Yogi Area


Quercus 45m HS 4B *
A pleasant new addition on excellent slabby rock. One long pitch up to the top of the cliff
Start as for Cnychwyr. From the start of the twin cracks climb diagonally up leftward , continue up the centre of the slab to gain a corner. Up the short corner exiting right . Move up to a bulge which is taken on the left on big holds and continue up to a steepening. Step right and continue up to the final head wall. (Tree Radical comes in from the right at this point). Traverse diagonally rightward to finish up the easy wide crack of Rio.
Note. The first section up to the corner was originally the start of Omo but the rest of that route has disappeared under dense vegetation.
Cnychwyr Severe
First pitch now fully clean and makes a good, well protected variation start to Rio (2nd pitch was very similar to Rio any way)
Tree Radical

** Rio Severe
Now fully clean, top pitch on superb unpolished rock has a little run out, enjoy!
Abseil station at top of this route.

Rio, Pitch OneJanet Sumner on Rio
** Gwaed E1 5c
Start left of Chwys, and scramble up lose block rock to reach a tree and a prominent crack. Jam up this to a ledge. Follow the crack to the roof and make your way through the first overlap on the left. From bridged out above the first roof, move out left on slopers to get stood on the undercut arete. Reach up for jugs above and climb the easier slab to a ledge. Either belay or continue up the slab to the top.Abseil station at top of this route
Penicillin E3 6b
*** Chwys E1 5b
A great route, abseil station located at the top of this route, the peg is old and looks rusty but still feels quite solid, you can get a good RP4 or similar in next to it.
Sheer Khan
The second pitch has been lost
But the route has been replaced with:
** Sheer Khan Right-hand V.Diff
A very good route at this grade. Climb the Sheer Khan slab to belay below the steeper headwall. Pitch 2; step up onto the headwall then traverse left to a recently cleaned groove which is followed to the top. Photo below:

Sheer Kahn Right Hand, Pitch Two

Just left of the top corner of Sheer Khan Right hand is a neat little hand jam crack too.

* Sheer Resist E4 6b

Abseil inspection recommended
* Smarter then the Average Bear Severe
Great top pitch up obvious groove on head wall, probably severe
** Yogi VS 4b 4b
Climb the diagonal, quartz filled crack on the headwall
* Mr. Ranger VS 4b
Now fully gardened (see below), The line is obvious, follow the corner then the slab, then back into the corner and finally up cracks to join Yogi, finish up the arête. Mr. Ranger
* Tro Hard Severe
Clean. There is an abseil station at the top of this route
** Dagrau HVS 5a
Clean. There is an abseil station at the top of this route
* Llafur E1 5b
Clean. There is an abseil station at the top of this routeTro, Dagrau and Llafur

These last three routes are now visible from the road and should dry very quickly with the removal of the large sycamore at the base.

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales