Painted Wall. Photo James McHaffie https://twitter.com/McHaffieJames.
Easel-EE E7 6c (F8a) 30m.
Nige’s Arete E1 5a
Si Wilson, Clive Powell. (2003).
Darjeeling VS 5a
Maelstrom in a Teacup VS 4c
Coffee Black and Egg White HVS 5a
Cruel Sea Zawn
White Water Wall E2 5c 15m
About 200metres up the headland from the white arch is another arch/cave. Reached by scrambling around at low tide or abseil at high tide. Climb the obvious corner/groove up to a small roof, traverse right slightly to make hard moves up to regain the corner.
Paul Williams, T Jadwat 2/5/84
Generation Gap E1 5b
The Sea Shall Not Have Them HVS 5a
Grasp on Reality E1 5a
Tidal Threats E5 6a
Hanging Hippies HVS 5a
Indiana Fudge and The Tuck Shop of Doom VS
The White Arches
December Days VS
A Friend in Need VD
The Smiling Coastguard HVS 5a. 13m
The routes are described right to left from the approach path.
Friable and serious. One to do if you’ve ticked the others. Dave Durkin’s solo may impress!
Start near the shorter right hand side of the wall.
Navigate up a shallow corner to a small overhang. Gain the main groove and better gear to finish via the crack on the left.
Dave Durkin. Solo (18/11/1970)
A bolder version of The Savage Sunbird can be semi-tamed with micro-friends. Start below the groove in the arete. Climb the groove and move right to a bulge at 8m. Surmount this to a sloping ledge. Continue up the groove on the right to a perched block. Step left into a short corner, climb this and continue to the top.
Paul Williams, Jim Moran 8/5/84
The Cocktail Trip Direct E4 6a 37m
Stay on the arete all the way.
Direct Start: S Long 2000s. Direct Start & Finish: L Roberts, P Roberts July 2013
Spooky, but ‘all there’ climbing. If you enjoy a good stitch up, go elsewhere. You probably won’t fall off because you’ll fall in love with the hidden and devious nature of the climbing: magic! Start 2m left of The Cocktail Trip. Gain and climb the leaning groove right of Icarus.
A good eliminate linking Savage Sunbird into The Cocktail Trip. Previously E4 but now much more serious due to the deterioration of the pegs.
Jim Moran, Paul Williams, J Sonczak 2/6/84
Takahe E2 35m *
Start in the corner right of Icarus.
1 5a 22m. The obvious corner and narrow ramp just right of the Icarus start to join and belay on Icarus.
2 5b 13m. Continue to the right of Icarus to the top.
p1: Ian Lloyd-Jones and Clive Stephenson, 1990. Takahe is named after a flightless NZ bird
p2: Ian Lloyd-Jones 1990s
Rediscovered as Daedalus by T. Roberts and R. Hughes, 26/07/05.
A great adventure. Less intimidating than the main cliff adventures, but brilliant nonetheless. This route climbs the obvious ramp-line to a steep corner towards the right of the centre of the crag.
.Variation: VS 4c. Climb the left side of the large flake beneath The Sun. L Costello, D Durkan, 14/7/70
1 5a 20m. Takahe p1. Belay just right of the curving crack.
2 6b 20m. Climb the steep wall and step left to the curving crack, which is followed to bigger holds and a peg. Traverse 3 metres right and attack the steep finger crack.
Variation: 2a. E4 5c. Finish up the chimney of Big Boys.
Variation: 2b Direct E6 6a/b. Climb directly from the peg. D Garry 2011.
Sundance E2 5b 40m
Start up Takahe stepping left to the belay ledge at the foot of the leaning corner of Icarus. Move up the corner for 2m before following flakes descending leftwards to gain another flake leading to the overhang. Traverse left to finish up the chimney of Big Boys. Unclear exactly how this relates to Bigger Girls Variation 2a. They share common ground. E2 5b may well be a sandbag.
G Halliwell, D Sinclair 16/3/00
Don’t Cry E6 6b 30m
This bold and strenuous route is one for big boys only. Start as for Icarus. Climb the short flake crack then step right to another flake. Follow the arching groove to make difficult moves left and pull over the bulge. Continue up the groove on the right and bottomless chimney above to exit onto the last moves of The Sun.
J Moran, P Williams 8/5/84
Shine On You Crazy Diamond E5/6 6b 40m.
Intimidating, but mighty fine! The start eclipses many suitors, but once past this some fabulously steep jamming takes you to the heart of the sun. Start by accessing the ramp as for Icarus, and traverse left to where it is possible to make some difficult moves into the steep hanging corner. Carry on up this to reach a small but adequate podium (dance like you just don’t care?), before heading up easier ground to the top.
A stunning arete that is low in the grade. Start from as belay near the right end of the ledge. Gain the orange hourglass slab and climb this to the roof. Surmount this and continue up the left side of the arete to a small ledge and then the top.
Link Up: Warpath/ The Sun E3 5c
No Country for Young Men E7
Climbs the true arête of Warpath in 2 tough pitches. Start on the beach between Warpath and The Sun.
2. 6b 15m Step left to the obvious crack and place high runners before stepping back down to undercut across to grope for a low side-pull around thearête More side pulls lead fiercely up the arête past excellent micro wire placements leads to a long reach on crimps to a sharp jug. A final hard pull leads to the finishing holds and runners of Warpath. Phew!
p1 Twid Turner and Steve Long, June 2013 as Warpath Direct E6 6a. This ascent was done in a ground up style with Twid and Steve taking turns on the sharp end, and Steve making the final summit push. p2 Twid Turner and Steve Long, July 2015.
P Williams, T Jadwat 19/5/84
Step onto the sandy ledges and traverse a couple of feet to the right. Pull over a slight bulge onto the steep slab above and follow it to the large bay left of “The Mask..”. Climb the loose flakes and ledges in the corner until you are forced to swing left onto the “slender ramp” (The original line joins the ramp lower down somehow) Follow this to its end where an obvious horizontal break can be followed left to a fine position on the arete right of the Wild Rover slab. Layback the final corner using holds on the left.
D Durkan, L Costello 25/7/70
Conquistadores E2 5b 30m
Strikes a direct line through El Dorado. Climb over the overlap as for El Dorado, step left and up to a short corner. Climb this (microcams useful) to reach a ramp. Follow this to a junction with El Dorado just below its hand traverse. Move up and right to a ledge and finish up the hairy crack line.
Pete Johnson and Steve Long, 2014
Lacking Testicular Stature E4 6a 34m
The arete right of Mainlinin’
D Brown, N Thomas, M Falkirk 23/6/07
A serious direct on The Wild Rover. Climb the shallow groove right of The Wild Rover to join and follow this to the ledge below the groove. Climb the groove to join El Dorado on the finishing moves.
J Moran, P Williams 11/5/84
Crimpmeisters will love this. A bold but obvious start leads onto classic E1 edge climbing. Best done on a lazy afternoon. Start from the block and make a delicate move leftwards to gain the horizontal break at the bottom of the steep slab, where a hidden peg provides the first real gear. Move up and right towards the arete/rib, and follow this as closely as possible to a move left to gain a ledge below a groove, step left to finish up the centre of the wall past a flake.
D Durkan 5/8/70
Start up The Wild Rover for 10m to the horizontal break. Continue boldly up the centre of the wall to the finish of The Wild Rover.
P Williams, J Moran 10 May 1984
Waxwing E1 5b 28m
P Williams, J Moran 1984 ..
The left hand corner.
L Costello, D Durkan 1/8/70
Helios E5/6 6b 28m
Strenuous climbing via the cracks in the steep wall left of Cocaine.
P Littlejohn, T Jepson 11/2/89
1. 5b 10m Climb down spikes until a traverse right can be made to an obvious, grassy ledge in a groove.
2. 5c 15m Drop down and make a strenuous hand traverse across Helios to belay in the groove of Cocaine.
3. 5a 20m Move down and follow the horizontal crack to the arête (as for Wild Rover). Climb the ramp for a few metres then step across and down to the stance of Mask of Red Death.
4. 5b 15m Down climb Mask…until a traverse into the crack of Warpath can be made – follow this to the overhang and step right to belay in the groove of The Sun by a large spike.
5. 6a 25m drop down and traverse into the groove of Big Boys. Follow this to ledges on the right. Move up to the peg of Bigger Girls. Down climb the flake of Bigger Girls until a traverse right into the corner of Icarus can be made. (NB. The second can be protected with a back rope on good gear in the flake and a high runner in Icarus.)
6. 5b 25m Climb the Icarus corner for a few metres then traverse right on good holds, dropping slightly into the groove of Savage Sunbird. Continue rightwards passing through Cocktail Trip and Adrenaline to a loose finish.
Fallen Block Zawn
The routes are described left to right from the descent gully.View or Edit Fallen Block Zawn Topo
The obvious wide crack in the wall left of the descent gully.
L Costello June 1970
Start 3m right of Bagger’s Crack. Climb up the right sloping slab, move boldly leftwards and pull onto a small ledge. Go right again, up the ramp, then finish leftwards up good flakes.
R Wood, D Liddy 25/3/84
Start up a crack in the slab leading slightly right to a bulge. Climb the chimney to tottering flakes. Step down and left to a thin curving crack and finish up this.
D Durkan, N Shea, P Williams 21/9/70
The LHS of the large red slab right of the descent gully.
D Durkan 15/6/70
The central line.
D Durkan, D Earnshaw, J Barker 5 Aug 1970
D Durkan, D Birch 15/6/70
Drunk on Arrival E4 6a 30m
Start 5m left of the groove formed by the LHS of the fin. Climb the crack, pull through the roof and continue up the cracked groove on the left to the capping roof. Step left to finish via the groove through the roof.
R Kay, L McGinley 5 June 1988
The groove/ chimney formed by the LHS of the fin.
L Costello, D Durkan 19/7/70 (5 points aid). FFA J Moran, P Williams 27/5/84
Start as for EP Special and follow this through the off-width. Follow the weakness rightwards to a small ledge on the arete and finish easily up this.
Joe Healey, Paul Williams 23/5/84
The Jub-Jub Bird 30m E6 6b ***
Jim Moran on the first ascent of The Jub Jub Bird. Photo Paul Williams.
The Frumious Bandersnatch E7 6c ** 30m
Start below the fin as for The Jub-Jub Bird and follow this route up the crack and corner for approximately 5 metres until level with a down-pointing fang and slab beneath the second small overhang on the right arête. Pull right into the small overhang and then right again to get established on the arête and the face to the left of Godzilla. (Three ropes were used to climb this first section before ditching one rope after placing gear on the face and clipping it to another rope). Climb the arête and face direct (Bold) between The Jub-Jub Bird and Godzilla, until the large flake crack of Godzilla is reached (Phew). Follow the large flake crack of Godzilla to the jamming niche below the roof. Rest, breathe deep, arrange bomb-proof gear and try not to think about where you are about to launch. (The psychological crux) With no high runners in Godzilla, you will regret it as you do not want an ounce of rope drag for what is to come; pull left out of the niche onto the seriously overhanging wall by using those, oh-so-worrying, undercut-flakes. Clip a peg on the left. (The peg is good, although it is a small blade and doesn’t really settle the turmoil that is now threatening to explode your mind all over that lovely orange rock!). Undercut with much vigour hoping the holds don’t explode quicker than your biceps and make wild, no … make really wild moves up and left to a good rail in the middle of the face. Place gear in the slightly worrying booming rail before you reach a point of total meltdown and then layaway directly up to stand on the rail. Make a few very hard moves up by using small sloping crimps until a final dramatic throw, slightly left, for a very good hold can be made. If you are still there, and haven’t plunged into outer-space, one final hard move, with peddling feet and screaming mind, will establish you onto a more sane angle. A big breath can now be taken before you jibberwocky your way to the top of the fin. NB: This climb was successfully led on the second attempt. On the first attempt all gear was placed on lead and a monster lob was taken on the crux move near the top of the climb. The ropes were then pulled and after about 15 minutes I set off again without removing the gear, which was in place from the first attempt as we were on a time limit from the tide, and because the climb is so steep it is a pain to abseil and clean. Not the most perfect style but a style that is accepted.
Nick Bullock,Graham Desroy. 14th Aug 2011.
From Nick’s blog; http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/2011/08/16/the-frumious-bandersnatch/
Nick Bullock on the first ascent of The Frumious Bandersnatch. Photo Alastair Lee.
A genuine monster! Battle the monstous corner formed by the right wall of the fin.
Paul Williams, Joe Healey, Jim Moran 26/5/84
The Viper ** 40m E4 5c
Snakes up the overhangs right of Godzilla. Start between Godzilla and Centrefold, beneath the prominent diagonal crack. Gain and climb the crack to a hanging rock fang “the Viper’s Head”. Continue directly up the crack/ groove above. The original finish escapes right from the steeper section above. The direct finish continues up the steep crack before making a difficult step left across a small corner to finish precariously up the steep airy slab.
D Durkan, L Costello 5 pts aid 19/7/70. FFA via Direct Finish Jim Moran, Paul Williams 27/5/84
Vipeout 40 metres, E5 6b
Start as for The Viper. Follow The Viper around the the Viper’s Head, climb the tricky moves of The Viper right and a couple of moves up until protection in the wide crack can be placed. This is level with a hanging dagger to the left. Using a flake-blob on the left that looks like it will break (it’s actually pretty good). Steep moves left gain sidepulls and gear up high (hard to spot and place). Pull like a train until stood on the front face of the dagger. Climb the headwall between Godzilla and TheViper.
Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy 15/6/10
Centrefold *** 40m E3 5c
Contender for one of the best single pitch E3’s around. No idea why this route only got ** in the old guide. Big holds and loads of protection make it a safe proposition. It’s steep and sustained nature will however guarantee that most E2/3 climbers will be sweating like Cosmo Smallpiece reading the latest copy of Hustler by the time they top out. Start at the centre of the back wall behind the fallen blocks directly beneath the obvious groove of The Viper. Pull up into the groove (slippery hand jam) with difficulty (good but hidden runner up and right) Enter the groove on the right (awkward) and move up to a good rest under a left facing corner / crack / groove system. Follow this to the obvious overhang. Traverse right for a few feet and lay-way up to a break beneath a bulge. Try not to hang around here to long! Move up and left through the bulge. Still a long way to go – but the worst (or best?) is over. Undercut right to a groove and follow this with interest to the top.
Jim Moran, Paul Williams 5/5/84
Full Frontal Finish E3 5c 40m
Paul Williams, Trevor Hodgson 24/4/88
Wet Dreams E5 6c 11m
The direct start to Dreams n Screams through the roof.
Craig Smith 29/6/86
Dreams n Screams E6 6b 41m
What a pumper! Just because its been on-sighted by a girl doesn’t mean it’s an easy ride. The central ever-steepening crack line is awesome. Start as for Magellan’s Wall.
1. 5b. Climb steeply onto the face and move right to belay at the base of the cracks.
2. 6b. Blast quickly up the cracks, saving energy for the upper section. Soon, the holds deteriorate and the angle steepens, oh my god, keep going! If your head’s not throbbing, there is a choice: shimmy out left or climb direct, neither a soft option. If you’re still going, flounder wildly over the lip to victory.
Jim Moran, Paul Williams 11/5/84
Gimble in the Wabe E7 6b
Big, bold moves up the centre of the golden wall. Start from the hanging belay at the bottom of Dreams and Screams. Follow Magellan’s Wall, past the ledge to gain a diagonal pod. Pull up and left to gain the long break. Arrange protection, draw your vorpal sword and slay your way up the steepness above to a spike pocket. Blind, bold moves lead rightwards to an undercut flake (crucial medium cam). Pumped and concerned, make fingery crux moves onto the slab above and exit rightwards with much relief.
Alex Mason 14/9/14. “I think the route will become quite popular as it’s relatively safe and now the rock is fairly stable it should make a great onsight/ground-up proposition with difficulties around 7b/R.” Second ascent flashed by Oli Grounsell the same day.
Alex Mason on the fingery crux moves onto the upper slab of Gimble in The Wabe E7 6b Photo: Jemma Powell.
Magellan’s Wall E5 48m
Jim Moran, Paul Williams 10/5/84
The Motombo E3 45m
Start in the very back of the cave.
1 30m 5c. Climb up the side of the block. Escape rightwards to back and foot outwards to the end of the hanging chimney. Continue rightwards and out to gain a large jug on the lip. Layback the flakes above to reach a belay.
2 15m 5a. The overhanging pod leads to a crack in the slab right of Magellan’s Wall.
Paul Williams, Trevor Hodgson 24/4/88
Access the next routes by seal-level traversing from the Fallen Block Zawn descent gully. The routes are described right to left.
Tomorrow is Reinstated E1 5b 25m
Start below the diagonal crack in the headwall left of Baggers Crack. Climb up to the cracks, move right and pull over the roof. Finish up the wall above.
E Jones, L Lovatt 17/4/84
Aquaseal E1 5b 25m
The right arete of the black slabby wall right of the sea cave.
M Barnicott, P Williams 27/4/88
Ciment Fondue E2 5b 25m
The wall between the crack and the arete.
M Barnicott, P Williams 27/4/88
Triffids VS 4c 25m
The crack in the centre of the black slabby wall right of the sea cave.
L Lovatt D liddy 14/3/84
Tetrion E1 5a 25m
The wall between the crack and the corner on the left.
M Barnicott, P Williams 27/4/88
Tomorrow Has Been Cancelled (Due to Lack of Interest) VS 4c 25m
The corner on the left of the black slab right of the sea cave.
L Costello D Durkan 22/7/70
Wellectic E4 6a 25m
The black streak in the orange wall right of the corner.
T Hodgson, M Barnicott, P Williams 27/4/88
Into the Deep E2 5b 25m
Takes the wall right of the left arete of Eric.
C Parkin, P Blackburn 1986
Eric E1 5b 25m
Start left of the corner at an overhung triangular niche. Climb the thin crack leftwards to a groove guarded by an overhang. Climb this (crux) to finish up the right arete.
R Wood, D Liddy 16/3/84. Rediscovered as Cape of Good Hope by C Waddy, 1988.
The rib immediately right of Round of Horn. “It’s fine at first but then you encounter a few fairly dangerous moves before joining the easy top of Round the Horn”.
Calum Muskett 14/6/11.
This route is based around the prominent hanging fin “the horn”. Start right of the cave.
1 22m 6a. 3m left of a square groove is a roof. Climb this and the vague groove to another roof. Step left to “the horn” and circumnavigate this to gain the bottomless chimney which leads to the belay ledge.
2 15m 4c. Finish up the corner.
C Waddy, T Hodgson 25/4/88
White Lightning E6 F7b+ S0 DWS
A spectacular journey inside the cave. From the start of Round the Horn, traverse left into the cave inside a hanging curtain of rock. Gain the front of the curtain and undercut rightwards then jam into the closed chimney above. Swing wildly through the gap between the 2 massive hanging fins on masssive jugs to a good rest. Continue rightwards on big holds before making a hard move up to undecuts which can be followed out to the lip.
Dan McManus 14/6/11
The following routes are described right to left from the left hand side of the sea cave.
Electric Blue 35m E4 5c *** Link to video
Stevie Haston, T.Saunders, 1983
Galleon E4 5c 43m
Start as for Electric Blue past the crux. Continue traversing above the lip to an obvious ledge, possible belay. Finish up the loose wide chimney..
Strenuous and fairly serious clmibing up the wall left of the cave.
Dave Towse, W Rees 14 March 84. Rediscovered as Insane, Insane Again by L Clark and R Dean later in 1984.
The slab in the break left of the sea cave.
D Durkan 29/1/70
Bulges and groove right of Solo Slab.
D Durkan (solo) 29/1/70
The quartz vein in the LHS of the next bay.
Takes a line on the overhanging wall 30m left of the sea cave.
R Wood, D Liddy 16/3/84
The corner formed where the headland abuitts the back wall of the zawn.
After the Picnic VS 4b 18m
Start right of Hi, Jack! Climb the leftwards rising flakes past Fan Fare to finish above Symphony Crack.
R Lewis, N Jones, T Bell 6/6/2008
Start above and right of Fan Fare. Climb diagonally right up the gully wall to take a line of flakes up the wall to finish by two protruding flakes.
M Edwards, C Johns 25/4/88
The black streaks and short crack in the gully wall.
R Wood, D Liddy 1984
Thin cracks and pockets left of the black streaks in the gully wall.
M Edwards 25/4/88
The steep groove.
J Moran, P Williams 5 May 1984
Symphony Crack Diff
This has to be one of the best routes of its grade – traverse in right wards from the end of the point. belay at the foot of the open corner and climb this to the top, an atmospheric route.
D Durkan, J Baker 29/01/70
Variation: Serpent HVS 5b. Start up Symphony Crack then climb the right arete.
Toccata Crack VD 15m
Follow the curving crack rightwards to the finish of Symphony Crack.
D Durkan 1970.
Traverse rightwards (facing out) from the end of the Symphony Crack headland.
Crack and Corner VD 15m
The first groove found on the traverse from the end of the headland.
L Costello (solo) June 1970.
A left hand finish to Crack and Corner, finishing up the arete.
It is unclear how the following 2 routes relate to Paul Barbier’s Route but it appears likely that one of them takes the same line
From Dusk Till Dawn E3 6a 17m
Paul Barbier’s Route E3 10m
The short steep arete at the entrance to the zawn.
Paul Barbier, Ian McNeill, Dominic Travers 1990/1 (done same day as Billy the Mountain).
From the base of the arete, climb up and rightwards to a niche and finish up the headwall.
S Jones, J Ratcliffe 22/6/98.
Billy the Mountain E1 5b 9m
Just below the step and to the right of the point is a steep wall which leads to an overhanging wall. Billy takes the obvious crack centre of the wall.
Ian McNeill, Paul Barbier, Dominic Travers 1990/1
Dark Reflections E7 6b 23m.
Slit Yer Wrists E4 6a 20m.
In the next zawn;Blackbits HS 20m
Steep black corners followed by the corner of the slab.
D. Liddy solo March 1984.
Twilight Passage VS 20m
Climb the chimney 5m left of Blackbits. Finish up slab and crack.
R Wood solo March 1984.
The Lookout Crags
A.Newton, M.Crook. (30/7/95).
Pleasant route Severe 17m
Up right side of buttress via white quartz vein, pulling over a bulge at half height.
The right hand corner of the zawn to finish via the quartzy slab on the left.
A. Newton, M Wilson, R Hall July 1997.
The Red Wedge
25 Years of Cellulite E2 5b 30m.
Frazer Bull, Owen Hayward, Dave Barker. (23/5/90). Rediscovered as Rechtsclinger by M.Crook, R.Wood, Feb 96.
Saltheart E5 6b 20m.
Betty Swollocks E2 5b 20m.
Climb the wall left of Saltheart.
Owen Hayward, Jayne Anthoine May 1990
2 25m. 5b. Go up and rightwards to the wall and follow folded rock straight up. Move leftwards when the rock runs out onto vegetated rock and a grass cornice. Finish in the cutting area and belay in rabbit burrows. (Belay stake now in place – Reduce E grade by leaving a rope down grass from this).
From Arrogance to Impotence E2/3
1 22m. 5c. Start just left of a shallow corner. Slippery at first – follow a rising traverse leftwards without much protection, but all easy enough, to a rounded ledge. Awkward moves beyond this gain more broken rock and easier climbing to a notch on the arête and a belay.
2 25m. 5b/c. Move round the arête onto a worrying ledge and follow this into the corner. Step onto the left wall traverse easily – good protection stuffed rigorously into Drink Your Hemlock Mr Portillo. Step down and continue the traverse over a small stream (or larger waterfall, depending on conditions) to reach vegetated ledges alongside the top of wide folded cracks, large cam. Finish joyfully up steep grass by two embedded boulders – stake belay.