Scramble down the grassy slope to gain the col between the mainland and the grassy hillock. Then hike over the hillock and either scramble down the ridge or make an abseil into a steep zawn facing out to sea where most of the routes are. Or via sea level from either direction. From the North a 5a wall at low tide. From the South is easy but you are coming from Natalie Zawn which needs an abseil approach or a swim from Blacksmith’s Zawn.
This route is approached along the traverse from the north and climbs the wall just before the tunnel route to Yellow wall and the ridge above.
1 40m. Climb straight up moving right below the overhang. Traverse left between the two overhangs then continue to broken ground and belay below the sharp arete.
2 21m. Climb the short steep wall on the right, move back left to the arete and climb the arete to belay on the ridge.
3 15m. Continue along the ridge to finish via a steep wall.
LE Holliwell, B Whybrow Jul 1971
The pinnacle in the bay is VS.
On the lighthouse face of the rock is an obvious groove capped by an overhang. start at the foot of the groove.
1 45 feet. Climb the curving chimney-corner on the left of the main groove to join it at a small stance.
2 75 feet. Follow the groove direct to the big overhang and exit on the left. Scramble to the top.
IG McNaught-Davies, A Alvarez, G Clarke 16 Oct 1966
A direct version of the previous route.
1 45 feet. Climb the groove direct.
2 80 feet. Follow Stochastic Groove to the overhang. Make a delicate traverse to the right under the overhang, following the obvious line of quartz, to the arete and belay.
3 55 feet. Climb the arete, trending left through the overhangs to easy ground.
C Bonington, M Thompson 4 June 1967
Cherish The Jug 60m E2 5b (R)
The short overhanging groove 6 metres right of the arête has a difficult move left past a bulge at the top. Continue up easier but rather loose ground, belaying as necessary, to the summit.
G. Smith, C. Waddy, T. Loxton (on-sight) 1999
Staggered 60m E3 5b (R)
2 metres right of Cherish the Jug, climb an open groove to a large spike. Step right into diagonal breaks then forge a line up and left through the overhang to join Cherish the Jug on the easier ground. Continue up this.
Andy Cave, Sean Myles, Greg Rimmer, Adam Wainwright (on-sight) 2000
1 15m 5b. Start as for The Callipygian Groove but continue directly left of the iguano flake to take a hanging belay at the start of the upper diagonal left to right traverse line.
2 35m 6a. Follow the jugs on the diagonal traverse line to re-join The Callipygian Groove below the crux and climb this to gain the belay. A nice rack, cams and extra mams useful.
3 10m. The Callipygian Groove p3.
Jack Geldard and Adam Wainwright Sep 2007
The Callipygian Groove E6 (R)
A good but serious climb taking the zig zag groove line above the centre of the sea arch.
1 10m. Gain the Iguano flake easily.
2 40m. 6a. Climb steeply rightwards up fins in the groove above the ledge to a niche. Follow the groove leftwards past a peg to a resting ledge. Continue up the groove above and wall to its right, past a block to a difficult pull onto the vegetated slab above. Go up and left to ledges and a belay.
3 10m. Follow a line of least resistance to the top and belay well back.
Callipygian means possessor of fine buttocks
Tonton’s Macoute E6 (R)
1 10m. Gain the Iguano flake belay.
2 20m. 6a/b Follow breaks and ledges easily into the zawn for 3 metres to reach diagonal breaks leading rightwards out over the apex of the zawn. Follow these breaks, steep and sandy, passing an in-situ Hex 11, to commence battle with fins leading to a resting niche. Move rightwards onto ledges and easier ground.
3 15m. Escape off rightwards.
George Smith on Rock of Ages. Photo Ray Wood from OTE magazine
Pre-Cambrian Wrestler E7 6b 23m (R)
Jack Geldard on Pre-Cambrian Wrestler. Photo copyright Dave Pickford
Start from the highest leftward ledge at the southern end of the channel between the rock and the promontory.
1 30 feet. From the keft hand end of the ledge, climb the steep chimney-groove to a platform.
2 60 feet. Follow the rightward slanting gangway and move left to belay under an overhang.
3 40 feet. Traverse left to the second little chimney, climb it and turn the final bulge on the right.
H Drasdo, N Drasdo, K Carr 30 March 1967
The following routes are on the mainland part of the cliff south of Penlas Rock.
2 pitches starting halfway down the gully.
D Durkan, D Williams 27 July 1967
2 pitches starting as for Nonentity then taking the wall to the left.
D Durkan, D Williams 2 Aug 1967
2 pitches up the obvious corner in the slabby wall on the other side of the zawn south of the col of Penlas Rock.
R Conway, CT Jones (AL) Mar 1968
Red Cracks VS (R) 60m
2 pitches up the red wall 100 yards south of Penlas Rock.
R Conway, CT Jones Mar 1968