Left Hand Red Walls

This venue is subject to a seasonal restriction due to nesting birds from the 1st February to the 31st July. The following day is known locally as ‘The glorious first’. Breaking this ban will seriously affect access to the entire area. For more details visit THE BMC REGIONAL ACCESS DATABASE.

Left Hand Red Walls - Gogarth

Vena Cava 21m Very Severe 4c (R)
Really only an escape, but pleasant all the same. Start left of the arête. Follow the left-hand side of the arête, then step left to finish up a slight corner.

BSB E1 (R)
The left hand wall escape route start at the peak of promontory.
Paul Barbier & Ian McNeill 1991.
Auricle 105m HVS (R)
A rather scrappy route which makes the best of the LHS of LH Red Wall. Scramble down the grassy ramp until about 12m above the sea.
1 40m 4c. Descend a slab and mantelshelf across an overhang. Continue traversing to the left to reach the obvious corner.
20m 4c. Climb the corner to a good ledge.
15m 4c. Traverse right into an obvious break and climb this to reach the upper part of the grass ramp.
30m 4c. A few feet right of the arete is an obvious steep loose break. Climb this direct over a bulge to the top.
Joe Brown, BA Fuller, Sep 1967 p4 climbed previously by Joe Brown and JV Anthoine.
Variation: Alt Finish E1 (R)
4a 30m 5a. From the bulge, move right to a broken groove. Up this and the loose corner above.
D Durkan 14 Oct 1970.
The Horn of Plenty HVS (R)
The slabby wall between Auricle and Ceefax. 
80ft 5a. Black groove and bubbly wall to belay ledge of Ceefax.
100ft 4c. Move left and climb diagonally left to corner.
Paul Pritchard, Gwion Hughes on-sight solo, 1 Aug 1988.
Ceefax 55m HVS (R)
Good. Descend as for the approach to Auricle to an obvious rift/chimney.
80ft 4c. Step across onto ramp (crux). Up ramp to top and straight up wall above to a corner. Traverse left and belay in a groove.
100ft 4c. Step left and up white stain (crux). Straight up wall above on some dubious crumbly rock. Finish on ramp below LH Red Wall.
Paul Barbier, Paul Pritchard AL on-sight on sh!te, 16 Oct 1986. 
Appears to have been so named because the first ascentionists confused Auricle with Oracle.
Alligator 40m E2 5b (R)
This route starts at the obvious dirty corner at the top of the grassy ramp at the same place as Cannibal and there is a peg there about 2ft from ground level. There are about 6 big pegs on the route but they are all in fairly poor condition. Fairly serious, and a good introduction to this type of climbing, starting at the foot of a prominent crack, at the top of the grassy ramp, about halfway between the top pitch of Auricle, and Left Hand Red Wall. Climb the corner, poor peg, to a ledge below an overlap. Move left, ascend a shallow groove past a peg, and trend slightly right on large loose holds to a deep break. Finish up the difficult crack, three metres right of the Auricle Alternative Finish.
Al Evans, Paul Williams, Jim Moran, Ben Wintringham 6 Aug 1978.
E4 5c 44m (R)
Not so much of a man eater now but still a bold and frightening proposition. Start at the corner, near a prominent crack at the top of the grassy ramp. A bold traverse out right leads to a peg of sorts just above an overhang, continue round into a loose groove with some uninspiring spikes, continue up and exit out left onto more solid wall, where a peg resides, it is possible to assess the pegs condition, as you can easily see it all in the placement! Shake up the wall to reach the safety of the break, traversing left and right to arrange as much gear as possible. The line lies up the bubbly wall above to an obscured left facing groove. Climb this to belly flop over the top with much relief.
Jim Moran, Al Evans, Paul Williams, Ben Wintringham 6 Aug 1978.
Variation: Cannibal Direct Start E5 6a (R)
Gain the peg direct up the through the rotten overlap.
Trevor Hodgson, Paul Pritchard, 11 Oct 1986.
Variation: Cannibal Direct Finish 45m E5 5c (R)
From the final break, step right and climb straight up between Schittlegruber and Cannibal.
Mick Pointon 1993
Variation: Cannibal with the Schittlegruber Gibbers finish E4 5c (R)
From the break shuffle right to the large left facing corner of Schittlegruber, climb this to where Schittlegruber swings out right at the roof, and wobble out left avoiding the difficulty, but with extra rope drag.
Schittlegruber 56m E5 (R)
A very fine route, with a serious first pitch and strenuous top pitch. Start eight metres up left from Left-Hand Red Wall, at a vegetated groove.
1 28m. 5c. Climb the vegetated groove to join Left-Hand Red Wall at the small roof. Swing immediately left to a hollow flake. Climb this, and the wall above, until level with the Left-Hand Red Wall belay. Traverse right to belay.
2 28m. 6b. Go diagonally up left to an overlap, and climb strenuously on good rock to a ledge on the left, below a monster groove. Ascend the groove, in a wild position, to swing right at its end on to the rug to finish.
Paul Pritchard, Nick Harms. Second pitch climbed on 16 Aug 1986, first pitch added later in 1986.
Left-Hand Red Wall 62m E3 (R)
Two good contrasting pitches: the first, being serious on poor rock, followed by a more technical compact second pitch. Start by a shallow groove, a few meters above the main slanting overlap on this side of the wall.
1 25m. 5c. Ascend the groove on the left, to the roof, then go right onto a slab, and move into a shallow rounded groove. A hard section leads to a belay on a good ledge.
2 37m. 5c. Step right, and climb a flake crack to a small ledge. Traverse right, peg, into a shallow niche, climb a diagonal crack above, then go straight up the wall to the top.
Joe Brown, Pete Crew (AL) 11 June 1967. FFA Henry Barber, 1976.
Howell the Trowel 48m E7 (R)
1. 25m 5c. Follow Left Hand Red Wall p1 to the belay.
2. 23m 6c.Climb the wall left of Mein Kampf. Climb up towards the peg and make a hard move up a smooth wall to another peg. Committing moves up thin holds eventually lead to the top and cakes.
Mike Twid Turner and Al George 1991. Named after a trowel made by Al George and a very much howling Paul Jenkins after a night listening to the Dukes.
Mein Kampf 46m E5 (R)
Another loose and dirty start is followed by tricky, more solid climbing. Start as for Left Hand Red Wall.
1 23m. 5c. Climb up, as for Left Hand Red Wall, until a foot-traverse, on a flake about five metres up, leads rightwards into a depression of white (eek!) rock. Move right into a groove, and climb it to until a step left gains the belay of Left Hand Red Wall. 
2 23m. 6a. Climb a flake crack, as for Left Hand Red Wall, then move left onto a small ledge. Go up and over a small overlap, twin stainless steel pegs, then climb left and go up on layaways, easing towards the top.
Jim Moran, Smiler Cuthbertson, Paul Williams, P. Aubrey, 25 Aug 1979.
Variation: Mein Kampf Direct E5 (R)
2a. 23m 6a. This pitch can be climbed direct up the wall from the belay to the overlap. A little bolder, but still the same grade.
Paul Pritchard, Gwion Hughes 1986.
Variation: Mein Shaft E6 (R)
2b. 23m 6b. Follow Mein Kampf Direct to the twin stainless steel pegs. Climb directly up the hairy wall above, crux, between Mein Kampf and Ramalina.
Grant Farquhar, Wills Young (on-sight). 2 Oct 1997.
Left Hand Red Walls - Gogarth
Wills Young following the first ascent of Mein Shaft. Photo Grant Farquhar.
Ramalina 45m E6 (R)
Immaculate bold face climbing.

1. 25m 5c. Follow Left Hand Red Wall p1 to the belay.
2. 20m 6b. Follow Left Hand Red Wall p2 to the small ledge, climb straight up passing a pocket at 10m. A hard move over a bulge leads to a rest. Carry on to the top without much gear. High in the grade.
Mike Twid Turner and Kath Goodey, 15 Sep 1991, (on sight). Second ascent Noel Craine.


Heart of Gold *** 57m E5 (R)
Whatta route! The main pitch blasts up the middle of left-hand red wall in magnificent positions. The hors d’oeuvres is no push-over. Start two-thirds of the way down the grassy ramp (40m abseil), an obvious tottering talc and quartz groove marks the line of Left Hand Red Wall. Described via the more commonly climbed Direct variation.
1. 6a. 17m. Up Left Hand Red Wall for 3m then head out rightwards from a rattly flake to reach protection. Make committing moves right, then right and up to a small ledge. With ingenuity, a good belay can be constructed hanging below the ledge.
2. 6a. 40m. Go up to an overlap, good large wire, crimp (technical crux) to a stopping place then sprint directly to a small spike. (Heart of Gold Original traverses right from the stopping place to the base of a left leaning groove and climbs this, good rest, to the small spike. Less logical and no easier). Move left to a larger spike and good rest. Enjoy the view! Gain and follow a crack up and rightwards to a small ledge then move up to a niche where Left Hand Red Wall joins from the left. Up this, trending rightwards, to the top.
p1 Mick Fowler and Stevie Haston 20/8/78. Original: Mick Fowler. P.Thomas Oct 16, 1978. Direct: Paul Pritchard, Trevor Hodgson on-sight Oct 12, 1986.

Speed record on this pitch must be Noel Craine (5 hours). He also took a 40 footer when he pulled a TV sized block off.


Link up: Heart of Gold Direct-Ramalina Connection E6 57m (R)
1. 6a. 17m. Follow Heart of Gold p1 to the belay.
2. 6b. 40m. Follow Heart of Gold p2 to the junction with Left Hand Red Wall on the small ledge. Finish up Ramalina.
Wills Young and Grant Farquhar (AL) on-sight,1997. Second ascent of this combo by Nick Bullock.
The Super Calabrese E7 72m (R)
This infamous “chop” route takes 3 independent and serious pitches up the wall. The intimidating and very serious first pitch appears to be the hardest.
1. 17m 6b. Start just down the rake from Heart of Gold underneath a seeping roof. Traverse horizontally rightwards a little way under the roof to a birdy shelf. Clip the crap peg above and then pull through the roof to gain a groove. Climb the groove trending rightwards to the Heart of Gold belay.
2. 15m 6a. Follow a scimitar shaped thin seam up and rightwards with increasing difficulty to the original belay of The Enchanted Broccoli Garden.
3. 40m 6a. “The Astro-Turf pitch“. Move leftwards from the belay to good kit in a shallow groove. Exit this slightly rightwards then climb straight up the golden wall on pockets to enter a large scoop from the right. Exit this leftwards and continue up rubble to the top.
p1 Paul Pritchard belayed by Paul Barbier, 16 Oct 1986
p2 Paul Pritchard belayed by Gwion Hughes, 8 Jan 1987
p3 Paul Pritchard and Bobby Drury, 29 Jan 1987
Second ascent by Mike Twid Turner and partner, 1990s. The entire route was climbed in one push from the ground after work, finishing in the dark with help from the lighthouse.
Paul Pritchard on The Super Calabrese. Photo Ben Wintringham from High Magazine.

The Super-Duper Calabrese *** E6 72m (R)
This is a essentially a wild variation on pitch one that looks far better than the original and should open up the whole route to get the attention it deserves.
1.17m.6b. Start just left of the original and pull through the roof rightwards to gain a juggy flake, arrange bomber protection then traverse wildly above the lip of the roof on huge holds until a powerful sequence leads up into the groove of the original route, this can then be followed to the top.
2.15m. 6a. The Super Calabrese p2

3.40m. 6a. The Super Calabrese p3

Neil Dickson and James McHaffie 25 Aug 2007 (Ground up with two falls as quartz holds broke, whats left is now solid).


Chris Wentworth and Grant Farquhar on the top pitch of The Enchanted Brocolli Garden. Photo Jethro Kiernan.
The Enchanted Broccoli Garden E6 *** 80m (R)
An epic outing through some amazing territory. Start from the vegetated ramp beneath the wall, reached by abseil. An obvious feature on the wall is a horizontal break which cuts across rightwards from the ramp. Heart of Gold pitch 1 traverses above this and The Super Calabrese pitch 1 traverses below it. Start down and right off the ramp beneath a ridiculously impregnable looking overhanging wall.
1.40m 6b. This pitch features some soft rock but is solid in the grade. From the ramp traverse in rightwards to a spike/pinnacle feature in the centre of the wall. Arrange protection here. Continue directly on wonderful bubbles to enter a small groove. Climb this to a no-hands rest on a ledge in the horizontal break beneath an overhang. There is good but awkward to arrange protection over the lip. Surmount the overhang and continue up the porcelain slab above past some small wires to an impasse. Make some tricky moves past the difficulties to easier but still pumpy ground above. Fight through this fairly hostile environment to easier ground on The Missionary. There is now a choice of belays. The original “non” belay involves traversing left to a good spike with peg runner above. The first ascentionists belayed off the peg and standing on the spike which may be more stylish but less safe than belayed hanging off the spike and equalised to the peg and other runners nearby. Alternatively continue directly to gain a square cut ledge (10 feet up the original second pitch) which provides a bomb-proof belay.
2.40m 6b. From the square cut ledge, climb directly up on the vertical wall just left of a shallow groove. Bold, thin and tricky moves lead to a good jug. More bold, thin and tricky moves lead to the garden (in-situ monster alien spiders). Continue directly to the top. Proceed directly to the pub and get pissed.
Paul Pritchard and Moose Thomas, 28 Aug 1986.
Left Hand Red Walls - Gogarth
Steve Mayers and Crispin Waddy on The Enchanted Brocolli Garden. Photo Grant Farquhar.
Pagan 92m E4 (R)
A real adventure!! A series of taxing pitches make this one of the best wall climbs at Gogarth. Mentally challenging with intricate route finding on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Start about 25 metres above the sea, just above where the grass ends.
1 21m. 5b. Deygo p1.
2 28m. 5c. Climb up trending slightly right for three metres on dubious holds passing an ancient jammed nut (as for Deygo). Move leftwards along a grotty break to gain a standing position on a protruding ledge – good gear. Climb up following aright trending diagonal weakness. After 10 meters, pull steeply left over a small overlap to a ledge then follow the obvious vegetated ramp right to its top and a hanging belay on a large flake and spike.
3 43m. 5c. Move right, level with the belay, along a ledge until it just about stops. Climb a depression, passing an ancient jammed nut to a sloping ledge. Traverse 10m left (dropping down a little, then moving back up) on great rock to a obvious good nut slot (7 or 8 rock). Move up and trend boldly rightwards into a shallow depression below an obvious rubbly break. Attain the lip of the break and hand traverse rightwards until it is possible to climb into the break. Follow the break up rightwards to a final mud/grass/rock finish. Breathe out and imagine what the route must have been like in 1973 without cams!
Pat Littlejohn, A. Houghton 1973.
Salem 83m E4/5 (R)
A sneaky little gem between Pagan and Deygo. This is the original description as documented in the 1990 guide and subsequently this is the way the route has most often been climbed. Start as for Deygo/Pagan.
1 21m. 5b. As for Deygo/Pagan pitch 1 to the belay.
2 28m. 5c. Follow Deygo p2 for 10m to the square-cut ledge, and break out left on a handrail. Go up a pleasant wall to a short left-facing groove. Ascend this then step left to belay on spikes, as for Pagan or belay on the RHS of the ledge.
3 34m. 6a. Follow Pagan to the sloping ledge until moves right and up gain a ledge, hidden peg (missing 15-Sep-07). Make a difficult move into the short hanging groove above (easier from the left) , and follow it to finish.

Named after the famous painting by Vosper
Paul Pritchard and Paul (Piggy) Johnstone, Jan 31, 1988.

Deygo 102m E3 (R)
A very good route, with its fair share of serious and strenuous climbing, following the most striking line of weakness, slanting rightwards up the full height of the wall, with a small deviation on p2. Start about 25m above the sea, just above where the grass ends.
1 21m. 5b. Traverse diagonally right on reasonably solid holds to a sandy groove and ledge beyond. New and old peg in sandy groove. Climb awkwardly up into the obvious dusty slanting chimney passing an old rusty RURP, then pull steeply right on good holds to a stance and belay on decaying pegs and bolts, backed up by an essential 3.5 friend.
2 21 m. 5b. Step right and climb the shallow chimney, moving left over a slight bulge to a peg. Carry on up the up the shattered crack to a square-cut ledge, then step right to a peg in a groove. Climb the groove to a small stance on easier ground.
3 35m. 5c. Climb up above the belay for three metres to a peg where the angle eases slightly. Continue up the crack past pegs for another 10m. Move right across the wall to a small ledge, peg. Climb diagonally leftwards up to regain the crack (peg) and climb this to a belay on a sloping ramp, Red Wall Escape Route. 
4 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
Tom Proctor and Geoff Birtles (5 pts aid) April 1968. Each of the first 3 pitches were climbed on separate days, spread over several weeks. Even with 5 points of aid this is hard core for 1968!
FFA Ron Fawcett, John Heseltine 1973.

Yarding Lard 100m E6 (R)
Start at the bottom of the zawn, about 7 metres left of Come to Mother.
1 40m. 6b. Step across the void and climb straight up to two pegs. Launch over the roof and up the crack above. Move left into Pagan just below the obvious white ledge. Step off the right hand end and climb the sand pit to the Pagan stance.
2 30m. 6a. Follow the sandy break out right to the obvious sandy cave. Step right and climb the pocketed red wall, with good gear, to the Infidel belay.
35m. 5c. Climb straight up to the horn (now gone) and move above to a hand jamming crack, left of Anarchist.
Mike Twid Turner, Steve Hartland, August 1995.
Come to Mother E7 (R)
Took a line over the roof at the base of the zawn to gain the promontory. The route collapsed in 1987. The description is recorded below for posterity.
Start from a pedestal belay below a huge unclimbed blank corner (television set groove) at the base of the bowels of the earth. Not even monster alien spiders venture this deep.
100ft 6a. Out left to arete and big block, up rightwards on quartzy growths until beneath a tottering earthy roof. Surmount this and traverse a hand crack on the lip of the roof to a belay on nuts and friends.
2 80ft 6a. Traverse right on “Buoux” pockets to a place where you cant get any gear in. Traverse right and down to the promontory (hysterical laughter). We are psychotic and need help. The quarryman is a plaything, when one grows up one forsakes ones toys for survival.
Johnny Dawes and Paul Pritchard Sep 1986.
The next routes are accessed from The Promontory
Infidel 80m E3 (R)
This route gains the main diagonal line of Deygo by a nice pitch on the right. Descend grass on the promontory to where it gets frightening, 10 metres above where the ramp drops away (a long abseil rope is useful to belay on).
1 25m. 5b. Climb up to gain a weakness. Follow this diagonally left, on poor rock, and move up to two pegs. Go up and left to large holds, then follow them to the obvious groove and a belay on a small ledge.
2 40m. 5c. Step up and left into Deygo, peg, and finish up this.
3 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
Ben Wintringham, Joe Brown, Marion Wintringham (2 pts aid) 2 Sep 1978. FFA G.Tinnings 1978.
Variation: Infidel Direct E4 (R)
2a 40m. 5c. Climb the striking crack directly all the way, past pegs, to a belay on a sloping ramp of Red Wall Escape Route. 
Jim Moran, Paul Williams, Nov 5 1978.
Salem (via independent start) 83m E4/5 (R)
Start as for Infidel.
1 21m. 5c. Climb Infidel for 3m then traverse down and left to foot ledges. Shuffle along these to the Deygo/Pagan belay.
2 28m. 5c. Follow Deygo p2 for 10m to the square-cut ledge, and break out left on a handrail. Go up a pleasant wall to a short left-facing groove. Ascend this then step left to belay on spikes, as for Pagan or belay on the RHS of the ledge.
3 34m. 6a. Follow Pagan to the sloping ledge until moves right and up gain a ledge, hidden peg (missing 15-Sep-07). Make a difficult move into the short hanging groove above ( easier from the left) , and follow it to finish.

Named after the famous painting by Vosper.
p 2&3 Paul Pritchard and Piggy Johnstone, Jan 31, 1988 via Deygo/Pagan p1.
p1 Paul Pritchard and Crispin Waddy on-sight, 2 Aug 1988.


Outside the Asylum 50m E5 (R)
Surprisingly independent with good protection. Sustained and with intricate route finding – a superb pitch. Start at a pinnacle on the ramp, between Infidel and Anarchist. 
1 45m. 6a. Climb carefully onto the pinnacle, and step left to a ledge. Move up and left around a steep rib, past a slot, and go up to a peg. Climb the wall direct for ten metres to a small ledge. Go rightwards to join Anarchist at the detached flake and follow this to belay on the ramp of Red Wall Escape Route. 
2 20m. 4a. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
Paul Pritchard, Piggy Johnston 21 Jan 1988. Second ascent Crispin Waddy, 1988.

Anarchy in the UK E4 65m (R)
45m 6a. The direct start to Anarchist is an excellent route. Start below a spike, as for Outside the Asylum. Climb up the right side of the spike and move left to clip the peg on Outside the Asylum. Climb directly up the corner groove above, over a small overlap and up the wall to a horizontal break. Step right and make increasingly hard moves up the wall, right of a black streak, to join Anarchist and follow this to the belay.
2 20m. 4a. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
Mike Twid Turner, Al George and Johnny Rotten, 1989.
Care in the Community 65m E5 (R)
45m 6a. Start as for Anarchy in the UK to arrive below the finishing crack of Anarchist. Move right, hands in the break, and climb the flake just left of the arête, exciting, to belay on the ledge, on the escape route.
2 20m. 4a. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
Glenda Huxter, Howard Jones 5 Oct 1995.Second ascent Steve Mayers and Grant Farquhar, 1995.
Anarchist 57m E1 (R)
A good introduction to LH Red Wall. Start from the promontory, at the base of the abseil.
1 37m. 5b. Traverse left to a series of grooves and ledges. Climb these to a detached flake, the top of which can be gained by a semi-mantle move (the s/s peg here is obvious from the promontory). Climb up to a small overlap and traverse right into a niche (crux). Follow the steep crack above to a good ledge on Red Wall Escape Route. 
2 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
Ben Wintringham, Jim Moran 8 Aug 1978.
Left Hand Red Walls - Gogarth
Graeme Ettle on Anarchist. Photo G.Farquhar.

Variation: Anarchist Variation Finish 50m E2 (R)
1a 50m 5c. Just because you can! Follow Anarchist until it is possible to traverse across into Deygo. Climb Deygo for five metres then follow a traverse line left to ledges farther left. Climb the pillar to belay as the rope runs out!
Steve Andrews, 9 Dec 1987.

Variation: The Gentleman’s Finish 17m E3 6a (R)
2a Take the obvious direct line from the belay at the end of of the first pitch of Anarchist. Follow rough loose crackline, step right move up diagonal left crack straight up to the right of the corner.
Mike Twid Turner, Ollie Cain, Mark Sykes 2 Aug 2007.
The Missionary 92m E4 (R)
A really worthwhile girdle, for its fantastic positions and tremendous exposure. Start as for Anarchist. 
1 34m. 5c. Follow Anarchist to a horizontal crack, which leads left to the hanging stance on Pagan, pitch 2.
2 28m. 5c. Descend the layback flake on Pagan, then go left and up to a protruding ledge, level with the stance. A diagonal descent leftwards leads to a shallow groove on Heart of Gold. Climb this to a spike, step down left, and continue traversing to gain the stance of Left Hand Red Wall. 
3 30m. 5b. Step down from the stance, and move left onto poor rock. Continue leftwards, across Cannibal, descending slightly until it is possible to cross a rib, and move up to a ledge line. Follow this, then step down and continue the traverse, passing large spikes, to finish up the left arête of the wall.
Mick Fowler, P.Thomas (AL) 7 Oct 1978.
Link up:The Missionary- Maze 225m E4 (R)
A link-up of the two ‘Red Wall’ girdles provides a superb Gogarth Adventure. Nowhere are the difficulties excessive, but thoughtful route finding, care with the rock and diligence in seeking protection are pre-requisites to a successful outcome. All members of the party should be experienced at this grade on the Red Walls. All belays are good. Best left for a quiet day! Start from the ‘col’ at the left-hand end of the Left Hand Red Wall, reached by a short abseil from a huge spike in the slope above the left-hand arête. Nut and spike belay.
1 30m. 5b. From the ‘col’, traverse right passing large spikes until a step up gains a ledge line. Follow this then step down to cross a rib. Ascend slightly, crossing Cannibal, then continue rightwards across poor rock. Move right and up to gain the stance of Left Hand Red Wall. 
2 28m 5c. Traverse right, to a step down to gain a good spike. Move right (crux) and descend the groove of Heart of Gold (well-protected). From its base, ascend diagonally rightwards past the Super Calabrese belay peg to a protruding ledge. Climb down, and then go right to gain a large layback flake (Pagan). Follow this to a hanging stance at its top.
3 35m 5b. Follow the obvious horizontal crack line, which leads into Anarchist at a large detached flake. Continue up Anarchist (the juggy crack line) to belay on a large ledge (on Red Wall Escape Route ramp) close to a large
grey spike against the cliff.
4 30m 5c. climb the wall boldly above the grey pinnacle to a horizontal break, then move right, and go up to a sandy ledge. Move up right to the arête, and then continue right for 6m to good cracks, and a peg. Climb down for 3m, peg, and then across the wall reach a sharp downward pointing overhang/fang (recognisable by a small inverted V notch in its lip). Layback around this to gain a good ledge in the groove of Television Route. Small wires and small cam (F 1/2) required for the belay).
5 12m 5b. Climb down to good small ledges, then continue down for 2m, and step right to a corner (Redshift). Climb this, and move out right onto a sloping ledge, Wendigo, pitch 3 belay.
6 30m 5c. Traverse right to a small ledge. Move round the corner and onto a ledge on Red Haze. Go down the obvious broken grey ramp just right for 6m, until it is possible to gain the sandy white chimney/fault line (Rapture of the Deep). Move up slightly then right to gain a similar fault line (Red Wall final pitch). Descend this for 4m to its belay (a white sandy alcove with several ancient pegs).
7 30m 5b. Climb across the wall until it is possible, at 3m, to pass a small protruding nose. Move right onto the fine red wall to gain a good flake (Fantasia). Climb this, then trend diagonally rightwards making exiting moves using jugs on the lip of a small roof to gain another white sandy chimney/fault line (Communication Breakdown). Climb down this (or the more solid, ramp immediately right) for 10m to a good ledge on A Brown Study. 
8 30m 5b. Move right then up to gain sloping, red ledges. When these end, head diagonally rightwards past sandy rock to reach a short red wall. Climb this, then head up and rightwards to reach a natural thread where the slab meets the wall. Pull over here, and head easily, but carefully to the top. Belay from a low flat boulder and with a braced sitting down stance against the path edge!
Mike Waters, Graham Hoey (AL) 28 Aug 2007.
Left Hand Red Wall Girdle Traverse E3 (R)
4 pitches. Start as for Vena Cava finish up Deygo.
Pete Crew, Joe Brown 5 points aid 3 May 1969.
The Promontory
Puritan VS (R)
The chimney
Ben & Marion Wintringham 17 Sep 1977
Atheist E4 (R)
The groove left of Heathen.
Ben & Marion Wintringham 9 Sep 1977 FFA Leigh McGinley, Stevie Haston 1981.

Three Men and a Cake E5 (R)
The arete between the grooves.
1 60ft 5b. The arete right of Atheist to belay on nuts.
90ft 5c. Up the arete then move right to area of grey rock. Up this to roof then back left onto the arete (gnarly rock). Finish up slab on rock and grass, no belays (weird but not that weird).
Martin Crook & Dave Kendall (AL) on-sight, Sep 1988.
Heathen E1 (R)
The obvious groove left of the slab.
Ben & Marion Wintringham 28 Aug 1977.
The Cruel Seam E5 6b 45m (R)
The seam between Heathen and the central crackline.
George Smith, Steve Howe 2 Aug 1988.
This is the Sea 45m E5 (R)
Start below the obvious central crackline, right of Heathen.
1 37m. 6a. Start the crack via the bulging wall, and continue in the same line to the first overlap. Go over this leftwards to a good foothold. Continue up the cracked wall, two pegs, to beneath the top overhang, poor peg. Go over the overhang, taking care with the rock, to better holds, and a poor belay in the crack.
2 8m. Work rightwards on grass to the arête, and go up to belay on top of the promontory.
Martin Crook, John Tombs, 15 Aug 1987.
The Featherstone 45m E5 6b (R)
Brilliant, superbly protected climbing.Start six metres right of the previous route, and climb the obvious leftward slanting crack, on good locks, to a prominent projection in the roof. Pull over the roof, then move up and left, with difficulty, to join T.I.T.S. at it’s 2nd peg. Finish up this on poor rock.
Crispin Waddy, 28th Sep 1988.

Smear Campaign 45m E8 6b/c (R)

Brilliant powerful climbing without many footholds. Start up The Featherstone for 8m until it’s possible to break out right on side pulls to the first overlap. Arrange gear in the overlap quickly then pull over onto the blind wall above. Committing moves lead tenuously to better holds in the second overlap/bulge. Move up, and then head diagonally right, past a thread, to reach the easier but still serious upper arête of Satan’s Scream.

Alex Mason & James McHaffie 1st Sep 2014. .  .

Satan’s Scream E8 6c 45m (R)
The last crack before the arete has 2 old pegs and an intense first half.
Reach up and clip the first peg where really hard moves lead up to the next one and just as hard moves lead to the overlap and better protection. Climb a flared crack and reach carefully right to gain the ledge on the arete which is followed even more carefully to the top.
James McHaffie, Calum Muskett, Mark Dicken, Ray Wood 12 Nov 2013.
Satan's Scream FA
James McHaffie on the first ascent of Satan’s Scream. Photo copyright Ray Wood.
The following routes are around the arete, on the front face of the promontory. Scramble round from the abseil.
Into the Light E2 (R)
Start from the toe of the promontory.
1. 20m 5c. Gain a niche, step left and climb the groove to a ledge and belay.
2. 15m 4b. Finish up the arete.
Martin Crook, Andy Popp on-sight, 12 Aug 1987.
Snatch in the Storm 45m E3 6a (R)
Climb the obvious V-groove right of Into the Light. Swing out right where it closes and amble up to the top of the promontory.
Paul Jenkinson, Crispin Waddy on-sight, 28 Sep 1988.

Red Warbler’s 30m E4 6a (R)
The continuation groove of the above route. Swarm up the groove after a hard first move. Protection is every wimps dream.
G.Smith, J.Toombs, D.Holmes, A.Wainwright, R.Kay, N.Dixon, 1 August 1996.

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales