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North Coast | North Wales Climbs

North Coast

Gurn Ddu

Mystified R
Start below the obvious bay in the middle of the right-hand of the Gurn Ddu quarries.
8.3.02 R Kay, E Williams

Nesting restriction 1 April to 31 July.

Trwyn y Tal – Shale City

Salad Dodger Direct 45m E5 5c
The obvious slabby corner right of Ugly. A boulder-problem start on the left (crux) gains the corner. Climb this to a particularly fine top-out. Very loose and dangerous. The first ascent comment ‘Really good route – should become popular’ is humour most dark. 1.1.04 W Perrin, M Perrier

Craig Ddu

Porg’s Delight 37m E1 5b
Climbs the rib avoided by Mo’s Nightmare. Belay on the right as for Just the Ticket. Traverse left and climb to the overhangs guarding the rib. Steep moves gain the shelf on the edge above a jammed block. Follow the crest above to a notch, after which easier ground leads to belays in the heather.
31.5.08 S Sustad, Ms R Abram, P Littlejohn

Wall of Plenty 34m E1 5a
Enjoyable climbing up the open face right of Just The Ticket. Belay as for that route, at a small ash tree about level with the top of the fin, below a grey rib. Gain the rib from the left and climb it to a ledge (as for Just The Ticket). Move right and climb straight up the wall via some shallow scoops to the top. Spike belay in the heather slope.
1.5.08 P Littlejohn, Ms R Abram, S Sustad

Craig y Llam

The area is now an SSSI, and access to Fantan B by driving down the track is not permitted. Park at the top near a farm.

Nesting restrictions apply from 1 February to 31 July.

Fantan B Alternative Finish 30m 5a R
Adds excitement and more good climbing. Halfway up pitch 6, rather than finishing up the easy arête, traverse right into the centre of the wall and finish directly via a little groove.
27.11.07 P Littlejohn, D Williams

Carreg Lefain

Coprolalia upgraded to E2 5c.

Porth Iago

The Godless Lowlife XS

From car park walk right along cliff tops to second gate, just left of this is a hole in the ground through which the route comes out. Either ab down hole or traverse into it at low tide. Damp and Dank.
08/10/2001 Martin Crook, T Loxton

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales