Smurf Zawn

A great little venue that begs you to DWS the routes. Beware as an experienced climber had a nasty surprise and a seriously broken foot when he unexpectedly hit a submerged block.

Funky Gibbon 
33m E3 (R)
Start 10 metres left of King of the Swingers below a short groove.
1 18m. 5b. Climb the groove to a sloping ledge. Traverse 5 metres left to a line of flakes going up and right to a large ledge.
2 15m. 5b. Follow the scary leftward traverse to an easy ramp.

Martin Boysen, Joe Brown, Ben Wintringham (1981)

The wall left of King of the Swingers has been climbed at E2.
**King of the Swingers 30m E3 (R)
Start below the obvious overhanging left facing groove in the centre of the wall.
1 18m. 5c. Climb the bulge and the awkward groove above good holds beneath a roof. Move left and on to a large ledge.
2 12m. 5c. Traverse out right to gain good holds on the arête in a wild position, move around it and climb directly up to finish.
Joe Brown, Ben Wintringham (AL), Marion Wintringham 9 Nov 1978
1a E3 5c. Gain the ledge from the left. — ?Crispin Waddy.
2a E4 5c. Climb directly up the groove with little protection to a scary finish. G Tinnings and P Trower, Oct 1980.

King Louis E4/5 6a 30m (R)

Climbs the groove left of Free Nelson Mandela Now to the roof then traverse right (where King of the Swingers goes left) and up over some hard moves to a ledge above. Finish more easily.
Mike Twid Turner, Steve Mayers, date?

**Free Nelson Mandela Now 30m E5 6a (R)
This strenuous pitch climbs the jug infested overhanging area of rock to the right of King of the Swingers. Hard extremely marvellous and so so beautiful. Start three metres right of that route at a crack. Climb the crack and follow good holds right and up to gain another crack. A difficult pull reaches a rest ledge. Traverse left and go up to another ledge and easier angled rock.
Stevie Haston, Paul Trower June 1988
***Green Light 57m Very Severe (R)
A unique route of considerable character, up the cleft in the corner of the zawn and a contender for the best VS at Gogarth. Taking a headtorch isn’t really cricket. Abseil down the overhanging to the base of the zawn. Position one’s self into a braced stance, belayed from a poor nut and the abseil rope. Wait for you partner to join you and let the excitement commence.
1. 15m 4b. Bridge your way down towards the see and along into the bowels of the earth, until a large chock stone looms above. Place some cams and make a tricky feeling move to surmount this. Climb easily up to a large ledge. Good belay on the right.
2. 18m. Squirm your way upwards towards daylight, arranging gear occasionally only to be thwarted when the chimney narrows preventing exit (in-situ dead wire here). Arrange runners and with no thought for your partner thrutch downwards and outwards for a few metres until reality is reached once more. Belay here. Abseil rope back up advisable.
3. 32m. 4b. Climb the steep corner to the top on big holds, taking care not to dislodge any rocks.
J Brown, CE Davies, J Smith (1969)

Sun, Sea and Smurf E2
An ideal climb for small people with a deep blue tan or a sea sick hung over belayer! Takes the white streak and brown wall right of Green Light. Start from a non-tidal ledge above the sea just right of the Green Light chimney. Gained by abseil from above off good spikes.
1. 25m. 5c. Pull off the ledge, with good gear, to climb a balancy steep slab following the white steak. Gain the first ledge and good spike. Pull through the undercut bulge to gain good jugs and a better second ledge. Good belay.
2. 25m. 5b. Climb slightly left and up on nice red rock to reach a thin move and a pull up steep rock to finish.
Mike Twid Turner and Dai Lampard (AL) 9th August 2014.
Sun, Sea and Smurf. Source: V12.

The top above shows Smurf in the wrong place, The route traverse left below the first route to almost join Sun, Sea and Smurf, before pull back up and right to a ledge where it traverses back to the line shown.

Similarly Gnome doesn’t quite go as far alone the ramp on P1, making the second pitch more or less straight up.


**Smurf 51m E2 (R)
An excellent climb, sustained at the standard. Start about 12 metres right of Green Light, just right of a small hole on the traverse.
1 30m. 5b. Climb diagonally left under a slanting overhang to its end, and climb up the bulging wall to a ledge. Go right along this to a steep ramp, and follow it to the overhang. Traverse left under the overhang for six metres to a small stance.
2 21m. 5b. Climb directly above the stance to the next break. Traverse right for three metres and climb the wall above to a break. Go left two metres then climb diagonally right to the top.
Joe Brown, Ben Wintringham (29/7/1978)
Smurf Direct E2
It is no harder or bolder climbing straight up through the rock band on P2 of Smurf. This can be link with a direct finish up Sun, Sea and Smurf to give a great direct version.
M. Reeves, S, Lake – 8/16
*Gnome 43m E3 (R)
This route is perhaps harder than its neighbour, but is similar in quality. Start six metres right of Smurf.
1 25m. 5b. Follow the diagonal ramp rightwards round an overhanging nose, then climb straight over an overhang, on large holds, to easier ground. Climb up to a good ledge on the right.
2 18m. 5c. From the left-hand side of the ledge climb up to a break, and continue to the next break. Step left to an overhanging pod and crack, and follow this, with difficulty, to the next break. Traverse left to the corner, and follow this to the top.
Ben Wintringham, Joe Brown (3/8/1978)
*Elf 30m E1 5b (R)
Worthwhile with some interesting climbing. Start below and right of a fin of rock, in the centre of the wall. Climb up to the right side of the fin, traverse left under it, and climb the left side of it. From its top pull into an overhanging slot, and follow this rightwards until it is possible to pull out onto the wall. Climb the wall past two breaks to the top.
Ben Wintringham, Marion Wintringham, Joe Brown (23/9/1978)
Balu 30m Hard Very Severe 5a (R)
Start between Elf and the edge of the wall. Climb up to the overhang at six metres. Traverse left, then go up the wall trending right at the final overhang.
D Jones, J Brown, D Cuthbertson (22/10/1978)
Dai Hard E5 6b 30m (R)
The right hand side of the Smurf wall. Climb up to a peg and hard moves up the wall lead up to a rest. Finish direct.
Mike Twid Turner and Louise Thomas 1990s
**The Smurf Zawn Girdle 79m Hard Very Severe (R)
A good little trip around this exciting zawn, starting at a big platform on the right side of the zawn.
1 30m. 5a. Follow the obvious break curving under the overhang until the angle eases. Continue in the same line to belay on Gnome.
2 15m. 4c. Climb up to the next break, and traverse under the overhang to a junction with Smurf. Follow this to its stance.
3 34m. 4a. Traverse horizontally into the corner, and descend this for three metres to an obvious line. Follow this to the easy-angled ramp and belay here. Scramble off to finish.
B Wintringham, D Jones, J Brown, M Wintringham (23/10/1978)
Around the corner is the wave cut platform right of Smurf Zawn

Groove Tuesday E2/3 15m (R)
The groove left of Arettic Behaviour. A nice little gem well protected.
Mike Twid Turner and Louise Thomas,1999

Arettic Behaviour E6 6b 12m (R)
Climbs the prominent arête on the left hand side of the platform.Climb the sharp arête from the left hand side initially to straddle the arête to the top
Mike Twid Turner and Louise Thomas,1999

A Bridge Too Far E2 5b 12m (R)
The corner just right of Arretic Behaviour. Nice.
Mike Twid Turner and Louise Thomas,1999
The Onions of Doom HVS 5a 27m (R)
Escape by starting up the next route and then breaking out left to climb flakes and a final steep groove.
Si Panton and Gav Foster 24/9/11
Spinney’s Alternative to Intimidation HVS 5a 32m (R)
An escape route up the ramp and corner in the right arete.
R Greenwood, K Spinney 28/8/06

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales