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Merlin Buttress | North Wales Climbs

Merlin Buttress

Down to Earth E2
Clean
Re-Entry E2
First pitch would need a brush before climbing
** Belshazzar HVS 5a
Clean, seems daft wandering over to finish up Reinetta, just follow the arete to the top.
Earthsea
 HVS 5a
Clean, but you’re advised to start up the rib as for Salamanda, and you join Belshazzar quite soon, so not much of a route
** Daddy Cool E2 5c
Clean (much better when finished up the Sting)
** Salamanda E1 4b, 5b (The direct finish is 5c up the thin crack, so as soon as you’ve got it wimp out leftwards, still good value)
Clean
* The Sting E2 5c
Clean
Heartbreak Hotel
Lost New start for Reinetta or Merlin
*** Rienetta H. Severe (probably VS 4c)
New start: Start as for Heartbreak Hotel but trend rightwards across slab to Merlin stance. Traverse left to belay above first tree. Brilliant, unlikely climbing to the top, ace route. Don’t worry about blocks on top pitch these are no worse than any others here!
Dragon E2 6b
First pitch lost, main pitch could and clean approach as for new Rienetta start
*** Merlin VS 5a
Can be started as for new Rienetta start to give an excellent Hard Severe . Climbed wall to right of second pitch the other day (left of Geireagle) moving up and slightly right from belay. Very good 4c pitch but one hollow hold, worthwhile variation, Mike Raine.
*** Merlin Direct HVS 5a
Tread lightly over detached blocks
** Vulture E4 6a
Clean
** Geireagle E3 5c
Clean
** Y Broga HVS 5a The crucial block hold at the top of the first crack is very loose. Take care.
Clean
Oberon Severe -ish
Start as described in guide is polished and has poor protection. A crack to its right can be climbed direct but whilst being very well protected in harder. There is a diff groove to the right which is pretty much in keeping with the upper pitches. The whole route is probably best left to instructional parties!
Trivial Pursuits
Well worthwhile, but might be worth a brush first.
Emotional Crisis
Good, but very obscure, abseil inspection recommended. The tree was used as a runner and for upward progress on the first ascent! This was confrimed by first ascentionist, Adrian Hardcastle today (27.06.07) on a flying vist form Saudi arabia, 23 years on.

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales