Abseil directly to sea level ledges across the zawn from Black Light.
1. 20m 5b. The short corner leads to easier ground. Pass the overhang and continue to belay on a sloping ledge on the left (peg).
2. 45m 5c. Step right around the corner and traverse right (scary) on all sorts of holds to join and finish up Lighthouse Arete.
Andy Newton & Martin Crook on-sight (AL), 25 Sep 1986.
Nematoid E3 60m
1. 20m 5b. Captain Nemo p1.
Unclear how this route relates to Nematoid.
Approach as for Captain Nemo.
1. 20m 5b. Captain Nemo p1.
2. 45m 5b. Traverse across the slab to the arete and follow this on suspect rock to a niche under an overhang. Stick a big friend in and head up and right….remainder of Petes Eats entry illegible. Rick ? 2003.
The next 3 routes lie on the slabby wall left of Lighthouse Arete.
Black Light HVS 65m
A good but esoteric and poorly protected outing up the big slab on the LHS of Castell Helen. Gain the base of the slab by scrambling round from the main abseil.
1. 35m 4c. Climb the slab via a blunt rib, crack, overhang and flake to take a stance right of the top of the slab.
2. 30m 4b. Finish up and right to the main abseil point.
AC Wilmott, MJ Spring, D Edwards, 14 Sep 1969.
Woodlight HS 4a 60m
Climb the crest of the ridge on the right side of the slab of Black Light to join and finish up Black Light. Take belays as necessary.
Tim Neill, J Bertalot, 28/9/11.
Fluorescent Ridge VD 60m
Start left of the roof capped groove at the base of the left arete of the main face. Climb up and leftwards on the right side of the ridge of Woodlight. Continue past the roof to join and finish as for Black Light. Take belays as necessary.
Tim Neill, J Bertalot, 28/9/11.
Blanco ***HVS 71m
A brilliant route with a stunningly positioned crux.
1. 4c 33m. From the low tide niche, follow the right-hand crack that emerges on huge holds to the high-tide niche. Continue in the same direction more steeply, following the groove, to a small roof at a quartz band. Step left, then climb up & gradually leftwards on the wall, keeping to the left of the overlap, heading for the cone shaped groove above. Cross underneath the groove to belay on a ledge.
3. 4a 25m. Climb the arête, joining the previous routes, heading rightwards for the abseil station and the top.
Joe Brown, Dave Alcock, 15.09.66.
A State of Saturation ** HVS 73m
Mike Gresham et al, 1984.
Poseidon *VS 68m
Another good adventure which gradually increases in difficulty the higher you ascend. Start from the niche on the low tide platform.
2. 25m 4c Continue up the big crack to a band of more slabby rock. It is possible to scuttle left on to the arête here but better to continue. The crack above provides an awkward but well protected crux on big, if slightly unusual, holds. Ascend it to the big break of Pel P2 which is followed easily leftwards to Lighthouse Arête.
3. 15m 4a As for Lighthouse Arete P4
D McGonigal, J Doodson, W Sutherland, 9 May 1970.
Variation: The Blanco Connection HVS
2a 30m 5a. Climb diagonally leftwards up the red slab via a small cave to join and finish up Blanco.
Variation: Poseidon Direct Finish HVS/ E1
2a 30m 5a. Instead of traversing left to Lighthouse Arete to belay, step right and climb a shallow groove to the abseil point.
D Lyon, J Frost, K Robertson, C Lyon, 1976.
1. 4c 28m From the right side of the niche follow a line of good holds rightwards across the wall to the main crack. Follow this, steeply at times, and the wall above. Move slightly left to the groove, and climb this to the left-hand side of the halfway platform and a belay.
2. 4b 37m From the left-hand side of the platform, climb the short wall above, up and slightly leftwards, to reach an obvious horizontal break with a small roof. Follow this, rising leftwards, towards the arête, and finish moving back right on slightly less solid rock to reach the top.
Pete Crew, Dave Alcock, 8th Oct 1966.
Start as for Rap.
1. 28m 5a. Move across the wall trending slightly left to a crack system in the middle of the wall, straight up the wall to a vague groove and follow this to theleft of the platform.
2. 43m 5b. Climb up to a traverse line at 6m and follow this right to a peg. Gain the next break above and move left into a short open groove. Follow this for a short way before stepping left onto the front of the face. Climb straight up to the top in a fine position.
Al Evans, Jim Moran (led pitch 1). Geoff Milburn, N Siddiqui, 1st May 1978.
It was done by several climbers from the north west and was above Atlantis. Al Evans.
Lee Roberts on Northwest Passage. Photo Jethro Kiernan
1. 28m 4c. An excellent steep pitch but with good holds and gear. From the ledge climb up and initially leftwards before straighteneing up and heading for the obvious corner/groove in the middle of the face. Tricky moves gain the corner which soon eases and so romp up on good jugs to reach the belay ledge.
2. 37m 4c. From the belay step left and climb up the centre of the red wall to an obvious large break. Ferret around in the back of this for good gear (make sure its well extended) and then quest on up the wall above. This can feel hard on first aquaintence, especially if tackled directly, coming in from the left may make things easier for you. As the angle eases bear leftwards, round a big block to reach a slab and so up this to the ab point.
Pete Crew, Dave Alcock, 8 Oct 1966.
Jon Ratcliffe on Rap. Photo Jethro Kiernan
Stephen Reid & Crag Jones, Sept. 1982.
Start as for Rap.
2. 30m 5b. Climb down the corner on the right of the ledge for 3m to an obvious traverse line. Traverse rightwards (peg) for 12m to a rest. Climb straight up the wall, moving slightly rightwards to belay below the roof.
3. 28m 5b. Step up left where the roof is an overlap and pull into the groove. Finish up this.
Andy Hyslop, Dave Knighton AL, 1st May 1978.
Andy Scott on True Moments. Photo Jethro Kiernan
3a. 30m 5c. Climb directly over the roof (peg). Finish up the wall above (peg).
Andy Hyslop, Dave Knighton, 1st May 1978.
2. 40m 5c. Above the belay just to the right of centre is a short technical groove (peg reported MIA in 2007), climb the wall to gain the groove, an awkward move right allows one to exit the groove. Continue diagonally up and right to gain another more continuous groove. Climb this to the top.
Joe Brown, Dave Alcock, 16 Sep 1966.
1. 40m 4c. Move up to the ledge on Lighthouse Arete. Climb diagonally right across Blanco and gain the platform by the groove of Pel.
2. 30m 5b. From the right hand side of the platform follow a lower traverse line and belay below the roof on the slab.
3. 34m 5b. Step up left where the roof is an overlap and pull into the groove. Climb diagonally rightwards above the roof (exposed) to finish up an easy groove, a fine pitch.
Al Evans, N Siddiqui, Geoff Milburn, Jim Moran (led pitch 1). 27/3/78.
1. 60m 5b. Climb the corner of Atlantis to a few metres below the belay ledge, then quest out right as for True Moments to the belay.
2. 32m 5b. Finish up Freebird.
Mike Twid Turner, Louise Thomas, 1996.
Kev Howett & Stephen Reid, Spring 1983.
The name came about because we turned the car radio on as we drove home and those were the first words that came out of it! Stephen Reid
Atlantic Wall E3
Start as for Obelisk.
1. 40m 5c. Follow Obelisk for 15 feet then continue straight up bearing slightly left to gain the weakest point of the main overhang (possible belay). Climb the small overhang and continue up the steep wall above until level with the stance on Atlantis.
2. 30m 5b. Traverse diagonally right until obvious cracks can be reached and follow these to the top.
Dave Barton, Jack Firth (AL) 1969. Note: the above is the original description from the 1977 guide. This was around the time when Dave and Jack were playing the roles of the Holliwell brothers during the making of the film ‘The Climbers’ which went on to win awards at the Trento film festival.
“Owing to considerable confusion”, the 1978 supplement re-described the end of p1 as ……steep wall to a peg runner on True Moments. Go left to the platform and belay as for Atlantis. p2 From the right hand end of the platform climb the steep wall on the right to the obvious traverse line. Follow this rightwards as for the girdle traverse to a peg runner. Move up and right to a crack above the break just right of the open groove of North West Passage. Climb the crack and corner to a dirty finish.
“Owing to considerable confusion”, the 1981 supplement re-described the end of p1 again as ….join True Moments at the end of the traverse. Belay level with the stance on Atlantis. p2 Climb the steep wall on the right…..
The 1990 guide description is p1 Start a little to the right of Atlantis. Go boldly straight up, directly beneath the left hand end of the big overhang……to reach the large break (presumably True Moments). Move right along this, then climb the wall and go up to a poor belay 10m below the roof (presumably as for True Moments/ Freebird). p2 Move diagonally leftwards to join a horizontal traverse line, directly above the first pitch (presumably as for True Moments) . Take a groove just right of North West Passage (presumably True Moments), and a crack to its right, to a dirty finish. The Ground Up Gogarth South guide has a similar description.
In keeping with tradition, Atlantic Wall is redescribed for the new millennium as climbed by a direct variation.
Mike Twid Turner and Louise Thomas, 1992.
Obelisk 79m E6 ***
Finds a line through the left hand side of the massive roof system.
1 15m 4c Climb the groove and slab to belay below the first roof.
2 34m 6b Climb up to the roof. Hand traverse wildly left along the break under the roof to gain the arete (see pic below). Climb the tricky groove to the next roof. Protection is good but pumpy to place. Traverse leftwards to the arete and easier ground above. Belay.
3 30m 5b Climb the slab, moving right to finish up a steep groove.
DE Alcock, JV Anthoine (A2) 30/8/69. FFA Stevie Haston, Martin Crook 1981.
1 10m. 4c. From the right end of the ledge, pull steeply through the bulge on large holds. Belay on the slab beneath the main roof.
2 10m. 6b. Approach the weakness in the roof from the left. The wide flared crack is a short and tough fight. Belay on the slab.
3 20m. 5c. Worth E4 in its own right. This amazing pitch bails out right through the upper roofs with bags of exposure. Traverse right round a huge hanging block and continue undercutting right and round onto the slab. Belay further up.
4. 30m. 5b. Surmount the cracked face and go up right to the cave to finish up the crack-line as for Kalahari.
Vital Statistix E8 77m
Kalahari Highway E4 70m ***
A direct variation of Kalahari linking to the phenomenal roof traverse that is p3 of Free Stone Henge.
1 10m. 4c. Kalahari p1.
2 30m. 5c. Start up the bulge as for Kalahari and then diagonally right to a small hanging slab that allows access leftwards around the end of the first roof, (crux). Possible belay on the slab as for Free Stone Henge. The rest of the pitch is common to Free Stone Henge p3. Move up to a rest and then launch out right along the undercut flake through the roof to the nose. Belay 5m up the slab. Outstanding.
3 30m. 5b. Free Stone Henge p4.
T. Dagg and E. Hind (11/5/10).
A quality route traversing rightwards through the big roofs. Good gear and solid rock with the hard climbing short lived. from the base of the abseil, traverse right (looking in) to some sloping ledges below the first bulge.
1 10m. 4c. From the right end of the ledge, pull steeply through the bulge on large holds. Belay on the slab on the right.
2 45m. 5c. Be wary of rope drag on this pitch. Move up the right end of the slab to a peg. Hard moves right lead round onto the next wall. Follow the slanting crack rightwards to a fine position on the arete. Carefully climb the runout groove above followed by easy slabs to belay beneath the upper headwall.
3 28m. 5b. A fine mini-route. Climb up onto a large block from the left and tackle the strenuous but well-protected crack above. Climbing the centre of the block via a thin crack is poorly protected 5c (pushing grade up to E4?)
Joe Brown, Pete Crew (3 pts aid) 2/10/66. Second pitch direct Rowland Edwards, 1967. Top pitch Geoff Birtles, Joe Brown, Baz Ingle, 1967.
3 30m. 5b. Free Stone Henge p4.
Makes the most of the rock between Kalahari and Yellow Wall. Loose and serious but improving towards the top. Start 100 feet right of Atlantis right of an overhanging groove.
1. 18m 4c. Climb the shallow groove in the arete to the right. Belay at the base of a crack.
2. 25m 4c. Climb the crack and continue to belay on the RHS of the slabs above.
3. 15m 4a. Continue up the slabs to belay at the foot of an obvious groove in the steep headwall.
4. 18m 5a. Finish up the groove.
Pete Crew, Joe Brown, 1 Jan 1967. Most of this had been climbed previously (according to the 1969 guide).
A 6 pitch girdle with fine climbing, slightly easier than Castell Helen Girdle mostly above that route but they join for the last two pitches. Start up Lighthouse Arete Direct pitch 1. Up 10mts to the big break and across to belay in the corner of Atlantis. Go across the steep wall to a juggy break across to the belay below the roof on Freebird. Down to join Castell Helen Girdle and follow this for 3 pitches to finish,
Al Evans, Geoff Milburn, N Siddiqui, Simon Horrox, 28/5/78.
5 pitches. As for pitch 1 Freebird then follow a traverse line to the belay on Freebird. Follow slabs under the roof. Up the exposed ramp and right above huge overhangs to a corner.Traverse 3 mts right to a foothold on the arete, steeply back left and up the corner on good holds to the top.
Geoff Cram, Mike Yates 8/10/66. The final section had been climbed previously by H.Smith and party.