A great area the has seen many more people climbign on it since it was re-equipped and retro bolted in parts. Although some routes do still feel bold. It is best reach from either the ‘Tunnel of Love’ by Dali’s Wall or a short abseil from Looning The Tube area, abseil just below the tube.
Mad on the Metro E4 . New Bolts and Lower-off. The original ring bolt was left in to aid identification.09/06
Geboa Racer E3. The bolts were place recently and look OK. A new bolt to protect the loose top out has been added. 09/06
Patio Doors of Perception E3. New lower off. 09/06
The Fat Controller F6a New route left of Red Throated Diver 5 Bolts + Lower Off. FA – P Targett and I Lloyd-Jones (Both Led) 22 / 06 / 07
Scarface Claw F6a+ New route between The Fat Controller and Red Throated Diver 6 Bolts to lower off FA – I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett 23/08/07
Red Throated Diver E3 6a**. New bolts one added to protect a boulder problem start and Lower-off. 09/06
2nd Class Passenger E2 5c*. New bolts one added at the bottom to protect the starting moves and one in the slightly friable groove at the top and Lower off. 10/06
Sleeper F6c New Route to the right of 2nd Class Passenger 6 bolts + Belay / Abseil Bolt. FA – I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (Both Led) 4 / 6 /07
Crazy Train F6b+ New Route left of Ancestral Vices 8 bolts. FA – I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (Both Led) 22/ 06 /07
Ancestral Vices E4 6b *. New Bolts two bolts added below where the first one was to protect the friable start and Lower off. 10/06
Off the Beaten Track E3 5c ***. New bolts plus 3 added to protect the friable start. 10/06
Uncle Nick’s Broken Toe E5 6b
Starts to the left of ‘Between…’ under the middle of a small overlap. Make some technical and unprotected moves up to a good hold above the overlap. From here climb direct up to the bolt on ‘Here To Stay…’, totally unprotected but for sky hooks but thankfully not very difficult. Finish as for ‘Here To Stay…’ or over to the left at a similar grade.
Starts to the left of ‘Between…’ under the middle of a small overlap. Make some technical and unprotected moves up to a good hold above the overlap. From here climb direct up to the bolt on ‘Here To Stay…’, totally unprotected but for sky hooks but thankfully not very difficult. Finish as for ‘Here To Stay…’ or over to the left at a similar grade.
F.A. Calum Muskett sep 2009 (the Nick mentioned was belaying!)
Between Here & Now E3 6a. Two bolts added lower down and then re-equipped higher up. Lower off. 3/07
Here to stay, Gone Tomorrow. E3 6a. Re-equipped it is possible to start up Between Here and now and traverse into this route, E3 if done this way.3/07.
Psychodelicate F7c 25 metres***
An excellent climb. Follow the bolts across the traverse and up the thin slab. The first crux is a weird british 6c move between the fourth and fifth bolt, and the second crux is the same as the original up a very thin top few metres of slab.
F.A. George Smith and Chris Parkin 06/12/86
First re-ascent after rock fall- Calum Muskett (on-sight) 07/04/10
An excellent climb. Follow the bolts across the traverse and up the thin slab. The first crux is a weird british 6c move between the fourth and fifth bolt, and the second crux is the same as the original up a very thin top few metres of slab.
F.A. George Smith and Chris Parkin 06/12/86
First re-ascent after rock fall- Calum Muskett (on-sight) 07/04/10
Ghan 6b *
Start up the corner at the righthand end of the Railtrack Slab, to a ledge. Then climb the left edge of the slab above to reach the main slab. Follow a line of weakness diagionally across this to the lower off.FA. H.Walmsley, C.Struthers 16/4/2014