Zippy’s Level

Again a rather forgotten level with few easy lines on it. The harder sport routes make reasonable head points but many suffer from sharp and painful holds.

Jepp Knave 7b. ** New route
The first line on the steep wall as you enter the level. A hard rockover leftwards passing the first bolt leads to good holds. Layaway up the steep rib to the obvious sloper. Another couple of difficult moves allow you to stand on this to gain the ledge. The belay awaits above. 5 bolts to a resin lower off. The middle section is sustained.
FA Phil Targett and Chris Davies 28/10/09

PROJECT – I LLoyd Jones.

Last Chance for a Slow Dance E3 5b
The cleaned flake line on the r/hand side of the steep wall. Climb direct to the start of the flake line and climb this with improving gear to a blunt spike at its apex. From here traverse right into the bay and finish as for …and a pen please. Mark Dicken unsec. 2/11/07.

In on the Kill Taker E4/5 6b
Starting up last chance for a slow dance to the blunt spike. Stand on it and lean out for the bolt. Traverse past onto the overlap and straight up the cleaned holds to the top. opportunity for 20 odd feet of cleanish air if messed up.
M Dicken M. Reeves 8/8/08

The Beanstalk F7a . ** New route.
a brill line with three distinct dificult sections. Start about 10m to the right of LCFASD,move up and right passing the first two bolts to a jug, and the third bolt, move left and up to the fourth(crux), a sling placement on LCFASD, if you want it, then pass the fifth bolt on the way to the double bolt lower off. really nice climbing!!
Chris Davies, Phil Targett, 07/10/09.

And a pen please HVS 5a
Right facing corner to the right of previous route.

Rastaman vibration E1 5c
bolt replaced and one added (orig a peg) block trundled. 10/07#

Razorback HVS 5a
Obvious line to the right of R/V.

Putting on Ayres E4 6c bolts replaced 10/07

Feeling Rusty? F6a+ New Route.
Climbs the slab by the rusty streak next to Putting on Ayres. 5 Bolts lead to a bolt lower off.
FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Chris Davies (Both Lead) 24/09/09

Zippies 1st acid trip E1 5b bolt replaced 10/07

Your Ma E1 5c – Obvious crack in the corner right of Zippy’s first acid trip. Must have been climbed before but I haven’t seen any info on it. Be careful topping out, as there are several bits of rock that could fall down to your belayer. Great route though.
Conor Murphy, Paul Collins 13 March 2013

. The wall left of Ziplock. lower off in place. Nice to get on a new project after my protracted faffing on the last one! cheers , Phil.
Ziplock F7b ** New Route.
Climbs a line of 7 bolts (to a lower off) on the wall right of ‘Zippies First Acid Trip’. A good steep sports climb similar in style to some of the Sports Routes on Rainbow Walls.
FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 17/9/09

Indiana Jasmine And The Topple of Doom! HVS 5a / F5+* New route.
Wall and arete about 15 ft round to the right of ziplock. nice solid climbing past three slightly spaced bolts, to a top out. sling and metal post belays are fairly obvious!
FA. Chris Davies and Ian LLoyd Jones,(both lead). 24/09/09.

Second chance VS 4b

Crossed eyed Tammy HVS 5a

The next routes lye further along this level, about 50 yards, where you will arrive at a fine steep wall with a hand crack up the middle, `The Samba Dance`.

Reserrection Shuffle E4 6b/7a
Starts about four feet right of the left arete, move up and right towards an obvious hold higher up the wall, then towards the ledge, follow finger/hand crack in wall above, The direct start has been done, possibly 6c/7a
Andy Woodward, L.Dutton, 1987.

The Samba Dance E2 5c
The obvious hand crack to the right of previous route. good.

PROJECT – I LLoyd Jones.

De Nouement 7a/7a+*
Takes second line of bolts to the right of (samba drum) and just left of the corner.
Nice climbing up the line of 6 bolts to a double resin lower off. Hard moves past the second and fifth bolts add the spice.
F.A. Phil Targett and Owen Jones. 08/10/09.

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales