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Dangleberries E4 6b 10m
The next 4 routes are dependent on In-situ ironmongery plus rack for protection and unless there have been recent ascents, the condition of the pegs will need to be checked prior to climbing. Conditions can be fickle and you want a mid to low tide.
The Treacherous Underfoot E7 6b (7b+) 20m
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Jordan Buys on the first ground-up ascent of Chicama. Photo by Naomi Buys via UKClimbing.
Further ascents by Caff and Caroline Ciavaldini, 2013 http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68289
Ground up ascent by Jordan Buys August 2015 http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69881
Hazel Findlay on the second ascent of Chicama. Photo by Matt Pycroft.
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The Gravity Wave E8 6c (7c+) 20m
A counter diagonal to Chicama.
Start on the far left of the zawn below The Crow Road. The line sweeps across the crag with a shake-out in Chicama. The crux of the route is in the first half and the upper part is bold with poor-ish cams needing careful placement.
James McHaffie and Alex Mason, 14/2/16. Second ascent Alex Mason, 23/2/16. 3rd ascent flashed by Emma Twyford, March 2016. 4th ascent Pete Robins, March 2016.
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James McHaffie on the first ascent of The Gravity Wave. Photo Ray Wood courtesy of DMM.
http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2016/02/new-anglesey-e8-for-mchaffie/
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The Crow Road E6 6b (7b) 15m
Grant Farquhar on the first ascent of The Crow Road.
Paul Barbier and Matt Anthoine, Summer, 1992.
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Headland XS 6a 15m
Alex Outlaws Electric Rod XS 5a 15m
The next three routes lie further north, in a deep gully at the end of the boundary wall, on a slab facing seawards. Descend either by abseil or down climb Diff face.
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Counter Diagonal Severe 10m
The obvious counter diagnoal line to Campian Crack.
L Griffin and T Hall 10 Feb 2008.
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Further north again can be found the next route.
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Skirt around to the right (looking out) of the Ravenspoint housing estate, heading south. The route climbs the attractive diagonal crackline to your right on a southward facing, overhanging promontory. Belay on a set of shelves from where the crack emanates.
Alex Mason & Callum Muskett, 24 Nov 2012.
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Porth-Y-Garan
A small lower grade crag between 15 and 20 metres in height, situated south of Trearddur Bay and about 1.5 miles north of the main cliffs of Rhoscolyn.
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Training for the Depot
Jugfest 3000
Rostam’s Awkward Bulge
Sunset Crack
Forgettable
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Golden Gate Diff
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
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Scimitar Diff
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
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Scimitar Direct HVS
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Va-Va-Vroom VS 4c
From the Ledge climb to the left of the hole, making a bold move over the bulge.
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
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Blast Hole VS 4c
Climb straight up the wall to the right of the hole.
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
Snappy HVS 4c
1m Right of Blast Hole. Climb the wall direct to the overlap, continue on the same line above.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)
Central Wall S 4a
Climb the centre of the wall finiahing at a small layback flake.
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
Didgeridoo S 4a
Climb up the wall past two diagonal pockets to a small overlap.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)
Double Pocket S 4a
Climb past the double pockets at 1/3 height, then to the overlap and finsih up a thin crack.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)
Rising Tide S 4a
Follow the obvious rising crack line.
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
Double Thread VD
Start as for Rising Tide, but take the parrellel cracks above on jugs to the top.
K.M.Bromfield, P.A.James (20/07/08)
Garanteed VD
The left hand crack
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
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Pickpocket VD
Follow the right hand pocketed crack.
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
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Kleptomaniac VS
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Descent Mod/Diff
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
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Dipper
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Puncture VS 4c
The Overhanging crack, making a committing move to gain the easy upper section.
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
Eliminate this Cameron HVS
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Spring Tide HVS 5a
2m Right of Puncture. Climb the overhanging crack on good holds with a big reach to the top.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)
Thug’s Corner VS
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Hearbreaker Slab VS