Trinity House Walls

This is the area between Skull Zawn and Thunderbird Zawn. It is possible to sea level traverse this whole area at low and possibly mid tide. The routes are described north to south. Best reached by abseil from a block in the grass above Rapping, followed by an easy traverse left to non-tidal ledges beneath the routes. The base of the easiest abseil line is effected by the tide although it is also possible to abseil directly to the non-tidal ledges.
100 metres further left (north) from Trinity House Wall, a cliff comes down at right angles. In its upper half, it has wide cracks rising rightwards to the hillside. Below these are flaky overhangs and lower still are three diagonal cracks, which reach down to ledges above high tide.

Môr Mochyn 
AKA Sea Pig E3 50m
A great first pitch.
1 25m. 5c. Start on the ledge. Follow a narrow ramp for 5 metres to an overlap and go rightwards past this and onto the wall. Use the upper and middle cracks to climb up to the roof, all pleasant and well protected. Climb upward to a higher flake line and right to the arête. Using an undercling pinch, a sidepull and a groin strain, to reach a belay on the face, shared with an irate Razor Bill.
2 25m. 5b. Wide chimney cracks lead rightwards, the rock and protection getting progressively worse, until reaching a rising slab on the right. Step across to the slab and tiptoe up it to grass. Belay in a corner, 5 metres further up.
Ian Wilson, P. Thomas, Neil Pamment (1994). Rediscovered as Five Bellies by Glenda Huxter and Howard Jones 1997.

Mochyn Bach E4 6a
Tackles the obvious finger crack in the south facing facet and pulls through the roof with difficulty before joining the top of Môr Mochyn.
George Smith and Rick Potter 2013.

Brain in a Vat E2 5b
A pleasant and well protected route climbing the corner right of Mor Mochyn.
P1 25m To the right of Mor Mochyn lies a right facing corner running the length of the cliff. Climb this corner easily to a grassy ledge. Belay on the right in the chimney on a good flake.
P2 5b 25m Step back into the corner. Climb this on its left wall, sustained with good protection until steep moves reach the twin breaks of Mor Mochyn. Follow this rightwards to the top.
Adam Wainwright and Ric Potter May 2012.

Trinity House Walls - Gogarth
Adam Wainwright on the second pitch of Brain in a Vat. Photo Ric Potter.
The remaining routes are on Trinity House Walls proper then carrying on south into Thunderbird Zawn.
Aussie Rules VS 4c 30m
Start at the crack in the black slab where the easy ledges running north from Trinity House Walls stop at a ‘bad step’, below an obvious chimney. Follow the crack in the black slab easily for 10m, followed by the chimney above with interest to exit left. Belay well back.
Conrad Wasbrough, Andy Newton 2005.
Rediscovered as Superthunderstingcar by A. Wainwright, G. Desroy. (21.05.07).

The next routes begin immediately right of the chimney but are reached by scrambling up the black slab on the right to belays beneath the routes proper.

Sam Shore E1 5b 12m
A good route. The narrow right facing corner 3m right of Aussie Rules is climbed, protected by small wires, to a steeper corner leading to an easy exit into the grass.
A. Wainwright and J. Bonnet, 10/06/07.

Ray Mears V Diff 8m
Start beneath the smallest part of the cliff under a black open groove. Climb the groove to a belay ledge. Scramble off into the grass.
J. Bonnet and A. Wainwright, 10/06/07.

Troy Tempest Severe 12m
The crackline immediately right of Ray Mears and 3m left of Oink has a right facing corner at its base. Enter this “with awe” (G. Desroy, 2007) and follow the crackline to easy ground. Belay well back.
G. Desroy, A. Wainwright, 04.06.07.

Oink HVS 4c 15m
Start 3m left of Aqua Marina below the next crackline. Follow the crack to a small quartz ledge. Step right and climb the slab to the right of the crackline to a hidden juggy diagonal crack. Follow this left back into the corner and climb this to easy ground. Belay well back.
A. Wainwright and G. Desroy, 04.06.07.

Aqua Marina E2 5b 18m
The next crackline left of El Presidente, at the edge of the steep wall. Start 3 metres left of El Presidente near the top of a corner on the slab. Step off the slab and pull rightwards through the bulge into a groove. Follow this left into the continuation corner. Move up this and step out right to finish onto steep grass and the belay above.
G. Desroy and A. Wainwright, 21.05.07.

El Presidente E5 6b 27m
The left hand overhanging thin crack of the wall, left of Idlevice. 1 blue peg low down and 1 angle peg at 10 metres. Strenuous and unnerving, but an ace route.
Paul Prichard and George Smith, 29/7/96.

Idlevice E5 6b 40m
Climbs the soaring crack, left of Scud, direct to a good ledge.
Mike Twid Turner, August 1991.

Scud 30m E3 5c/6a
Obvious groove/corner line left of The Hood. Climb groove/corner until forced onto arête. Shoot up this to belay.
Ian (Wraith) Wilson, Yob, Shagger, Summer 1991.

Karaoke Bar 30m E6 6b
The wall right of Scud. Climb the first crack past a peg, rest. Attack the twin cracks and pull over onto a slab (interesting). Top out on a good ledge.
Mike Twid Turner, August 1991.

Friend or Anenome E4 6a 35m
As for The Hood to the top of the continuation groove. Move left at the hanging arête and climb directly to the top. Nice positions.
Owain Jones and Mike Twid Turner (on-sight), 29/7/91.

The Hood E2
This route lies about 200m to the left of The Man From Uncle at an obvious corner above a steep crack (groove capped by a small roof).
1 18m. 5c. Gain the square cut groove, go over a bulge, and up to the roof, good gear. Move out awkwardly right to gain the continuation groove and go up to below the top corner.
2 18m. 5b. Climb the corner on very South Stack rock, to the top. Belay up on the grass.
Andy Newton, Ian (Wraith) Wilson (AL),14/5/91.

Walking the Plankton E5 6a 35m
The fine hanging corner, right of The Hood. Climb the obvious corner to its top. Move right to beneath corner, runners in break. Gain corner by scary rising traverse right to get lodged in the groove. Climb this (cam # 1 & peg) to roof exit left.
Owain Jones and Andy Farnell, 2/8/91.

International Rescue HVS 5b 35m
Start halfway between The Hood and Mr Waverley. Climb the corner to gain good holds at the base of a wide blind crack. Awkward moves gain a good ledge (cam 4). Move right and up an overlap and thin slab to gain good holds again. Move 4m right to join Mr Waverley. Climb 3m up this then go left up a short slab (possible belay) to finish by climbing onto the hanging arête in a good position. Belay well back, large cams.
Andey Newton and Jim Wyllie, 20/6/91.

Mr Waverley HVS 5a 40m
The wall right of The Hood contains a number of cracks and grooves. Climb the 2nd crack line right of The Hood pleasantly to reach a good ledge, possible belay, good runners on the left. Finish up weird rock in a good position.
Andy Newton, Stevie Haston, Laurence Gouault, 13/6/91.

Even Cowgirls get the Blues HVS
Climbs the most continuous crack, right of Mr Waverley.
1 25m. 5b. Climb the crack, past a hard move at half height, to a ledge below the final bulges.
2 10m. 4c. Go leftwards through the bulges on good holds to finish up a short groove type thing. Belay, gear on the left.
Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley (AL), Liz Wade, 26/7/91.

Start Me Up HVS 5a 47m
The line starting some 3 metres right of Even Cowgirls get the Blues.
1 34m. 5a. Go over bulges to belay 3 metres below the top of the corner of Parker.
2 13m. 4b. Climb up the corner and move left then up. Step across to a belay.
Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley (AL), 7/8/91.

Parker E2/3 5c 47m
Right of Start Me Up and left of the landing from the abseil is a black, white streaked, corner. Climb the left arête of the corner, hard for the short, and continue to the top in the obvious continuation corner line, rather more easily.
Leigh McGinley, Andy Newton, 7/8/91.

Catch a Fire E1 5b 43m
4 metres right of the black corner, take the crack line to the small roof at 6m. Pull rightwards through this and carry on up, over bulges, in the same line to exit around about the abseil boulder.
Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley, 7/8/91.

Rapping VS 4b 43m
Climb the groove right of the abseil landing and trending slightly left. Climb the abseil line to the boulder over various bulges and ledges.
Leigh McGinley (solo), 26/7/91.


Rock Climbing Information for North Wales