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South Stack Island | North Wales Climbs

South Stack Island

This venue has actually had climbing banned by the owners Trinity House, ever since the new bridge was built and the public were charged to cross the bridge. BMC to the rescue ??? -sort it out whoever reads this and can help.
This venue is subject to a seasonal restriction (see below) due to nesting birds from the 1st February to the 31st July. Breaking nthis ban will seriously affect access to the entire area. For more details visit THE BMC REGIONAL ACCESS DATABASE. After crossing the bridge, follow steps down into the first zawn on the right – obvious concrete diving board at the top of the zawn.

As I understand it the bird ban only affects the southern half of the island, with the northern half (containing most of the routes) not being banned. This is now rather academic since climbing is totally banned by the owners.
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The first route lies on the mainland underneath the bridge.

Even Bigger Guns 
E3/4 5c 23m (R)
Abseil off South Stack bridge on the mainland side. Pull over a roof and trend up leftwards along a ramp to a short chimney and plants. Good protection.
George Smith and Noel Craine, 1994.
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South Stack Island - Gogarth
South Stack Island
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The next route lies on the South Face, and is reached by abseiling from eyebolts near the lighthouse.
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Steerpike 46m Hard Very Severe (R)
Steep and exciting. Start below the obvious groove, in the middle of the face.
1 23m. 5a. Climb the groove to the overlap, and traverse three metres right, then move up and go back left into the groove. Climb the wall on the right to a stance.
2 23m. 5a. Go back left, and then ascend a steep groove on worsening rock.
D Carr, D Lanceley, 30/4/73.
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Immediately after the bridge on the north side are 3 zawns
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Diving Board Zawn
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After crossing the bridge, follow steps down into the first zawn on the right. There is an obvious concrete diving board at the top of the zawn.

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Crispin’s Route HVS 23m (R)
The right arête of the zawn and wall above the arch to finish at the diving board.
Crispin Waddy (solo).
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*Attila the Pun E5 6a 23m (R)
A good route climbing the left wall of the zawn before trending rightwards over the arch to finish left of the diving board. Start at the steep hand crack leading off the slab above the steps. Follow the crack and then the groove on the right to a rest on a slabby ramp/groove. Cross the wall rightwards on fine South Stack rock, passing interesting quartz features to gain a sandy groove. Follow this to the top.
Adam Wainwright and John Wainwright (on-sight), 5/7/96.
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Muppet Zawn
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This zawn is the second zawn after the bridge. The next 2 routes may share some common ground, once the crazy through island approach to Arnold Seafood has been accounted for.
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Gonzo With the Wind 25m E4 6a (R)
The left wall of the zawn. Climb the obvious central corner over a bulge then over a roof. The top wall is interesting.
Mike Twid Turner,and Andy Farnell (onsight), 1 Aug 1991.
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Arnold Seafood E2, 5c, 5c (R)
Start on the south side of the island. Go over the bridge, and rightwards into a zawn. Go through the tunnel (5c), and into the squeeze chimney, to exit on the other side (north) of the island on a slab. The route takes a thin crack, past two overlaps. It is also possible to approach the route by abseil from the top.
Johnny Dawes and Stevie Haston (on-sight), 28 July 1987.
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The Pipes, The Pipes XS 28m (R)
A serious and unrecommendable item. Take the same approach as Arnold Seafood. Upon emerging from the tunnel, a pipe can be seen exiting from a concrete groove. Climb the wall, three metres to its right, and go diagonally up to a bracket, and finish on appalling rock.
Martin E Crook, Diver Dave Kendall and Noell Craine, 1/8/87.
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Old Light Zawn
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This is the third and most northerly zawn. Hop over the wall, just on from the green gate. Tinky Winky takes the crack in the slab. The first route is reached by traversing left (looking in) around the arête from Tinky Winky.
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The Old Light 23m MXS (R)
Belay on a pedestal below the curving crack/chimney. Make steep moves up to a large spike and climb the crack/chimney via a variety of cautious moves to a belay on the left.
Dave Ferguson, Ian Wilson. (21/9/97).

Tinky Winky 23m Severe (R)
Start by scrambling down slopes to belay in a corner right of the slab at low tide. Traverse left on a quartzy band and climb the crack in the slab to a spike belay.
Dave Ferguson, Ian Wilson. (21/9/97).

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales