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Rhoscolyn | North Wales Climbs

Rhoscolyn

This section of the crag is situated north of the main crag, with Painted Wall being the most obvious to find, and being located in the boulder strewn beach in the first large bay some 400m past the Electric Blue zawn. The crag is the obvious overhanging wall at the north end of the beach, and is non-tidal100m further north on a small headland is Crag X. This is an awesome beginners venue. More like Stanage-on-sea, with lots of easy top rope routes. Beyond this some further 400m north along the cliff the obvious White Arch lies.
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Porth Saint
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Painted Wall
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Painted wall, Crag X and White Arches - Gogarth
Painted Wall. Photo James McHaffie https://twitter.com/McHaffieJames.
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Surreal Appeal E7 6c 30m.
Start left of centre on the wall. Climb up onto the grass eyebrow and right to the rightward trending weakness. Pass 7 pegs (some better than others) to reach the easier but still interesting top out. Cams useful to belay.
Mike Twid Turner, Louise Thomas (1996). Second ascent on-sighted by James McHaffie, 2015.
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Easel-EE E7 6c (F8a) 30m.
Start in the centre of the wall, at its lowest point. Follow the rising line of pegs up and left to join Surreal Appeal at it’s crux. Follow this to the top. Hardly a sport route! Doesn’t get wet.
Mike Twid Turner, Louise Thomas (1996).
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Crag X
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A brilliant beginners crag that should be a must for any novice climber wanting an ‘easy’ introducion to sea cliff climbing. Many routes are described in the Gogarth South guide. This cliff has been seen by many as insignificant, but don’t be put off or get too excited all the major lines and less major ones have been climbed. This crag can have a wild feel on the wrong days.
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Painted wall, Crag X and White Arches - Gogarth

The obvious white sea arch, 400m or so north of Crag X.
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Nige’s Arete E1 5a
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The Vipper E1 5b 13m.
On the section of rock just before (coming from the main area) the bay containing The Cruel Sea, defined on the other side by a square cut bay with a sea level platform at the other end. The route goes just left of the impressive arête that overhangs in it’s last 2 metres. Start about 4 metres left of the arête beneath twin cracks. Ascend these to a ledge and step right to beneath the impending corner-crack, 1 metre from the arête. Ascend this, with a hard move to gain the corner, and finish abruptly on top.
Si Wilson, Clive Powell. (2003).
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Darjeeling VS 5a
Maelstrom in a Teacup VS 4c
Coffee Black and Egg White HVS 5a
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Cruel Sea Zawn
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The Mutiny VS 4b/c
Front of buttress around left of The Cruel Sea. Climb twin cracks on bottomless slab and up the weird rock above. Serious at the grade.
Andy Newton, Kath Griffiths. (20/8/91)
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White Water Wall E2 5c 15m
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The Cruel Sea**HVS 5b 15m
About 200metres up the headland from the white arch is another arch/cave. Reached by scrambling around at low tide or abseil at high tide. Climb the obvious corner/groove up to a small roof, traverse right slightly to make hard moves up to regain the corner.
Paul Williams, T Jadwat 2/5/84
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Generation Gap E1 5b
The Sea Shall Not Have Them HVS 5a
Grasp on Reality E1 5a
Tidal Threats E5 6a
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Hanging Hippies HVS 5a
Indiana Fudge and The Tuck Shop of Doom VS
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The White Arches
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Missing Presumed Dead E5 6b 25m ***
Start from sea washed ledges, reachable from mid to low tide. Climb the superbly protected line underneath the arch, trending rightwards along a rock scar past some pitons, to a rather loose but safe finish. Well protected throughout.
George Smith, T.D.Bonner. 5/1990. Repeated by Mike Twid Turner and Noel Craine.
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December Days VS
A Friend in Need VD
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Smiley Rock
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Between the church parking and the Holyhead road on the Rhoscolyn road, by a school, is a small outcrop with a large rock balanced on top. The next two routes lie on the right side of the obvious wall.
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Jethro’s Route VS 4c 13m
Takes the arête, moving into a crack.
Jethro Kiernan, J.Simpson. (16/6/90).
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The Smiling Coastguard HVS 5a. 13m
Move leftwards after peg.
Jethro Kiernan, J.Simpson. (16/6/90).

Llawder Zawn

 

Rhoscolyn - Llawder, fallen block, Sea Cave - Gogarth
 
Llawder
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A comical name dreamt up by one of the early climbers there; not as you might think a word derived from the Welsh language, but simply ‘red wall’ spelt backwards.
This fine area has many excellent routes that span nearly the complete grade range. A more friendly feel than many sections of Gogarth, combined with a southerly aspect and easy access make this a popular area for climbers
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The routes are described right to left from the approach path.
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Adrenalin E3 5c 15m
Friable and serious. One to do if you’ve ticked the others. Dave Durkin’s solo may impress!
Start near the shorter right hand side of the wall.
Navigate up a shallow corner to a small overhang. Gain the main groove and better gear to finish via the crack on the left.
Dave Durkin. Solo (18/11/1970)
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The Cocktail Trip E4 5c 37m
A bolder version of The Savage Sunbird can be semi-tamed with micro-friends. Start below the groove in the arete. Climb the groove and move right to a bulge at 8m. Surmount this to a sloping ledge. Continue up the groove on the right to a perched block. Step left into a short corner, climb this and continue to the top.
Paul Williams, Jim Moran 8/5/84
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The Cocktail Trip Direct E4 6a 37m
Stay on the arete all the way.
Direct Start: S Long 2000s. Direct Start & Finish: L Roberts, P Roberts July 2013
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The Savage Sunbird E2 5b ** 37m
Spooky, but ‘all there’ climbing. If you enjoy a good stitch up, go elsewhere. You probably won’t fall off because you’ll fall in love with the hidden and devious nature of the climbing: magic! Start 2m left of The Cocktail Trip. Gain and climb the leaning groove right of Icarus.
Paul Williams, G.Peters. 20 May 1984
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Medicine Man E5 6a 35m
A good eliminate linking Savage Sunbird into The Cocktail Trip. Previously E4 but now much more serious due to the deterioration of the pegs.
Jim Moran, Paul Williams, J Sonczak 2/6/84
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Takahe E2 35m *
Start in the corner right of Icarus.
5a 22m. The obvious corner and narrow ramp just right of the Icarus start to join and belay on Icarus.
5b 13m. Continue to the right of Icarus to the top.
p1: Ian Lloyd-Jones and Clive Stephenson, 1990. Takahe is named after a flightless NZ bird
p2: Ian Lloyd-Jones 1990s
Rediscovered as Daedalus by T. Roberts and R. Hughes, 26/07/05.
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Icarus HVS 40m **
A great adventure. Less intimidating than the main cliff adventures, but brilliant nonetheless. This route climbs the obvious ramp-line to a steep corner towards the right of the centre of the crag.
P.Buxton, D.Durkan, 1969
.Variation: VS 4c. Climb the left side of the large flake beneath The Sun. L Costello, D Durkan, 14/7/70
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Bigger Girls E5 40m
Climbs the wall right of Big Boys. Start at a groove, 8 metres right of the start of The Sun.
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 5a 20m. Takahe p1. Belay just right of the curving crack.
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 6b 20m. Climb the steep wall and step left to the curving crack, which is followed to bigger holds and a peg. Traverse 3 metres right and attack the steep finger crack.
Mike Twid Turner, Graham McMahon (1997).
Variation: 2a. E4 5c. Finish up the chimney of Big Boys.
Variation: 2b Direct E6 6a/b. Climb directly from the peg. D Garry 2011.
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Sundance E2 5b 40m
Start up Takahe stepping left to the belay ledge at the foot of the leaning corner of Icarus. Move up the corner for 2m before following flakes descending leftwards to gain another flake leading to the overhang. Traverse left to finish up the chimney of Big Boys. Unclear exactly how this relates to Bigger Girls Variation 2a. They share common ground. E2 5b may well be a sandbag.
G Halliwell, D Sinclair 16/3/00
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Don’t Cry E6 6b 30m
Start as for Big Boys and after 8 metres, instead of going left, move right to a peg. Climb direct to join the base of the upper groove. Snappy.
Mike Twid Turner, Louise Thomas. (1997)
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Big Boys E5 6a 30m
This bold and strenuous route is one for big boys only. Start as for Icarus. Climb the short flake crack then step right to another flake. Follow the arching groove to make difficult moves left and pull over the bulge. Continue up the groove on the right and bottomless chimney above to exit onto the last moves of The Sun.
J Moran, P Williams 8/5/84
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Shine On You Crazy Diamond E5/6 6b 40m.
Takes the steep crack to the right of The Sun past three pegs at the bulge. The strong will continue to join The Sun for the final 20m. Amazingly steep climbing with excellent moves.
Ian Lloyd-Jones. (24/8/90)
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The Sun E3 44m ***
Intimidating, but mighty fine! The start eclipses many suitors, but once past this some fabulously steep jamming takes you to the heart of the sun. Start by accessing the ramp as for Icarus, and traverse left to where it is possible to make some difficult moves into the steep hanging corner. Carry on up this to reach a small but adequate podium (dance like you just don’t care?), before heading up easier ground to the top.
P.Williams, J.Moran, 1984
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For the next few routes you need to make a sea level traverse below the crag for 30 metres to where it is possible to carefully scramble up broken ground to a grassy ledge below an obvious steep slab. A small block provides a belay, whilst soft grass and sea thrift provides a comfy seat
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Warpath E5 6a 38m ***
A stunning arete that is low in the grade. Start from as belay near the right end of the ledge. Gain the orange hourglass slab and climb this to the roof. Surmount this and continue up the left side of the arete to a small ledge and then the top.
J Moran, P Williams 12/5/84
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Link Up: Warpath/ The Sun E3 5c
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No Country for Young Men E7
Climbs the true arête of Warpath in 2 tough pitches. Start on the beach between Warpath and The Sun.

1. 6a/b. 23m. A stunning E6 direct start to Warpath blasts straight up the steep arête left of The Sun to join the parent route. Climb up the big ears on the arete between the two routes. The obvious cracks gain a good resting knee bar before the steep arete. Good gear here. Climb with more challenging moves till the angle eases and you join Warpath at the arete/roof. Traverse right to a good belay at the small ledge on The Sun. The climbing is run out and gear hard won at times. Surprisingly independent climbing and some nice moves. Quite sporty for a while. Makes Warpath a good E6.
2. 6b 15m Step left to the obvious crack and place high runners before stepping back down to undercut across to grope for a low side-pull around thearête More side pulls lead fiercely up the arête past excellent micro wire placements leads to a long reach on crimps to a sharp jug. A final hard pull leads to the finishing holds and runners of Warpath. Phew!
p1 Twid Turner and Steve Long, June 2013 as Warpath Direct E6 6a. This ascent was done in a ground up style with Twid and Steve taking turns on the sharp end, and Steve making the final summit push. p2 Twid Turner and Steve Long, July 2015.
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The Mask of the Red Death E3 5c **
Best started from the deck just to the left of The Sun, enabling one big 40m pitch to give the full ‘death mask’ effect (take plenty of long slings). Start as for Warpath to gain the orange hourglass slab. Step down and left into a groove and climb this to a large horizontal crack. Pull over the bulge to a small ledge and optional belay. Step right and climb the sustained and exposed crack splitting the headwall.
P Williams, T Jadwat 19/5/84
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El Dorado HVS 33m
Step onto the sandy ledges and traverse a couple of feet to the right. Pull over a slight bulge onto the steep slab above and follow it to the large bay left of “The Mask..”. Climb the loose flakes and ledges in the corner until you are forced to swing left onto the “slender ramp” (The original line joins the ramp lower down somehow) Follow this to its end where an obvious horizontal break can be followed left to a fine position on the arete right of the Wild Rover slab. Layback the final corner using holds on the left.
D Durkan, L Costello 25/7/70
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Conquistadores E2 5b 30m
Strikes a direct line through El Dorado. Climb over the overlap as for El Dorado, step left and up to a short corner. Climb this (microcams useful) to reach a ramp. Follow this to a junction with El Dorado just below its hand traverse. Move up and right to a ledge and finish up the hairy crack line.
Pete Johnson and Steve Long, 2014
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Lacking Testicular Stature E4 6a 34m
The arete right of Mainlinin’
D Brown, N Thomas, M Falkirk 23/6/07
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Mainlinin’ E4 6a 30m
A serious direct on The Wild Rover. Climb the shallow groove right of The Wild Rover to join and follow this to the ledge below the groove. Climb the groove to join El Dorado on the finishing moves.
J Moran, P Williams 11/5/84
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The Wild Rover E1 5b **
Crimpmeisters will love this. A bold but obvious start leads onto classic E1 edge climbing. Best done on a lazy afternoon. Start from the block and make a delicate move leftwards to gain the horizontal break at the bottom of the steep slab, where a hidden peg provides the first real gear. Move up and right towards the arete/rib, and follow this as closely as possible to a move left to gain a ledge below a groove, step left to finish up the centre of the wall past a flake.
D Durkan 5/8/70
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Little Queenie E1 5b * 30m
Start up The Wild Rover for 10m to the horizontal break. Continue boldly up the centre of the wall to the finish of The Wild Rover.
P Williams, J Moran 10 May 1984
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Waxwing E1 5b 28m
Start up The Wild Rover for 10m to the horizontal break. Traverse left into Cocaine and finish up this.
P Williams, J Moran 1984 ..
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Cocaine E1 5b 28m
The left hand corner.
L Costello, D Durkan 1/8/70
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Helios E5/6 6b 28m
Strenuous climbing via the cracks in the steep wall left of Cocaine.
P Littlejohn, T Jepson 11/2/89
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Rhos Beef E4
A left to right traverse of Llawder. A meaty route best undertaken on a hot sunny day to achieve the ‘full roast’ flavour. Start at the top of the far seaward side of the crag at a shallow, flat alcove.
1. 5b 10m Climb down spikes until a traverse right can be made to an obvious, grassy ledge in a groove.
2. 5c 15m Drop down and make a strenuous hand traverse across Helios to belay in the groove of Cocaine.
3. 5a 20m Move down and follow the horizontal crack to the arête (as for Wild Rover). Climb the ramp for a few metres then step across and down to the stance of Mask of Red Death.
4. 5b 15m Down climb Mask…until a traverse into the crack of Warpath can be made – follow this to the overhang and step right to belay in the groove of The Sun by a large spike.
5. 6a 25m drop down and traverse into the groove of Big Boys. Follow this to ledges on the right. Move up to the peg of Bigger Girls. Down climb the flake of Bigger Girls until a traverse right into the corner of Icarus can be made. (NB. The second can be protected with a back rope on good gear in the flake and a high runner in Icarus.)
6. 5b 25m Climb the Icarus corner for a few metres then traverse right on good holds, dropping slightly into the groove of Savage Sunbird. Continue rightwards passing through Cocktail Trip and Adrenaline to a loose finish.
P1 – P4 P Johnson, M Turner AL 17.07.14, P5 – P6 M Turner, P Johnson AL 21.07.14
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[Untitled]
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Fallen Block Zawn
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This area is easily accessed two or more hours after high tide. By traversing easily along ledges just above sea level to a scramble over the headland to a zawn full of large ‘fallen’ blocks. Some of the routes require a calm sea or low spring tides to access.
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The routes are described left to right from the descent gully.View or Edit Fallen Block Zawn Topo

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Bagger’s Crack S 22m
The obvious wide crack in the wall left of the descent gully.
L Costello June 1970
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Human Camel VS 5a 22m
Start 3m right of Bagger’s Crack. Climb up the right sloping slab, move boldly leftwards and pull onto a small ledge. Go right again, up the ramp, then finish leftwards up good flakes.
R Wood, D Liddy 25/3/84
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The Trip VS 30m
Start up a crack in the slab leading slightly right to a bulge. Climb the chimney to tottering flakes. Step down and left to a thin curving crack and finish up this.
D Durkan, N Shea, P Williams 21/9/70
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Jack of All Trades VS 4c 30m.
Start 4 metres right of The Trip, below a narrow wall with a grey overhang at its base. Climb through the overhang to the left. Then climb trending right away from the system of cracks. Finish straight up, the angle and difficulties easing, to join The Trip at its belay.
Spike Green, Tim Child and Hull University. (1998)
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Sh!tehawk Alley D 36m
The LHS of the large red slab right of the descent gully.
D Durkan 15/6/70
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Sea Shanty VS 37m
The central line.
D Durkan, D Earnshaw, J Barker 5 Aug 1970
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Truant VS 35m
The corner formed by the RHS of the slab.
D Durkan, D Birch 15/6/70
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Truant Right Hand E2 5b 23m
From the top of the first pitch of Truant, a deep recess with suspect protection (take at least three slings) trends up diagonally rightwards across the black headwall. Follow the recess past a couple of suspect spike runners to an obvious tooth, spike runner, where the recess steepens. Carefully pull over the tooth to land on a small ledge, junction with Drunk on Arrival. Finish up the overhanging corner, crux, with good runners
L Costello, L Griffin, 1973. Rediscovered as Don’t tell Gareth by Simon Wilson, Helen Bailey (25/7/96).
The Aberconders’ Finish HVS 5b 48m.
A superb alternative finish to Truant. Well protected and photogenic.
1.15m. Follow the corner of Truant to a large ledge which cuts across the slab from the left at about half height. Belay in the recess.
2. 33m. Move up the slab on the left for a couple of metres, then using two large pockets, ascend the steep wall on the right to traverse a red-coloured slab into the groove of E.P.Special. Move up this until a prominent undercut flake enables an exposed traverse to the right to the arête of the fin. Climb this to finish on the saddle.
Donald King, Bob Llewelyn. (11/10/98)
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Drunk on Arrival E4 6a 30m
Start 5m left of the groove formed by the LHS of the fin. Climb the crack, pull through the roof and continue up the cracked groove on the left to the capping roof. Step left to finish via the groove through the roof.
R Kay, L McGinley 5 June 1988
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EP Special E3 6a 36m
The groove/ chimney formed by the LHS of the fin.
L Costello, D Durkan 19/7/70 (5 points aid). FFA J Moran, P Williams 27/5/84
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The Trail of Tears E4 6a 36m
Start as for EP Special and follow this through the off-width. Follow the weakness rightwards to a small ledge on the arete and finish easily up this.
Joe Healey, Paul Williams 23/5/84
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The Jub-Jub Bird 30m E6 6b ***

This fantastic route takes the amazing fin. Climb the flake in the right hand side of the pillar to a good shake out and protection (junction with Godzilla). Undercut leftwards on small flakes (that take small cams) to a poor shake-out and an outrageous position on the arête, peg runner and other gear. Start laybacking like you’re pulling a rapist off your mother. Don’t stop.
Jim Moran, Paul Williams and J.Sonczak, 4 June 1984, “the third man fell off at the start of the traverse and swung so far out to sea that he came back with an Irish accent”. Second ascent Martin Atkinson and Mike Raine 6 Oct 1984. Has had its fair share of impressive flashes and spectacular failures.
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[Untitled]
Jim Moran on the first ascent of The Jub Jub Bird. Photo Paul Williams.
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The Frumious Bandersnatch 
E7 6c ** 30m
Start below the fin as for The Jub-Jub Bird and follow this route up the crack and corner for approximately 5 metres until level with a down-pointing fang and slab beneath the second small overhang on the right arête. Pull right into the small overhang and then right again to get established on the arête and the face to the left of Godzilla. (Three ropes were used to climb this first section before ditching one rope after placing gear on the face and clipping it to another rope). Climb the arête and face direct (Bold) between The Jub-Jub Bird and Godzilla, until the large flake crack of Godzilla is reached (Phew). Follow the large flake crack of Godzilla to the jamming niche below the roof. Rest, breathe deep, arrange bomb-proof gear and try not to think about where you are about to launch. (The psychological crux) With no high runners in Godzilla, you will regret it as you do not want an ounce of rope drag for what is to come; pull left out of the niche onto the seriously overhanging wall by using those, oh-so-worrying, undercut-flakes. Clip a peg on the left. (The peg is good, although it is a small blade and doesn’t really settle the turmoil that is now threatening to explode your mind all over that lovely orange rock!). Undercut with much vigour hoping the holds don’t explode quicker than your biceps and make wild, no … make really wild moves up and left to a good rail in the middle of the face. Place gear in the slightly worrying booming rail before you reach a point of total meltdown and then layaway directly up to stand on the rail. Make a few very hard moves up by using small sloping crimps until a final dramatic throw, slightly left, for a very good hold can be made. If you are still there, and haven’t plunged into outer-space, one final hard move, with peddling feet and screaming mind, will establish you onto a more sane angle. A big breath can now be taken before you jibberwocky your way to the top of the fin. NB: This climb was successfully led on the second attempt. On the first attempt all gear was placed on lead and a monster lob was taken on the crux move near the top of the climb. The ropes were then pulled and after about 15 minutes I set off again without removing the gear, which was in place from the first attempt as we were on a time limit from the tide, and because the climb is so steep it is a pain to abseil and clean. Not the most perfect style but a style that is accepted.
Nick Bullock,Graham Desroy. 14th Aug 2011.
From Nick’s blog; http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/2011/08/16/the-frumious-bandersnatch/
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Rhoscolyn - Llawder, fallen block, Sea Cave - Gogarth
Nick Bullock on the first ascent of The Frumious Bandersnatch. Photo Alastair Lee.
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Godzilla * 40m E4 5c
A genuine monster! Battle the monstous corner formed by the right wall of the fin.
Paul Williams, Joe Healey, Jim Moran 26/5/84
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The Viper ** 40m E4 5c
Snakes up the overhangs right of Godzilla. Start between Godzilla and Centrefold, beneath the prominent diagonal crack. Gain and climb the crack to a hanging rock fang “the Viper’s Head”. Continue directly up the crack/ groove above. The original finish escapes right from the steeper section above. The direct finish continues up the steep crack before making a difficult step left across a small corner to finish precariously up the steep airy slab.
D Durkan, L Costello 5 pts aid 19/7/70. FFA via Direct Finish Jim Moran, Paul Williams 27/5/84
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Vipeout 40 metres, E5 6b
Start as for The Viper. Follow The Viper around the the Viper’s Head, climb the tricky moves of The Viper right and a couple of moves up until protection in the wide crack can be placed. This is level with a hanging dagger to the left. Using a flake-blob on the left that looks like it will break (it’s actually pretty good). Steep moves left gain sidepulls and gear up high (hard to spot and place). Pull like a train until stood on the front face of the dagger. Climb the headwall between Godzilla and TheViper.
Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy 15/6/10
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Centrefold *** 40m E3 5c
Contender for one of the best single pitch E3’s around. No idea why this route only got ** in the old guide. Big holds and loads of protection make it a safe proposition. It’s steep and sustained nature will however guarantee that most E2/3 climbers will be sweating like Cosmo Smallpiece reading the latest copy of Hustler by the time they top out. Start at the centre of the back wall behind the fallen blocks directly beneath the obvious groove of The Viper. Pull up into the groove (slippery hand jam) with difficulty (good but hidden runner up and right) Enter the groove on the right (awkward) and move up to a good rest under a left facing corner / crack / groove system. Follow this to the obvious overhang. Traverse right for a few feet and lay-way up to a break beneath a bulge. Try not to hang around here to long! Move up and left through the bulge. Still a long way to go – but the worst (or best?) is over. Undercut right to a groove and follow this with interest to the top.
Jim Moran, Paul Williams 5/5/84
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Full Frontal Finish E3 5c 40m
Alternatively (for those who haven’t broken into sweat) the arête right of the final groove can be followed.
Paul Williams, Trevor Hodgson 24/4/88
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Wet Dreams E5 6c 11m
The direct start to Dreams n Screams through the roof.
Craig Smith 29/6/86
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Dreams n Screams E6 6b 41m
What a pumper! Just because its been on-sighted by a girl doesn’t mean it’s an easy ride. The central ever-steepening crack line is awesome. Start as for Magellan’s Wall.
1. 5b. Climb steeply onto the face and move right to belay at the base of the cracks.
2. 6b. Blast quickly up the cracks, saving energy for the upper section. Soon, the holds deteriorate and the angle steepens, oh my god, keep going! If your head’s not throbbing, there is a choice: shimmy out left or climb direct, neither a soft option. If you’re still going, flounder wildly over the lip to victory.
Jim Moran, Paul Williams 11/5/84
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Gimble in the Wabe E7 6b
Big, bold moves up the centre of the golden wall. Start from the hanging belay at the bottom of Dreams and Screams. Follow Magellan’s Wall, past the ledge to gain a diagonal pod. Pull up and left to gain the long break. Arrange protection, draw your vorpal sword and slay your way up the steepness above to a spike pocket. Blind, bold moves lead rightwards to an undercut flake (crucial medium cam). Pumped and concerned, make fingery crux moves onto the slab above and exit rightwards with much relief.
Alex Mason 14/9/14. “I think the route will become quite popular as it’s relatively safe and now the rock is fairly stable it should make a great onsight/ground-up proposition with difficulties around 7b/R.” Second ascent flashed by Oli Grounsell the same day.
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Rhoscolyn - Llawder, fallen block, Sea Cave - Gogarth
Alex Mason on the fingery crux moves onto the upper slab of Gimble in The Wabe E7 6b Photo: Jemma Powell.
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2014/09/15/gimble-in-the-wadi-e7-6b-%E2%80%93-stunning-new-route-at-rhoscolyn-from-alex-mason/
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Magellan’s Wall E5 48m
Beware the sting in the tail. Yes, you can hang around for ages, but that won’t get you to the top! A bold voyage!
Jim Moran, Paul Williams 10/5/84
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The Motombo E3 45m
Start in the very back of the cave.
1 30m 5c. Climb up the side of the block. Escape rightwards to back and foot outwards to the end of the hanging chimney. Continue rightwards and out to gain a large jug on the lip. Layback the flakes above to reach a belay.
2 15m 5a. The overhanging pod leads to a crack in the slab right of Magellan’s Wall.
Paul Williams, Trevor Hodgson 24/4/88
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The Tumtum Tree E5 6a 35m
Start as for Motombo climbing from the back of the cave to the sit down rest on the lip of the cave. Stand up and make another move up before reaching left and pulling onto the front face and into the crack of Magellan’s Wall. Follow the crack/fault line in its entirety passing through Dreams and Screams until pulling around the arête on the left of the wall and into the final finishing groove of Centrefold.
Nick Bullock & James McHaffie 8th July 2014
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Sea Cave Zawn Right-Hand

Access the next routes by seal-level traversing from the Fallen Block Zawn descent gully. The routes are described right to left.
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Tomorrow is Reinstated E1 5b 25m
Start below the diagonal crack in the headwall left of Baggers Crack. Climb up to the cracks, move right and pull over the roof. Finish up the wall above.
E Jones, L Lovatt 17/4/84
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Aquaseal E1 5b 25m
The right arete of the black slabby wall right of the sea cave.
M Barnicott, P Williams 27/4/88
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Ciment Fondue E2 5b 25m
The wall between the crack and the arete.
M Barnicott, P Williams 27/4/88
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Triffids VS 4c 25m
The crack in the centre of the black slabby wall right of the sea cave.
L Lovatt D liddy 14/3/84
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Tetrion E1 5a 25m
The wall between the crack and the corner on the left.
M Barnicott, P Williams 27/4/88
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Tomorrow Has Been Cancelled (Due to Lack of Interest) VS 4c 25m
The corner on the left of the black slab right of the sea cave.
L Costello D Durkan 22/7/70
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Wellectic E4 6a 25m
The black streak in the orange wall right of the corner.
T Hodgson, M Barnicott, P Williams 27/4/88
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Into the Deep E2 5b 25m
Takes the wall right of the left arete of Eric.
C Parkin, P Blackburn 1986
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Eric E1 5b 25m
Start left of the corner at an overhung triangular niche. Climb the thin crack leftwards to a groove guarded by an overhang. Climb this (crux) to finish up the right arete.
R Wood, D Liddy 16/3/84. Rediscovered as Cape of Good Hope by C Waddy, 1988.
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Splash or Splat E2 F6a+/b S3 DWS
The rib immediately right of Round of Horn. “It’s fine at first but then you encounter a few fairly dangerous moves before joining the easy top of Round the Horn”. 
Calum Muskett 14/6/11.

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Round the Horn E5 S3 DWS 37m
This route is based around the prominent hanging fin “the horn”. Start right of the cave.
1 22m 6a. 3m left of a square groove is a roof. Climb this and the vague groove to another roof. Step left to “the horn” and circumnavigate this to gain the bottomless chimney which leads to the belay ledge.
2 15m 4c. Finish up the corner.
C Waddy, T Hodgson 25/4/88
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The Band of Westies 35m E5 6a S3 DWS
Essentially a top pitch to Round the Horn; traversing left below and onto an undercut block. Then traverse diagonally out left to finish where Electric Blue finishes.
John Dawes, solo, August 2003. Commemorates an ascent of Electric Blue by 15 people.
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White Lightning E6 F7b+ S0 DWS
A spectacular journey inside the cave. From the start of Round the Horn, traverse left into the cave inside a hanging curtain of rock. Gain the front of the curtain and undercut rightwards then jam into the closed chimney above. Swing wildly through the gap between the 2 massive hanging fins on masssive jugs to a good rest. Continue rightwards on big holds before making a hard move up to undecuts which can be followed out to the lip.
Dan McManus 14/6/11
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Rhoscolyn dws crux 1000 DSC04828
Dan McManus rocking up into the roof on the crux of White Lightning. Photo: Sophie Whyte
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Sea Cave Zawn Left-Hand

The following routes are described right to left from the left hand side of the sea cave.

Electric Blue 35m E4 5c *** Link to video

The finest DWS on Anglesey. Safe apart from the very first couple of moves and the final 10m (due to height above the water) which are steady. Start at the left hand side of the massive cave. Follow the lip rightwards above deep water to the apex. Climb directly to the top.

Stevie Haston, T.Saunders, 1983

Galleon E4 5c 43m
Start as for Electric Blue past the crux. Continue traversing above the lip to an obvious ledge, possible belay. Finish up the loose wide chimney..

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Kissing the Pink E3 5c 34m
Strenuous and fairly serious clmibing up the wall left of the cave.
Dave Towse, W Rees 14 March 84. Rediscovered as Insane, Insane Again by L Clark and R Dean later in 1984.

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Sea and Bisquits HVS 5a 23m.
Start 3m up Solo Slab, step off the slab into obvious bottomless groove. Climb it, crux, then hand traverse steeply right until beneath z-cracks in roof. Climb out over this and up the short wall above.
P.Griffith, P.Bursnall. (10/7/92).
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Solo slab D 30m
The slab in the break left of the sea cave.
D Durkan 29/1/70

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Solo Surprise S 30m
Bulges and groove right of Solo Slab.
D Durkan (solo) 29/1/70
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Harvest Crunch VD
The quartz vein in the LHS of the next bay.
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Flobalob HVS 4c 20m
Takes a line on the overhanging wall 30m left of the sea cave.
R Wood, D Liddy 16/3/84
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January Jaunts D
The corner formed where the headland abuitts the back wall of the zawn.
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After the Picnic VS 4b 18m
Start right of Hi, Jack! Climb the leftwards rising flakes past Fan Fare to finish above Symphony Crack.
R Lewis, N Jones, T Bell 6/6/2008
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Hi, Jack! VS 4b 15m
Start above and right of Fan Fare. Climb diagonally right up the gully wall to take a line of flakes up the wall to finish by two protruding flakes.
M Edwards, C Johns 25/4/88
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Fan Fare HVS 4c
The black streaks and short crack in the gully wall.
R Wood, D Liddy 1984
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Daddy On-Sight E3 5c
Thin cracks and pockets left of the black streaks in the gully wall.
M Edwards 25/4/88
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Fear Test E3 5b
The steep groove.
J Moran, P Williams 5 May 1984
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Big Sunday E5 6a 13m.
The overhanging crack left of Fear Test. Follow large jugs just to the right of the hairline crack (good pro). Gain a no hands knee-lock in the big break – loose undercling avoided. Cut loose and head for the off width finish. Well protected with small wires and ancient warthog. Best climbed in a rough sea.
G.Smith, A.Wood (on-sight) (1988).
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Symphony Crack Diff
This has to be one of the best routes of its grade – traverse in right wards from the end of the point. belay at the foot of the open corner and climb this to the top, an atmospheric route.
D Durkan, J Baker 29/01/70
Variation: Serpent HVS 5b. Start up Symphony Crack then climb the right arete.
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Loon For the Broon E2 5b 22m.
The route starts from the hanging belay on Symphony Crack. From the belay, take a direct line up the right wall, heading for the right shoulder of the crag top. The sensible climber will take advantage of the numerous pockets for runner placements on this clean brittle wall.
Mark Hedge, Sammy Burns. (12/6/98).
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Toccata Crack VD 15m
Follow the curving crack rightwards to the finish of Symphony Crack.
D Durkan 1970.
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Black Zawn
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Traverse rightwards (facing out) from the end of the Symphony Crack headland.
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Crack and Corner VD 15m
The first groove found on the traverse from the end of the headland.
L Costello (solo) June 1970.
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Patella S
A left hand finish to Crack and Corner, finishing up the arete.

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Starfish Cove
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This is the next steep wall/cave right (looking out to sea). Tidal.
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It is unclear how the following 2 routes relate to Paul Barbier’s Route but it appears likely that one of them takes the same line
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From Dusk Till Dawn E3 6a 17m

The striking arête on the opposite side of the promontory from Symphony Crack. Climb the right hand side of the arête, fingery at first, till big holds lead onto the arête. Tidal.
Mike Twid Turner, Ian Wilson, 1996

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It’s Life Twid, But Not as You Know it E3 5c 13m
The small arête of Starfish Cove. Climb the crack in the seaward side and pull through the crackers onto the arête. Finish direct. A route of great character.
Mike Twid Turner, Ian Wilson, 1996.
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Paul Barbier’s Route E3 10m
The short steep arete at the entrance to the zawn.
Paul Barbier, Ian McNeill, Dominic Travers 1990/1 (done same day as Billy the Mountain).
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Dad’s Dinghy E3 5c 10m
From the base of the arete, climb up and rightwards to a niche and finish up the headwall.
S Jones, J Ratcliffe 22/6/98.
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Starfish Enterprise E6 6b 22m
Takes the wildly overhanging wall/cave. Start on a flat boulder at the bottom left hand side of the cave. Climb up breaks to a niche at 7 metres. Traverse 15 metres along the bottom break and then the top break to pull through the roof at its apex. Steep.
Mike Twid Turner, Louise Thomas, 1996.

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Billy the Mountain E1 5b 9m
Just below the step and to the right of the point is a steep wall which leads to an overhanging wall. Billy takes the obvious crack centre of the wall.
Ian McNeill, Paul Barbier, Dominic Travers 1990/1

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Painted Black E5 6b 27m.
Start just above the pool, at low tide, and climb the right-hand side of the black recess to gain the obvious juggy flake. Get a good rest below the white headwall, then pull onto edges and make a powerful move to gain a flat hold, just below a juggy break. Quite bold and physical.
S.Jones, Pat King, Zaf Ali, John Boy. (12/7/97).
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Dark Reflections E7 6b 23m.
Take the centre of the overhanging face, starting below a shallow little groove. Two scary moves away from gear/snappy rock. Finish up the snaking crack in the headwall. Brilliant climbing and steady climbing for the grade.
S.Jones, Pat King, Zaf Ali, John Boy. (12/7/97).
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Slit Yer Wrists E4 6a 20m.
Takes the groove at the back of the zawn to the break, on the overhanging side. Climb the steep wide crack on the upper part to finish.
S.Jones, P.Brook. (29/6/97).
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In the next zawn;
Blackbits HS 20m
Steep black corners followed by the corner of the slab.
D. Liddy solo March 1984.

Twilight Passage VS 20m
Climb the chimney 5m left of Blackbits. Finish up slab and crack.
R Wood
 solo March 1984.

The Lookout Crags

The Cheese WedgeOn the right hand side of Sunset Slab is a hanging buttress with an obvious gangway up the left-hand side, with a crack on its right side.

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Deganwy HVS 4c 20m.
From sea level, follow the gangway, past a steepening, to the top. Exciting rock, quartz in mudstone.
A.Newton, M.Crook. (30/7/95).
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A Very Steep Young Man E5 6b 10m.
The crack system in the overhanging wall right of Deganwy. Start from sloping ledges on the arête. Belay from a rock pool at low tide. From big spikes, go left to gain a wide crack with a difficult swing up and left into continuation cracks and finish bulkily. Magnificent climbing, with the main difficulties confined to the first 10 metres! Take numerous cams.
G.Smith, C.Waddy. (1996).

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Pleasant route Severe 17m
Up right side of buttress via white quartz vein, pulling over a bulge at half height.

Nick Walton, solo, (1995).
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Paradise Factory Severe 20m
The right hand corner of the zawn to finish via the quartzy slab on the left.
A. Newton, M Wilson, R Hall July 1997.

The Red Wedge

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The next routes lie some 100 metres left (looking out to sea) of the coastguard lookout; left (looking in) of Sunset Slab. The area can’t be seen from above and consists of a wedge of very good quality Yellow Wall rock.
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Bulkmaster E2 5c 25m.
Start half way up the slabs on the right side of the V. Gain the slab and move left to below the hanging corner above. Climb this with some effort and finish slightly up and left.
M.Crook, A.Newton. (30/7/95).
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25 Years of Cellulite E2 5b 30m.
Start as for Bulkmaster and follow the slab leftwards until moves up a short groove lead to a pedestal. Carry on leftwards and downwards with difficulty, passing a peg, to reach the slab. Scramble up to the top and round to above the last section to protect the second.
M.Crook, A.Newton. (1/8/95).
Behind Closed Doors E2 5c 25m.
Start just right of Saltheart. Follow the line of holds outwards to the lip, easier than it looks. Traverse rightwards under the roof until below the prominent corner. Pull over to climb the corner and move left at its conclusion. Well worth doing.

Frazer Bull, Owen Hayward, Dave Barker. (23/5/90). Rediscovered as Rechtsclinger by M.Crook, R.Wood, Feb 96.

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Saltheart E5 6b 20m.
From 5m up the left wall (looking in) of the zawn, climb out and up to an overhanging hand crack. Climb steeply out to the 2nd of two jugs (gear) and make a hard move up and out to gain jams in the base of the crack. Struggle up this to a no-hands rest on a ledge. From the left end of the ledge, climb up the wall to a roof then hand traverse the horizontal break rightwards to easy ground. Pumpy, but good pro.
Owen Hayward, Dave Barker (on-sight). (23/5/90). Rediscovered as Daz Undercling by George Smith, 1996.

Betty Swollocks E2 5b 20m.
Climb the wall left of Saltheart.
Owen Hayward, Jayne Anthoine May 1990
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They’re Red Hot E4 5c 20m.
Pokey. From the niche on the left, traverse right past a peg to an obvious undercut. Gibber straight up the wall to an uncomfortable rest in the corner below the roof. Finish up Saltheart. Take big cams.
Joe Le Sage, Andy Braund (on-sight). (1995). Second ascent by Nick and Twid.
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Election Zawn

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The first deep cleft, north of the coastguard lookout.
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Drink Your Hemlock Mr Portillo E3
1 50m. 4c. From the seaward end of the zawn, traverse the north wall rightwards between the high tide mark and 5 metres over breaks and under a waterfall as the line dictates. Belay on a large ledge below the big corner.
2 25m. 5b. Go up and rightwards to the wall and follow folded rock straight up. Move leftwards when the rock runs out onto vegetated rock and a grass cornice. Finish in the cutting area and belay in rabbit burrows. (Belay stake now in place – Reduce E grade by leaving a rope down grass from this).
Howard Jones, Gill Lovick. (2/5/97).
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From Arrogance to Impotence E2/3
Traverse from the east end of the zawn on the north wall.
1 22m. 5c. Start just left of a shallow corner. Slippery at first – follow a rising traverse leftwards without much protection, but all easy enough, to a rounded ledge. Awkward moves beyond this gain more broken rock and easier climbing to a notch on the arête and a belay.
2 25m. 5b/c. Move round the arête onto a worrying ledge and follow this into the corner. Step onto the left wall traverse easily – good protection stuffed rigorously into Drink Your Hemlock Mr Portillo. Step down and continue the traverse over a small stream (or larger waterfall, depending on conditions) to reach vegetated ledges alongside the top of wide folded cracks, large cam. Finish joyfully up steep grass by two embedded boulders – stake belay.
Howard Jones, Gill Lovick. (3/6/97).
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Curly Locks and the Three Hairs VS 4b.
Thin crack and corner on the left wall of the small zawn opposite The Sun.
Nigel Manning, Richard Wright. 11/8/90.

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales