Gerbil Abuse Area
Cig-Arete level
Start just left of Taken Over By Department C. Climbs the thin green Dolerite Vein to gain the hanging slab, follow the hairline crack to the lower off . 8 Bolts lead the way. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, John Roberts and Peter White 15/6/08
Slab and arete left of Cig-Arete.
F.A: Pete Robins, Mark Reeves, (+one other too ashamed to admit involvement in such a **** route, come on Adam Wainright, own up!)
Waiting on an Angel E1 5b. The obvious groove left by massive rockfall left of Cig-arete. one bolt and a few small wires. 03/07.
Follow Where are my Sensible Shoes to the break by the final bolt. Surmount the stupendous summit headwall direct via a hold.
FA. Adam Wainwright (unseconded) 25/03/07
F.A: Mark Dicken, Sam Dicken.
Coming up for Air F7a+. Re-bolted (06/2007)
F.A: Rob Murfin [2006]
Peppermint Tower Area
(an easy 10 min walk from the Nant Peris side of the Quarry)
Jugs Mawr 22m E3 5c **
Climb the middle of the steep dolerite wall to the left of Honorary Limestone on massive jugs to gain a crack. Follow this briefly to a peg and move up past pockets to another large break. Carry on up past a small thread and peg. Step right into the lower off on Honorary Limestone.
Honorary Limestone 22m ** F7a
A route that apparently wants to be a limestone sport route! The bolted ‘Dolerite’ line to the right of ‘Jugs Mawr’. Steep climbing via some great pockets leads to a crack, follow this up and left past the 5th bolt. Continue left along the break to join Jugs Mawr Briefly. Precarious / airy moves back rightwards will hopefully gain the 6th clip. Continue up more easily to the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 22 /3/12
Chinook Arete 23m ** F7a Climbs the bolted square cut arete to the right of ‘Midnight Drives’. If you enjoyed G’Day Arete you will probably enjoy this one, some cool moves and probably a grade harder. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 22 /3/12
‘Plateau Slab’ (The attractive slab opposite Peppermint Tower)
Follow this Link for a PDF topo of The Plateau Slab…. http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2012/05/more-new-routes-on-slate/
Circus Skills F6a 12m. Climbs a zig zagging line on the left side of the ‘Plateau Slab’ (just right of the obvious arete). Rock over up and rightwards past the final (5th) bolt to gain the ledge and lower off above. FA Tesni Lloyd-Jones (aged 12) and Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) Both Lead 05/May/2012
Monster Munch F6c+ * 12m Climbs the thin seam between Circus Skills and White Tiger. Short but continuously interesting with a thin crux at the top, for the full tick finish direct on thin crimps and smears.
FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Ray Wood, Kieran Forrest(aged 11) 13/May/2012
White Tiger F6a * 14m. Climbs the 2nd thin seam on the ‘Plateau Slab’ 5 bolts lead the way to a lower off.
FA Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) and Ian Lloyd-Jones 05/May/2012
Slate Ninja F6a * 14m. Climbs the line of 5 petzl bolts to the right of White Tiger, lower off. Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) and Ian Lloyd-Jones 05/May/2012
FA Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) and Ian Lloyd-Jones 05/May/2012
Celtic Warrior F6a *14m. Climbs the next line of weakness to the right of Slate Ninja on the ‘Plateau Slab’, 5 bolts to a lower off.
FA Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 9) and Tesni Lloyd-Jones (age 12) 05/May/2012
Magic Carpet F5 14m Follow the obvious line of weakness to the right of Celtic Warrior, 5 bolts to a lower off.
FA Celt Lloyd-Jones (age 9) and Tesni Lloyd-Jones (age 12) Both Lead 05/May/2012
Teenage Dreams F6b **18m Climbs to the highest point on the ‘Plateau Slab’ start to the right of Magic Carpet on the far right hand side of the slab. Some nice moves in the centre of the slab with an easier finish. Lower off bolts on the final pinnacle.
FA Tesni Lloyd-Jones (aged 13) and Kieran Forrest (aged 11) 13/May/2012
Pick & Mix 6a 40m Start at the bottom left handside of Plateau Slab. Climb the first 3 bolts of ‘Circus Skills’, then fire up diagonally right until you reach the highest point of the slab and lower-off of ‘Carp Diem’ & ‘Teenage Dreams’. Take plenty of quickdraws. Abseil off.
FA – Ian Martin & Clare Mason 23/10/12
1981 VS 5a 6m. Left of the Plateau Slab is a clean finger crack. Good gear and a couple of nice moves. Trad belay, then can walk right to the Plateau Slab lower off’s.. F.A Clare Mason and Dan Bright. 19/05/12
Strawberry Jam E2 5c * 22m
Climbs the obvious large crack a few meters right of ‘Come Inside’.
A unnerving start past a large dangerous block (well tested) gives access to a brilliant jamming and lay-backing up the top hand crack.
Takes lots of cams. Double up on mediums, triple up if your a wimp
“HELP!” (it’s raining jugs) XS? 5c 22m
Climb ‘Strawberry Jam’ past the dangerous block and place the last of your protection. Then exit right up the narrow ramp running it out to the top. This is very loose, mostly at the top although the hold are jugs. 7/7/12 Dan Ely, Dan Hale