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Oak over Buttress | North Wales Climbs

Oak over Buttress

* Knell for a Jackdaw Severe
Cleaned. A left -hand variation on first pitch ignores the rightwards moves and goes straight upto a good flake, A good pitch. The normal way is clean and OK now, just becareful which bit of the tree you pull on! Run pitches 1 and 2 together, and 3 and 4.
** Hedera HVS 5a, 5aAlternative start to Hedera/Oakover
Clean, best done in one pitch, just follow the arching corner, or try **Headera, pull through cracks and roofs above belay tree at HVS to lower off.
Easter weekend on Hedera
* Oakover
 VS 4c
Clean, start one metre right of Hedera and climb slab for 5 metres before rejoining main crack line of Hedera TAWNY OWL NESTING IN TREE, CHICKS THERE 26.04.08
** Bloodsucker E2 5c
Clean
** Heartline E3 5c
Clean

Axeover Area
**Axeover VS 4c
An excellent line. Start as for Axeminster alternative start. Follow snaking groove to tenuous pull through small roof immediately right of the tree near the top.
* FFalabalam VS 4c (if tree avoided at top!)
Follow Axeminster until it is possible to climb its left wall from a spike. When behind the tree near the top make exciting moves left to finish(without using the tree!)
Axeminster V.Diff
Clean, Can be done in one pitch or take a semi-hanging belay on tree at 25 metres.
* Föhn H. Severe
Overhanging branches removed
* Chinook H. Severe
Overhanging branches removed. might feel like VS on the lead.

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales