercuts and small edges. Full on!! Your heading for the crack on the R which has a hidden peg at its top. From the 2nd peg, pull over on to a slab and trend back L to an interesting groove (perplexing). Climb the groove and bulge above to belay well back.

Trherh Arête E6 6a
Obvious arête (and slab above), right of Sai Dancing.

Mel Griffiths, M.Turner. (6/98).

Final Solution ** E3 5c
The higher you go – The harder it gets!

Twilight Zone

The Electric Spanking of War Babies

The Electric Lady Charlotte E3 5c 27m.
The diagonal line running leftwards out of Patience, crossing The Electric Spanking… near the top.A bit loose in places.
Rich Parry, Mike Gresham. (8/96).

Patience

Don’t join the Army Frank! E3 6a
On the right side of the main area, takes the superb arête right of Patience. Gain the arête from the right and reach around for an obvious thread on the left wall. Climb the right side of the arête and pull right into a niche. Continue up until a runner can be placed in the crack on the right (Drying Out). Rock over left to a dinky slab finish. P.S. Don’t do it Frank. P.P.S. He didn’t, but did join the TA/VR for 20 years & has finally left….alive!
Simon Bartram, Barrie (James) Barrett. (31/7/90).

Drying Out

QUARTZ WALL

 
The Arrow E3 5c 25m.
This takes a slab with an overhanging section at half height. Sustained for approximately 5 metres.
G.Mitchell, J.Loveridge. (1999).
Bad Influence E3 5c 25m
Start at the foot of the slab between Black and Tan, and Breaking the Barrier. Climb the slab via a faint white streak (difficult). Continue in the same line to stand on two large foot holds. Traverse right to gain the thin crack, which is climbed to the top.
C.Greatwich, C.Stephenson, L.A.Dutton. (26/7/91).(The thin crack was climbed as a direct finish to Breaking the Barrier (E2 5c, 1989) by John Donnely).
Point Taken E2 5c
Start as for Breaking the Barrier. Climb to the left of the cracks on Breaking the Barrier to a good crack. Follow a vague groove (R.P’s protect) and join Black and Tan on the left. Traverse right to the cracks splitting the headwall, left of the finish to Breaking the Barrier, and finish up there. (A new route has been reported taking this finish. Point Taken is independent and left of this).

J.Hope, K.Niel. (7/91).

Relief E2 5c 26m.
An enjoyable and worthwhile eliminate which follows the arete just right of Echoes.
Climb the crack of Bruvvers for three metres then balance left on reasonable footholds to gain the arete. Follow its slabby left hand side till tricky moves rightwards gain a flake and the top.

Dreaming of Home – worth E1.Time to Reflect worth E2 5c?

Scissorhands E1 5b
Up the gully from Tempest is a blunt undercut arête, with a crack that stops at 6m.
N.Ashton. (29/8/91).

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales