The Range

The new stakes are high quality, industrial grade galvanised steel; some were provided by the BMC and some were provided by the North Wales Bolt Fund. Donations to the fund are always welcome; if you wish to contribute click here.

. The Range is described North to South

Treasure Island .
A new section of cliff has been developed at the northern end of The Range (Gogarth) by Martin Crook, George Smith, John Redhead (JR) and Dave Aucott. “It’s got typical Mousetrap type rock on the left, but more compact ‘Easter Island’ scenes on the right. Consequently we thought the old XS grade more appropriate to the style and nature of some of the routes.” Explained Martin

Approach details: park in the small layby opposite the South Stack T junction. A few meteres up the road towards South Stack go down a marked path, through a kissing gate and follow some concrete and wooden steps down to a boulder beach. Head left (looking out to sea) at low tide to reach platforms below the crag.

George tucked into The Whistling Chimney E3/4 5c Photo: Martin Crook
When Ledges Die E2 5b (MXS)
Takes a line up left of the large scooped chimney at the right side of the cliff. Gain and follow the slim black groove, which has a quartz ribbon in its back. A worrying exit is then made onto the arête which leads past massive cantilevers to the top.
Martin Crook and Andy Newton Jan 2014

Bottom Feeders (aka: The Golden Fan) MXS 5b. This tackles the central groove chimney and gives a fine outing, mostly on sound rock, although some care is required with the exit.
Martin Crook and John Redhead Oct 2013

The Crooked Mile XS 5a/b (probably E2 5b?)
This route starts left of Bottom Feeders where an obvious arête, with a slab on its left, runs into steeper rock. After the initial section swing left to gain a steep crack and then go up this before moving left again into a chimney. A belay here will solve the mounting rope drag issues. A short 5a/b exit pitch up the chimney will take the careful to the top.
Martin Crook, George Smith & Dave Aucott

The Whistling Chimney E3/4 5c
Climbs the deepest looking chimney line 5m left of The Crooked Mile. “It’s a more or less perfect pitch. Solider than its neighbours to the right. Climb directly to the base of the chimney which is only entered after curiously difficult climbing on huge holds.”
George Smith Oct 2013


The south facing walls 30m north of Atlantic Ridge on The Range at Gogarth (Grid ref: SH 21143 79656). The routes are reached by an abseil to the centre of wall at sea level.

Drip Trip E3 5b
Climb easily through the notch to the rightward leaning break line – follow this, tip-toeing across the lip of the cave to a loose top out up a short wall.
George Smith and Rick Potter, June 2014.
The Blue Buoy E3/4 5c
Offers a good, well protected battle, through the steep rock below Drip Trip. The line follows the obvious overhanging flake over a ‘furious bulge’ to finish up a defined groove. It is only recommended in dry conditions and with a low tide when the route may be accessed from the slabs opposite.
George Smith and Tony Loxton, 2014


Access; continue southwards from the South Stack T junction (i.e. where you would normally turn right to head up to the RSPB cafe); after 200m park and cross fields in a westward direction to reach the coast. Keep an eye out for Church Rock – a striking pinnacle of heavily featured rock. Approach is via abseil if the tide is high or via a walk in at low tide. Ledges at the base are accessible at all but highest tide.

Never Jam Today E6 5c/6a
The route climbs a rightward facing corner crossed by a stepped overhanging flake. Plenty of large cams can be placed (the first ones being very sound) but some are placed blind and some are in very powdery cracks. Occasionally a cam placement or large nut placement appears in the back of the groove over to the right. After the hardest section an amazing ‘Ron on Big Sleep’ rest on the arête allows time to contemplate the easier wide flake at the top, which leads to an easy slab.
George Smith Sep 2012


George halfway up the first pitch of New Believers E1/2 5a/b. Photo: Tony Loxton

New Believers E1/2 5a/b
A two pitch route which tackles the big quartzy line left of Never Jam Today (which can be found close to Church Rock).Start by barrelling up the cracks with a couple of hard moves leading to a ledge below the roof and belay. The upper pitch turns the roof on the right hand side via an encouraging crack to gain the slabs. Finish via the grassy groove or, more directly, the slabby arête.
George Smith and Tony Loxton June 2013–-new-line-and-new-stakes-on-the-range-gogarth/

George lodged in the top chimney section of The Complete Works E5 5c Photo: Tony Loxton


The Complete Works E5 5c

Is found on The Rickety Cliff, a west facing wall located north of the Lifeboat station car park and can be accessed by descending a steep path or, more advisedly, by abseil. This profoundly loose climb, which takes the central feature of the wall, is an exercise in weight distribution. Protection is, more or less, afforded by multiple cams and slings. Start at the centre of the wall and ascend the groove which leads to an ivy finish. Blackthorn belays can be backed up by a boulder in the field beyond.
George Smith, Martin Crook, October 2013
George offers the following trivia for would be suitors:“The Complete Works refers to a small ellipse of solid red rock taking the form of a stack of leather-bound books near the start of the climb. It is so loose that I grabbed spikes and removed their tops until they got a bit more solid and then placed slings on whatever was left and carried on. A great day out!”


George halfway up The Complete Works E5 5c, with Smurf Zawn see in the background across on the other side of the bay. Photo: Tony Loxton


Foam Party XS (E3 5b)
Tackles the huge chimney line some 15m left (east) of The Complete Works. This gave a really good pitch with some surprisingly un-strenuous climbing through peculiar terrain. Start below thechimney and move up and rightwards into a niche to its right, before moving up and left to a niche in the chimney at about 10m. Make a difficult move into the continuation chimney and then climb mostly using fins and slabby ledges on its right side, with spaced protection and a loose finish.
George Smith and Martin Crook Jan 2014

South Stack View Zawn

South Stack View Zawn is situated on the north coast of the Range, facing South Stack and just west of a lifebuoy and fishing spot. From the car park, take the path west and almost immediately branch right, continuing down to the coast. Turn left for 50m and descend grass to the top of the zawn. There are a range of easier routes here climbed by Lou Costello and Lindsay Griffin a few years ago.

One Step Beyond E1 5a
An exciting line with a bold feel and some disposable holds. To reach it abseil down the seaward facing ramp to easy ledges and traverse left (facing out) along easy ledges to a stance directly above the big block in the zawn.“From the belay, climb up rightwards following an obvious slanting ramp-line until just before the quartzy overhang. Avoid this by moving rightwards and taking ONE STEP BEYOND (At this point a sane leader will be thinking this is Madness) to a very exposed sensational finish up the headwall to the right.”
Graham Sutton and Mark Hellewell 2014

Jugs in Space HVS 5a
A companion route to One Step Beyond with an undercut exposed traverse giving a serious feel. Ascend the ramp of One Step Beyond and continue until the overhang is reached. Now traverse leftwards in a sensational position along a line of overhanging jugs leading up to a ramp and easy ground.
Mark Hellewell and Graham Sutton, April 2014

The next two routes lie in a narrow zawn with an excuse for a stream running into it. At the narrow head of the zawn is an overhanging banana shaped spire, bounded on the north by a dog leg crack. The crack is:


American Excess XS 5c 23m A route of three halves; at first wet, then steep, then loose.
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).

The Banana Spire E4/5 5c 30m.
Start on the arête and move up to where it steepens. Climb the front of the face directly to a notched bulge at the very top. Pull through here. Will become a pleasant, pumpy E4, but a bit snappy at present.
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).

Porth y Gwîn D-Day Buttress is at the seaward end of the Porth y Gwîn Promontory, a narrow headland situated immediately south of the fourth and most southerly of the Porth y Gwîn Stacks. Grid Reference 2115 7991. The routes here are tidal. .

Mark Hellewell on the first ascent of Utah VS 4c Photo: Graham Sutton

There is a good fisherman’s path along the top of the promontory which leads on down the north side of the promontory to sea level boulders and at low tide it is possible to traverse easily around to the seaward end of the promontory. Alternatively a short abseil can be made down Hobart’s Funnies from a convenient block at the top. The routes are described from left to right.


Graham Sutton on the first ascent of Omaha HVS 5a Photo: Mark Hellewell


Juno VS 4c 10m 
At the far left end of the buttress is an attractive little hidden corner capped by an overhang. Delicately follow the corner to the overhang where surprise jugs allow an improbable fun exit leftwards. [Graham Sutton/Mark Hellewell 06.06.2014]
Hobart’s Funnies HVS 5a 10m 
Around the corner to the right is an attractive, wavy patterned yellow wall which gently overhangs from bottom to top. Climb this directly on cracks and pockets. [Graham Sutton/Mark Hellewell 14.06.2014]
Sword S 4a 10m
Two metres to the right is an obvious corner bound on its right by a smooth slabby wall. Climb the corner direct with good protection. Pleasant. [Graham Sutton/Mark Hellewell 04.06.2014]


Mark Hellewell on the first ascent of Gold HS 4b Photo: Graham Sutton

Gold HS 4b 22m
An obvious left to right rising traverse across the seaward face of the buttress, following a line of sloping gangways to reach the arête on the far right. Follow this and finish via a grassy v groove. A superb route. [Mark Hellewell/Graham Sutton 04.06.2014]
Omaha HVS 5a 18m
The prominent wavy corner line on the left side of the seaward face. A steep start leads via flakes to a stepped groove above. Finish rightwards on good holds. [Graham Sutton/Mark Hellewell 06.06.2014]
Atlantic Wall E1 5b 18m
A good route climbing the overhanging headwall above Gold. Starting a metre or so left of Overlord, climb a steep groove line on flaky holds to reach the gangway of Gold. Follow it rightwards for a few moves until you can pull steeply up on good holds onto the overhanging headwall above. Good holds and jams lead to a small ledge at the top of the wall with thank god finishing holds arriving just in time. [Graham Sutton/Mark Hellewell 15.06.2014]

Topo: Mark Hellewell

Overlord HVS 5a 21m
On the right hand side of the buttress, just left of the arête is a steep hanging slab capped by an impressive diagonal line of flakes forming a roof. Starting from a small pedestal at low water, climb steeply up a line of good flakes until under the roof at the left side of the slab. Good protection and excellent jams can be found under the roof as you traverse upwards and rightwards across the slab on airy footholds in a sensational position to reach good flakes leading onto the arête. Follow the arête to the top on large holds. A superb route. [Mark Hellewell/Graham Sutton 14.06.2014]
Utah VS 4c 20m
Start from the boulders on the far right of the buttress a few metres right of the undercut arête. Climb steeply up the lower part of the buttress, trending right a little to reach a quartz band where it is possible to arrange a sling on a quartz block. Now traverse airily leftward along the horizontal flakes to pull over the overlap onto the upper slab. Follow this, finishing up the grassy gully above. [Mark Hellewell/Graham Sutton 05.06.2014]

Topo: Mark Hellewell

Victory V E1 5b 20m 
Accepts the challenge of the prominent V shaped overhang at the top of the buttress. Climb as for Utah to the quartz band, then gain the upper slab steeply and reach a good ledge beneath the overhang. Climb the finger crack up the V groove in a sensational position and gain good holds to finish. [Mark Hellewell/Graham Sutton 13.06.2014]
Neptune Slab S 4a 22m
The obvious superb looking reddish-brown, wavy patterned slab on the south face of the promontory. From tidal boulders climb steeply up for 2m on excellent holds to gain a ledge at the foot of the slab. Step right onto the slab which is followed delicately to the top on good holds. Surprisingly well-protected with cams. The slightly loose finish requires a little care. [Mark Hellewell/Graham Sutton 11.06.2014]


One Stack Zawn is just north of the Total Brewing zawn.
The Tip Off VD
Atlantic Ridge HVS 4c
The obvious flying arête feature at the northern end of the zawn. After a few moves up the left wall, the obvious arete is gained by awkward moves beneath an overlap. Towards the top the climbing eases but great care should be taken with loose rock.

Wainwright’s Pillar VS 4c
The next obvious feature to the right (facing in), and just left of a crozzley groove gives solid well protected climbing on near-perfect rock.

A Crozzley Groove VD
Tackles the obvious groove right of Wainwright’s Pillar. It has some fragile holds and nice views into the cave. [Mark Hellewell/Graham Sutton June .2014]

Lovely Day Mr Thomas E3 5b
20m to the right of the above route. Very entertaining. Left of the cave is a defined pillar and deep rightward-leaning scoop. Ascend the pillar easily and arrange protection before surmounting flakes guarding the deep and intimidating recess. After some troubles exit rightwards in an exceptional position.On the route- (it being a lovely day) – Martin recounted the tale of the poet RS Thomas, whom on receipt of the greeting “lovely day Mr Thomas” replied: “We can see that!”

Angel of the West E4/5 5c/6a
Tackles the steep diagonal line of flakes to the right of Lovely Day Mr Thomas“It’s a belting route!”, enthused George after the ascent.

George Smith on the FA of Angel of the West. Photo Tony Loxton. Source; V12 Outdoor.

Routes except A Crozzley Groove by; George Smith, Adam Wainwright and Martin Crook, April 2014

Dan McManus finding knee bars on Divided Britain, E7 6c.
© James McHaffie via

Divided Britain E7 6c
Located in ‘One Stack Zawn’. Sport 7c+/8a in its current form and should prove a popular E7 6c.James McHaffie and Dan McManus Jul/2016


Total Brewing MXS 5a/b
A good delicate slab route in the obvious rift close to the headland 600m south west of Porth Rufydd. It takes the slightly bold central line on the slab, starting from a tidal platform. There are two perlon threads in situ, but a good selection of micro wires and small wires will also be found useful.
Martin Crook and John Redhead Oct 2013

Biscuit Factory E4 35m Zawn right of the boat house zawn. Climb the rightt hand side of the overhanging bay. Holds are disposable. Possible no hands rest. A swing out left brings sanity. A classic of the genre. Mike Twid Turner and Louise Thomas 90s

Louise’s Chimney HVS 35m
Left of the biscuit factory above a blow hole /cave is a rightt slanting chimney/ramp. Grovel and climb up the fine feature. Belay on stack at top.
Louise Thomas and Mike Twid Turner 90s

Perversity in Adversity– stake is still there, easy to find and in okay condition

One new galvanised stake, two older, rusty ones

Independ Ant HVS 5a 30m.
Climbs the centre of the large quartzy wall left of The Corner. Start at the largest boulder in the cove.
Climb the lower wall through two quartz bands to pass between two vegetated patches and gain a long slabby rib which leads to the top and a belay stake.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (26/08/07). Cleaned and inspected on abseil.

The Corner
Psych ‘n’ Drown
Misty Days
Tired of Toeing the Line
High Stakes
Roberts Eve

In a Fit of Pique VS 4c
Independance slab From the foot of Roberts Eve, climb diagonally left, crossing Tired of Toeing the Line, to finish to its left.
Don Robson (solo). (18/5/96).

Walk on the Wild Side
The Mover
Plastic Pearl
Without Further Ado
Girdle Traverse
The Ramp of Pink Emulsion

Big Sardine E5 6a
From a yellow ledge below the final section of The Ramp of Pink Emulsion step down and right to a niche and then make awkward moves (a jump in fact) up into the crack/podline, eventually attaining a lying position beneath the ‘Sardine’ on a shelf before tackling the fierce final pod. Large cams egg one on. 
George Smith, Martin Crook and Tony Loxton Sep 2011

In the Zawn behind Independence Slab , before reaching Grimper/ The Prat In the Flat, there is an obvious white slab with a large overlap at on third height.– two old stakes, but these seem in okay condition.

Stormy Monday HVS 5a 30m.
The route follows the left edge of the slab crossing the overhang at its widest point. There are belay stakes at the top. It is advised the abseil rope is left in place as the last 2 meters are vertical turf. Protection is sparse on the upper wall and rock not totally dependable. D.Robson, D.Birch, M.Pretty. (26/8/92).

Straight and Narrow HVS 4c 30m.
Climbs the centre of the slab right of Stormy Monday. Take the narrow crack to the overlap which is breached at a notch. Climb straight up the centre of the slab above. There is a surprising amount of (poor) gear but a rope for the top is advised (though not used on the first ascent).
M.Gutteridge, C.Sullivan. (28/08/04).

Tidal Race HVS 5a 30m.
On the right hand side of Stormy Monday slab is a crack and corner line ending at a square cut overlap. Climb up to the overlap and traverse right. Climb the arete and then a shallow corner to an earth and grass finish.
J.Martin, C.Dale. (25/08/07).

VS 4c 29m.
Immediately right of the Straight and Narrow slab is a V shaped slab. Climb the corner in the left hand side of the slab.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (26/08/07). Cleaned and inspected on abseil.

On the V-shaped slab right of Stormy Monday etc there are 3 parallel cracks. There is a new stake directly above the slab.

Captain Haddock HVS 4c 30m *
Climbs the central crack, initially on its right.
P Johnson, E Roberts 26.07.13
Prawn Crackers Severe 30m
The right hand crack
P Johnson solo 26.07.13
Above Grimper etc – collection of old, unsightly stakes in poor condition.
The Prat in the Flat

T”Ann”trum HVS 5A 22m **
Start at the bottom of The Prat in the Flat, step across the Zawn and climb a twisting crack to the roof. Step left and up to a block in the middle of the roof, swing right onto the block and climb the weakness through the upper roof, to a step right. Finish up the quartzy line going slightly left.
C.Dale, J.Martin. (23/6/07).

The Seamed Wall VS 4c 20m.
Start at the virtually non-tidal ledge at the foot of Prat in the Flat. Climb the corner for 6m then break out left onto the steep wall. Traverse left to reach the right slanting groove and follow it to the top. Stake belay well back.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (28/05/07).

Gravidational Effect HVD 19m.
Start at the right hand end of the Prat in the Flat ledge. Climb the flake line which zig-zags up the slab to the top.
C.Gutteridge, M.Gutteridge. (25/08/07).

Zig-Zag Slab VS 4c 24m.
Start in the next corner right from Prat in the Flat. Climb up the corner past the first overlap to reach the second, paler overlap. Follow this rightwards until near the edge of the slab. Climb up and left to finish up the right facing hanging corner.c
M.Gutteridge, J.Martin. (28/05/07).

Between Zig-Zag Slab and Icameisaurus is a corner with an obvious cave
Who Needs Range West? VS 4c 25m.
Start at the bottom of a the ramp round to the left of the cave. Climb the ramp to pull rightwards round a bulge above the top of the cave. Climb up the deeply featured wall above and through an overlap to finish up the steep quartz wall.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (28/05/07).

Stacked Nuts and Bloody Crabs VS 4c 20m.
Start at the entrance of the cave left of Icameisaurus just above the barnacle line. Pull onto the quartz ledge above. Climb the rib rightwards then cross Who Needs Range West and take the gap through the roof above. Climb the groove and pull steeply rightwards onto the grooved arete. Follow this to the top and belay well back.
M.Gutteridge, J.Martin. (28/05/07).

Terms of Engagement HVS 5a 22m *
Above the right hand lip of the cave is a hanging corner. Climb up and over a bulge into the slabby corner which is climbed to the top.
J. Martin, S. Garrington (26/07/08)

Missed the Briefing VS 4b 22m
Climb the leaning arete between the two corners starting just right of Terms of Engagement.
J. Martin, S. Garrington (25/07/08)

The Day of the Jellyfish S 4a 22m
Climb the right hand corner starting up a blocky wall to the left of Icameisaurus.
J. Martin, S. Garrington (26/07/08)

Icameisaurus E4 6a 15m
Climb the obvious fin
C Waddy, J Dawes 9 Jun 88

The following 3 routes are on the island in the bay.

32.768 D 14m.
Start on the tidal platform at the seaward (SW) end of the island. Climb up from the niche at the right hand end of the face to reach a break. Trend left following a line of quartz to the top.
C.Gutteridge, M.Gutteridge. (25/08/07).

Anvil Porous HVS 5a 14m.
Climbs up to a small anvil shaped protrusion at 8m. Start below and left of the anvil 12m left of The Follow-Through Expurgation.
Climb the steep wall until an easing in the angle allows a step left to just below the anvil and finish straight to the top.
C.Gutteridge, M.Gutteridge. (25/08/07). Led onsight by Catherine with protection preplaced for the first 6m after Mike pulled a hold off and fell on the first ascent. This was Catherine’s hardest lead to date – not bad for a pregnant girl!

The Follow-Through Expurgation HVS 5a,4c 16m.
Takes the obvious crackline up the centre of the steep South-East facing side of the island.
1. 10m 5a Breach the bulging groove to enter the corner above. Belay on the large ledge on the right.
2. 6m 4c Continue up the crack in the steep fragile wall above.
M.Gutteridge, C.Gutteridge alt leads. (25/08/07).
Note that while the crackline is obvious at a distance it isn’t all that useful higher up. The route was pitched to make cleaning of the top section safer, should be worth a star if done in one pitch once the fragile bits have been removed.

Two new galvanised stakes, 15m and 20m back from the cliff edge.
Reasonable Wall
Smooth Operator
Waddy’s Edge
Midsummer Madness
Flake Out
Nempnett Thrubwell

Dreygo’s Guilt 5b.
Start just left of Hieroglyphics below a quartzy boss.Lasso the boss, with a rope, then jump upwards to a jug on it. Continue easily then move up and left till under a large roof. Wimp out of trying this but instead go left round it, marvellously steep and juggy, to gain the top and flowers etc.
C.Waddy, D.Lampard. (8/1989).

Gorgonzola Slab
Direct Finish


A collection of walls up to 20m high situated 30m south of Emmenthal Zawn. A lovely spot with surprisingly good rock which can be accessed at most states of the tide, calm seas permitting. Access is via an obvious slanting slab/chimney (an easy Diff) on the right side of the walls, looking out. There is a scramble escape up an unpleasant slope to the right looking in. Belay/abseil stake in situ.
Routes are described from left to right looking in.
1. Welsh Rarebit Severe 20m
Climbs the buttress just right of the descent chimney. Pleasant. Gain the slabby ramp leading left to the arête. Climb the crack around the arete, stepping right to finish up another crack.
P Johnson, E Roberts 24.06.13
2. Celtic Promise HVS 5b 18m *
Climbs the buttress via a vague slanting diagonal crack line. Start at the bottom left of the buttress and climb the crack line over bulges, crossing Welsh Rarebit en route.
P Johnson, E Roberts 30.07.13
Round to the right there is an overhanging wall with a cave in the corner
3. Nice Bit Of Wensleydale Gromit HVS 5a 18m *
Climb the wall to the right of the cave via the obvious fat crack to a ledge, finishing up the groove above.
P Johnson, E Roberts 24.06.13
4. Caws Trap E2 5b 18m *
Climb the distorted vertical strata in the corner to the ledge on the previous route. Steep. Finish rightwards up the pleasant ramp.
P Johnson, E Roberts 24.06.13
5. Perl Las E3 5c 18m **
Climbs the groove immediately right of Caws Trap. Step across the trench and climb up to the right. Arrange gear and swing left into the groove. Climb this to finish just right of Caws Trap. Steep but well protected.
P Johnson, E Roberts 30.07.13
6. Manchego E2 5b 18m *
Start as for Perl Las but continue straight up to a sloping ledge on the right. Surmount the bulge above, right of a short groove. Swing left along the flake to finish just right of the arête. Exciting.
P Johnson, E Roberts 01.08.13
Large zawn 60m south east of Emmenthal Zawn – stake at the top in okay condition, although this zawn is best avoided at the moment as there appears to be nesting choughs here.

Housetrap E1 5b, 4c, 4c
Traverses the north east wall of the narrow zawn just east of Emmenthal Zawn. Approach is via an in situ stake abseil into the landward end of the zawn; low tide essential. (NB. The zawn can be identified by its huge train shaped promontory.) The route follows the obvious weakness leading out rightwards with the hardest section on the first pitch. After two pitches it is possible to exit up the ‘cd rack’ corner. A perfect boulder belay can be found just on top.
Martin Crook and Andy Newton Oct 2012

Surreal Estate E4 6a

An engaging piece of climbing with adequate protection. It tackles the obvious deep crack above the start of the House Trap traverse. A bulge is climbed with difficulty to gain the ledge above; easier climbing leads up and rightwards via a wide groove.Further along in the zawn west of I am Curious Yellow.
George Smith, Martin Crook, October 2013.

The Old Steam Piano E2 5b
Climbs the big diagonal chimney/slab line. An elegant route requiring more thought than thuggery, take some large cams. Ascend the chimney to gain the slab with difficulty. Follow this with a few moves on the arete. The difficulties end at the ‘piano’ protrusion.
George Smith, Martin Crook, October 2013
George bridging up The Old Steam Piano E2 5b Photo: Tony Loxton

Age of Steam HVS 4c

Takes on the challenge of the big arete right to the right. This turned out to be“a beautiful climb with some classy positions and good protection.”Ascend the arete on good rock to a steepening at a deep flake. Climb round right of the flake for 3m then use it to move precariously back left onto the left wall of the arete which is climbed on good holds.
George Smith, Martin Crook, October 2013

Steampunk HVS 5b
Takes on the arête immediately right of The Old Steam Piano. It features delightful climbing on good rock and has sound protection. From the base of the chasm gain the arête and cracked wall. Follow the wall at its left edge with occasional moves into cracks on the right.

George Smith and Tony Loxton, 2015


New, galvanised stake on the landward end of the promontory on the north side of the bay. This allows access downthesteep, grassy slope on the north side of the bay. There is also a new, galvanised stake on the promontory on the south side of the bay above the slabs containing Winnie The Pooh, etc
The Secret of my Excess XS 5b 42m.
On the south side of the bay, from the beach at half low tide, 5 metres seaward of the black and quartzy corner. Start by climbing a short wall to a groove which leads to the first overhang. Move 2 metres left below the overhang to beneath a golden quartzy boss. Pull through here and immediately skitter rightwards on undercuts. Move up and rightwards to the weakness in the next overlap, pull up and continue directly to where the slab becomes smooth and silvery. Now it all goes to rat ****; climb up to a rightwards trending groove and follow this to a few metres below the top. Go up leftwards onto a higher slab at a loose flake and grovel over onto the boulder clay. The surface of the silvery slab is fairly temporary and protection is an illusion for the top 15 metres.
H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998).

I am Curious Yellow E6 6a 27m.
This takes the golden groove up the centre of the back wall of Pooh Bay. A.K.A: The Curious George. Abseil in from stakes at the back of the zawn.Walk up leftwards on a stepped slab to where a stream comes out from the stepped wall. Climb a grey groove to get a high runner before moving right across the rotten band to gain a sloping quartzy shelf. Reach up to undercuts. This proves to be an uneasy place to remain and a difficult place to leave. Move up and rightwards into the main groove and follow the groove up to the headwall and then easier ground just below the top. Take extra cams.
G.Huxter (unseconded). (1998). Second ascent by Twid

Parental Consent E7 6c Climbs the over hanging line left of I am Curious Yellow. Start at a vague chimney line and follow the quartz to the roof. Cams. Peg and sumount the roof from the right crossing left to the strated crack which is followed with fun to the top. Belay on stacks. Double set of cams.
Twid (louise belayed but scrambled out as she was 7 months on) 2005 september I think.
Winnie the Pooh
Teddy Bears Picnic
New, stainless stake 10m above top of Dichotomous. It would also be possible to access the routes hereabouts at low to mid tide via the stake above the slabs in Pooh Bay.
Dichotomous E3 6a

Dai-Wrecked E3
Start from a small quartz ledge, above high tide, gained by abseil from the Dichotomous stakes.
1 25m. 6a. Climb up a slab slightly rightwards to a square-cut overhang. Pass this rightwards by a contorted move into a hanging groove and continue straight up in the same line until the groove doglegs rightwards. Belay.
7m. 4c. Go easily rightwards and up in the same line to a shattered diagonal line. Crumbling remains.
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/01).

Dai-Version E3/4 33m.
A much better route taking a multitude of overhangs.
1 15m. 5c. Climb straight up to a quartz-cracked overhang. Go through this and immediately through a second overhang above. Belay on a slab.
2 17m. 5c. Go up left over a small overlap to the lower of two noses. Climb left onto this and into an uncomfortable sandy groove. Go up this and left again onto the pick of the noses. Finish up the Dichotomous slab.
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/02).

Ego Warriors E5 27m.
About 7 metres left of the top of Dichotomous at stakes, find two round bar stakes. Abseil down to a promontory and walk round right (facing in) to a ledge leading to the cove. Belay at the mouth of the cove, below a quartzy streaked wall.
1 17m. 6b. Climb the wall to a shelf, then move slightly down rightwards to good holds and steep ground. Continue up and rightwards to the top of the groove, vie a long reach, poor peg. Pull up into the groove (good peg, hidden on the right) and continue more easily on some doubtful rock to a belay on the stake.
2 10m. 5a. Of the many undesirable ways from here to the top, this is least atrocious. From behind the belay, go up slightly left then make a long step left again. Follow a weakness up slightly right to the top.
G.Huxter H.Jones. (1998).

The Fortress

Pamplona E1 5a
Pamplona RH E2 5b
The following route is on the seaward face of the virtually detached piece of land by Ego Warriors & Funny Yellow etc.Go down a steep path to a beach and up onto the top of the island. Find a huge sea cave and abseil down to ledges of the left of the cave.

Honed on the Range E5 6a
From small ledges, above high water, follow an obvious left to right traverse across the lip of the cave. Arrange protection and embark on a thrilling sequence. A very very good episode of its type.
George Smith, James Harrison. (1998). Second ascent by Mike Twid Turner and Andy Perkins.
Black Country Route VS 4c 15m. On the seaward side of the island South of Honed on the Range is a shallow cave with a sinuous cracked groove in the back wall. Climb the groove to exit the cave, finish steeply. The black rock is of very good quality and the route is an excellent little VS. M.Gutteridge, J.Martin. (26/08/07).
Dai on Demand! E4
1 6a 80ft. The through cave on the island with Honed on the range. Low tide. Traverse the rt hand side of the cave, one tricky down climb section, through under the arch to a sloping belay.
2 6a 80ft. Climb up a slab to a steep excit onto the slab above the arch.
3 80ft easy slab to the summit and tea!
Mike Twid Turner & Dai Lampard alt. 90s

At the north end of the Fortress is a subsidiary outcrop, which has an arch through it. The following routes are found on this outcrop (The Turret) in the first zawn to the north of Honed on the Range. Abseil down a snake of quartz on the north side of the zawn.

The Snake HS 4b 15m.
Climb the line of the abseil to an overhang and go through this.
Glenda Huxter (1998).

Some V.Diff Severe 17m.
Start from palatial ledges to the right of the start of the snake. Climb the slabby corner directly above the ledges.
Howard Jones, Glenda Huxter (1998).

Grazed and Confused E3 5c 19m.
From palatial ledges, move rightwards towards the cave. Climb a slab diagonally rightwards to corrugated rock on a hanging arête. Climb directly above this to a small overhang on the arête, pull through and follow broken cracks slightly rightwards to an overhang. Go over this onto a hanging slab and on to the top.
Glenda Huxter, Howard Jones (1998)

Reuben Friedman’s Empty Bed HVS 5a 25m.
Start from palatial ledges. Move round rightwards, as for Grazed and Confused. From below the corrugated arête, hand traverse into the cave and on to an overhung slab. Climb the slab rightwards to a ledge in the cave. From this ledge, if you are short, jump across the zawn to a sloping ledge opposite. If you are tall, step across without difficulty. If, however, you are of average height, beware of finding yourself with a foot in either camp and falling between two stools, ending in the —-. From the sloping ledge, climb directly up for protection then move down and left across the blow hole to climb up through it on its left-hand side.
Howard Jones, Glenda Huxter (1998)

Huxter Roof E6 6a/b
Takes an outrageous line through the left hand side of the through-cave roof on the Fortress at the southern end of The Range. According to first ascentionist, George Smith; “The route was an old project handed over by Glenda Huxter.“It’s a great route with some very unusual moves not just in the roof but the walls below. The gear is good throughout but it is worth taking a few big cams. The rock is perfect and has some unique features. It is a much better proposition in calm conditions when it has not been affected by sea-spray. Avoid the highpoint of a spring tide.” Belay in the daylight. Cross the delicate slab for 4m to a short slotted wall leading to a downward pointing plinth. Surmount this with difficulty to reach the upper crack which is followed to a back and foot rest at its mid-point. Continue in this style passing a constriction at the lip which leads to easier ground. George Smith Sep 2015. Source: V12

Bottle Zawn
Is approximately 200m west of The Allure zawn/Graig Lŵyd headland in Porth Dafarch.
Approach: from the middle car park (gr 223 799) walk south to the sea and go left/east for 50m till you see a life-ring post. The next headland east of this sports a small zawn which narrows at the top. This is Bottle Zawn
The Message E3 5b
Tackles the wall directly to a niche and then the shattered looking scoop just left of the big roofs. With good spike runners on the left, swing into the scoop to reach a juggy top-out.
George Smith and Tony Loxton May 2015. Source: V12
The Ship E3 5c
A unique and well proportioned mini-route taking the main challenge and escaping onto the opposite side of the zawn in the nick of time. Ascend to a huge block below the central overhangs. Move right to gain the three spikes, and from the uppermost of these grab good holds above whilst throwing a bridge. It’s all over then – allegedly…
George Smith and Tony Loxton May 2015. Source: V12

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales