Streaky Desroy enjoying Holyhead Mountain. Photo Jethro Kiernan
Teaser VS **
Pleasant Surprise HS **
New Boots and Panties S **
Hot Lips E5 6b 30m
King Bee Crack *** HVS 5a
Steep, pumpy and rather challenging for the grade.
Snakebite Wall * 37m E4 6a 37m.
From just right of KBC climb a short left slanting crack for 3 metres. A long stretch right via a flat handhold gives access to a series of pockets and edges leading to a peg. Continue slightly rightwards to join Penny for the final pump!
K. Neal and M. Gresham, 10/10/1986.
Trouser Snake E4/5 6a
A variation to Snakebite Wall. From hollow flakes down and left of Penny, crimp up the wall leftwards to join Snakebite Wall after its rightwards traverse. Follow this to just before it joins King Bee Crack, arrange gear. Traverse up and right to a poor tied off peg then up to a good jug/spike, just left of Final Solution. Ignore thoughts of escape into Final Solution, instead head up and left to finish via a left facing groove and easy-peesy slab. Tim Neill, Toby Keep. (22/6/03).
Penny ** E4 6a
Sai Dancing * E3 6b
Start just right of Penny. Climb the wall directly to a ledge and junction with Final Solution. Follow this for a few moves up the crack (peg) until it is possible to pull out right onto the headwall using undercuts and small edges. Full on!! Your heading for the crack on the R which has a hidden peg at its top. From the 2nd peg, pull over on to a slab and trend back L to an interesting groove (perplexing). Climb the groove and bulge above to belay well back.
Mel Griffiths, M.Turner. (6/98).
Final Solution ** E3 5c
The higher you go – The harder it gets!
The Electric Spanking of War Babies
J.Hope, K.Niel. (7/91).
Relief E2 5c 26m.
An enjoyable and worthwhile eliminate which follows the arete just right of Echoes.
Climb the crack of Bruvvers for three metres then balance left on reasonable footholds to gain the arete. Follow its slabby left hand side till tricky moves rightwards gain a flake and the top.
Dreaming of Home – worth E1.Time to Reflect worth E2 5c?