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Trearddur Bay | North Wales Climbs

Trearddur Bay

The Face of Adversity
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One of the steepest bits of quartzite on Anglesey. Reached by taking the minor Ravenspoint road southwards from Trearddur Bay to the southern most headland of the bay. Enter a housing estate and follow a sign to “Headland”.
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Dangleberries E4 6b 10m

Situated on an overhanging wall around and to the right of The Treacherous Underfoot (looking in). Very short and very steep crack which used to sport (and is graded for) 2 pegs, often wet but good value.
Paul Barbier and James Harrison, Summer 1992.
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The next 4 routes are dependent on In-situ ironmongery plus rack for protection and unless there have been recent ascents, the condition of the pegs will need to be checked prior to climbing. Conditions can be fickle and you want a mid to low tide.
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The Treacherous Underfoot E7 6b (7b+) 20m
Pre-cambrian yarding up the left to right diagonal overhanging crack in the centre of the face.
George Smith, 1992. Second ascent by Mike Twid Turner, 1990s.
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Jordan Buys on his ground-up ascent of Chicama, 212 kb
Jordan Buys on the first ground-up ascent of Chicama. Photo by Naomi Buys via UKClimbing.
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Chicama E9 6c (8a+) 20m
Tackles the centre of the face. Quest in from the slab on the right before having it up the groove and wall. RA!
Tim Emmett, 2003. Named after a surf break reputed to be the longest left in the world.
Second ascent by Hazel Findlay, 2013 http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67949
Further ascents by Caff and Caroline Ciavaldini, 2013 http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68289
Ground up ascent by Jordan Buys August 2015 http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69881
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Trearddur Bay - Gogarth
Hazel Findlay on the second ascent of Chicama. Photo by Matt Pycroft.
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The Gravity Wave E8 6c (7c+) 20m
A counter diagonal to Chicama.
Start on the far left of the zawn below The Crow Road. The line sweeps across the crag with a shake-out in Chicama. The crux of the route is in the first half and the upper part is bold with poor-ish cams needing careful placement.
James McHaffie and Alex Mason, 14/2/16. Second ascent Alex Mason, 23/2/16. 3rd ascent flashed by Emma Twyford, March 2016. 4th ascent Pete Robins, March 2016.
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Trearddur Bay - Gogarth
James McHaffie on the first ascent of The Gravity Wave. Photo Ray Wood courtesy of DMM.
http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2016/02/new-anglesey-e8-for-mchaffie/
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The Crow Road E6 6b (7b) 15m
The crack line on the left side of the face. Approach as for The Treacherous Underfoot, over the boulder at low tide or down the slab on the left at high tide. Scramble up to the belay ledge. Climb the crack past 7 peg runners and assorted cam placements. Pegs 2, 3, and 7 were the best at the time of the first ascent. Large nuts required at the top (sorry girls!).
Grant Farquhar, Clare Carolan (30/7/93). 2nd ascent by Mike Twid Turner, 1990s. 3rd ascent by Owen Hayward, 1990s.
The pegs are stainless steel, merits discussed here.
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Trearddur Bay - Gogarth
Grant Farquhar on the first ascent of The Crow Road.

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Dr Livingstone I Exhume E3 5b 17m
Climbs the wall on the left hand side of the face. Approach as for The Treacherous Underfoot, over the boulder at low tide or down the slab on the left at high tide. The route starts from the first ledge above high water. Go straight up the wall, with trepidation, to a half way ledge, gear. Bail up the wall above, trending slightly leftwards past a mega thread to finish. Excellent.

Paul Barbier and Matt Anthoine, Summer, 1992.
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Headland
 XS 6a 15m

The obvious prow jutting out of the sea, adjacent to the Adversity main face. Scramble down to sea level. Attack from the left by large sloping jugs. Committing moves leads to ace jug things. Bolder at low tide.
George Smith, 1993.
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Alex Outlaws Electric Rod XS 5a 15m
Start as for Headland, then take the un-obvious prow to the left.
Merlin Tomkins, 1993.
Sir Ranolph Sex Fiennes XS 5c 23m
On the crag back and left (looking in) of The Treacherous Underfoot. It takes a direct line up the longest part of the crag and traverses slightly right on stegosaurus like protrusions at the top. Fun and friable.
Alistair Hopkins, James Harrison and Paul Barbier, Summer 1992.
Captain Gets his Oats E3 5c 17m
Right of Sir Ranolph Sex Fiennes is a crack going left to an arête. Traverse along the crack to the arête thing and climb direct up this with much interest to a step slightly left onto a sloping ledge.
Alistair Hopkins, James Harrison and Paul Barbier, Summer 1992.
Reinhold Made a Messner HVS 5a 13m
Takes a crack over to the right of Captain Gets his Oats. Steep and fun.
James Harrison and Paul Barbier, Summer 1992.
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The next three routes lie further north, in a deep gully at the end of the boundary wall, on a slab facing seawards. Descend either by abseil or down climb Diff face.
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Boundary Corner V.Diff 17m
Flaky crack in right hand corner. Follow thin crack to the top.
N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
Dogleg Crack V.Diff 17m
The right hand of 2 cracks up the centre of the wall.
N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
Catleg Crack V.Diff 17m
The left hand crack.
N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
Campian Crack Severe 14m
In the small bay to the right of a sewage pipe, the wall on your right as you are facing seawards, which has a crack turning diagonally leftwards, split at half height. Climb this.
N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
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Counter Diagonal Severe 10m
The obvious counter diagnoal line to Campian Crack.
L Griffin and T Hall 10 Feb 2008.
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Further north again can be found the next route.
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Timebean E1 5b 15m
Skirt around to the right (looking out) of the Ravenspoint housing estate, heading south. The route climbs the attractive diagonal crackline to your right on a southward facing, overhanging promontory. Belay on a set of shelves from where the crack emanates.
Alex Mason & Callum Muskett, 24 Nov 2012.

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Porth-Y-Garan

A small lower grade crag between 15 and 20 metres in height, situated south of Trearddur Bay and about 1.5 miles north of the main cliffs of Rhoscolyn.
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Trearddur Bay - Gogarth
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Training for the Depot
Jugfest 3000
Rostam’s Awkward Bulge
Sunset Crack
Forgettable
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Golden Gate Diff
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
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Scimitar Diff
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
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Scimitar Direct HVS
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Va-Va-Vroom VS 4c
From the Ledge climb to the left of the hole, making a bold move over the bulge.
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
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Blast Hole VS 4c
Climb straight up the wall to the right of the hole.
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.

Snappy HVS 4c
1m Right of Blast Hole. Climb the wall direct to the overlap, continue on the same line above.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Central Wall S 4a
Climb the centre of the wall finiahing at a small layback flake.
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.

Didgeridoo S 4a
Climb up the wall past two diagonal pockets to a small overlap.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Double Pocket S 4a
Climb past the double pockets at 1/3 height, then to the overlap and finsih up a thin crack.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Rising Tide S 4a
Follow the obvious rising crack line.
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.

Double Thread VD
Start as for Rising Tide, but take the parrellel cracks above on jugs to the top.
K.M.Bromfield, P.A.James (20/07/08)

Garanteed VD
The left hand crack
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
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Pickpocket VD
Follow the right hand pocketed crack.
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
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Kleptomaniac VS
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Descent Mod/Diff
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
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Dipper
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Puncture VS 4c
The Overhanging crack, making a committing move to gain the easy upper section.
Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.

Eliminate this Cameron HVS
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Spring Tide HVS 5a
2m Right of Puncture. Climb the overhanging crack on good holds with a big reach to the top.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

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Thug’s Corner VS
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Hearbreaker Slab VS

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales