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Serengeti Area | North Wales Climbs

Serengeti Area

The Serengeti area is another of the main areas in the quarry, with the Seamstress Butte, being one of the more iconic and unique features like a whale breaching out of the rocky plain.

SEAMSTRESS SLAB
 
Yorkshire VD HS 4a 15m.
To the left of the main slab, left of the arete with a bolt on, scramble up to below a single shot hole, then use this to climb up directly. Stay away from the arete/corner as the rock is loose in places, but is solid on the route. A reverse nut/tricam may protect lower moves in the shothole, and microwires above might help. Not suitable for HS leaders, a steady head is required so VS?!
FA H Goodall 01/05/2010
 
Karabiner Cruise. Little more than a boulder problem. 6c 2 Bolts Replaced. 4/6/07

Diagonal Dilemma F7a / 7a+(?).
 Previously unrecorded route follows the rising crackline from Karabiner Cruise clipping bolts on Karabiner Cruise, No Problem + Y Gwaedlyd to lower off (previously E5 6c)
FA I Lloyd-Jones 7/91No Problem E4 6b 2 Bolts Replaced. 4/6/07

Y Gwaedlyd F6c 2 Bolts Replaced + 2 added + Lower off 4/6/07

Silent Homecoming E2 6a bolts replaced 24/7/08

Balance of power E4. New Bolts 1/07

Out of Africa E4. New Bolt. 1/07

Slug Club Special E4. New Bolts. 1/07

Seamstress VS ***

Seam Stress E6 6a * 20m A bold eliminate line which climbs the shallow slabby groove on crimps and a variety of small shallow boreholes between the cracks of Seamstress and Seams the Same (which are obviously out of bounds).FA climbed with gear placed on the lead (no side runners on adjacent routes!) Skyhooks and a small tricam protect. Great bold and balencey slab climbing, never desperately technical but more commiting than appearances suggest! FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 20/09/10

Seams The Same E1 ***

Windows of perception. new bolt + peg replaced 7/08

The Medium F8a. New Bolts. 1/07
Heading the Shot E5/F7a. The bolts and the peg have now been replaced with shiny new stainless steel. New Lower off. 1/07

Watch me Wallaby Wank Frank
 E3 6a. After the peg was removed by a falling climber several years back this has been replaced with a new bolt to protect the last move.Squashing the acropods E1 5a. New bolt

Peter Pan E2 5c/ F6a+. This route was described back in 1992 as being bolted, the studs were there, but now the bolts have been replaced. A harder more perplexing direct can lead straight to the lower off (E2 6a?)
Nick the Chisel F7b. Re-equipped as sports route and the line straightened out to a lower off. 2/07 (Font 6c+/7a boulder problem past the first bolt…brilliant moves and 2 ways of doing it depending on height. Jon R)
Alt Start to Nick the Chisel F6a+. Starts just to the right of Nick the Chisel, then follow that line to lower off. 2/07. F.A: Pete Robins (maybe Fr6b? J.R)
 

YELLOW WALL

 

Short Staircase to the Stars E3. New bolt placed slightly lower than before. 10/06

Slippery People E2. New Bolts 1994 (resin eco), New Lower off. 10/06

Tentative descisions E5 new bolt 7/08

The Great Curve E2. New bolts one bolt was added lower down but the route is still bold and shared lower off with Remain in Light. 10/06
Remain in Light E4. New bolts and Lower off. 10/06
Long Distance Runner E3. New bolt to replace the high peg and lower off. 10/06

OPPOSITE SEAMSTRESS AREA  

‘Quelle Suprise’ F4c 18m.
This delightful little route lies to the right of Seamstress Slab across the ditch/dyke.A broken wall with just this one clean slabby ramp-a suprising find!
The climb starts at a smooth slab with a distinct finger crack running right to left.Climb up this slab stepping left (crux) to reach better holds thence straight up the clean slabby ramp via 4 bolts to a double chain lower off.
FA.Colin and Sue Goodey 16th August 2010.
 
Laund arete. E4 6b 
new bolts and lower off 07/08One for all 17m F4b/4c. New climb on right hand edge of crag opposite Seamstress slab
Start on an airy ledge overlooking Never never land slab(bolt belay for security) and below the prominent green slabby pillar.4 bolts lead up suberb ‘greenstone’ to a double ring lower off.
FA :Colin and Sue Goodey. 4/408.

All for One. 17m F4c/5a.
New route to right of ‘One for all’ on the big green tower. Start 5m right of this route climbing the clean green slabs past 2 bolts with tricky move past second bolt(crux).Easier ground now leads out to the right on good holds to gain the delightful crest of the obviouse arete-this leads up on huge holds in fine position past a further 2 bolts and a peg to a lower off.
FA: Morgan Goodsmith,Colin Goodey,Del Goodey 5/5/08

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales