Watership Down 34m VS 4c
A fun route which is to be found just to the left (looking out)/south when descending the upper part of the approach gully en route for the Easter Island climbs. Start at the foot of the buttress where there is a slab on the right. Climb a steep crack in the slab to an overhang at six metres, then move left and make a hard move right to enter a chimney groove which is climbed more easily then go up leftwards to a ledge on the nose. A tricky step up right on dubious holds gains the finishing groove.
Al Evans, Geoff Milburn (05/11/1978)
The routes are described right/south to left/north. The next route right of Swastika is Wrangler on The Main Cliff. The final route, Microdot is just before Wen Zawn. Sea level traverse from the Wonderwall Zawn.
Swastika 62m E1 *
A steep, committing climb on good rock, with one tricky move to start. Start beneath the obvious groove (Big Gut) immediately before the wall projects out and becomes very hard to traverse.
1 15m 5c. Drop down a few metres and traverse onto the front of the buttress. Bear rightwards up to a flake then make a descending traverse right to a stance and belay (Praetor p1).
2 10m 5a. From the base of the chimney (Praetor) move onto the right wall and ascend to a flake. Go up rightwards from this to a ledge and peg belay.
3 15m 5a. Go straight up then right to a ledge on the arete, then carry on to a second ledge, and from its left end pull over the bulge and ascend leftwards to a peg belay (as for Praetor).
4 22m 5a. Traverse left for three metres and pull onto a small slab and climb the steep crack above, moving right to finish up a small corner.
LE Holliwell, LR Holliwell, AL (17/05/1969)
Praetor 57m E1
Another committing proposition, again with one tricky move at the start. Start beneath the obvious groove (Big Gut) immediately before the wall projects out and becomes very hard to traverse.
1 15m 5c. Drop down a few metres and traverse onto the front of the buttress. Bear rightwards up to a flake then make a descending traverse right to a stance and belay.
2 21m 5a. Gain the shallow chimney and follow this and the crack above to a peg belay.
3 21m 5a. Continue, following the obvious line to the top.
Joe Brown, Ian MacNaught-Davis, (1 pt aid) 14 May 1967
A superb route taking a steep and exposed line up the black wall right of Hombre. Start as for Praetor.
1 15m 5c. Praetor p1.
2 15m 5c. Go up a shallow crack/groove bearing leftwards until a line of holds leads up rightwards across the steep wall to slabs. Belay at the base of a ramp.
3 21m 5a Take the obvious crack between Swastika and Praetor.
J Moran, P Jewell (AL) (13/06/1978).
Lost in Space 50m E4
This follows the wall to the right of Hombre. A fantastic route and a must do for devotees of the crag according to Tim Neill.
1 15m 5c. Praetor p1.
2 20m 6a. Traverse back left to climb the shallow crack system right of the arete to the top of the arete. Trend up rightwards around the rib and on to the lichenous hanging slab. Belay in the corner above.
3 15m 4b. Continue up leftwards to a ledge and finish up the wide cracks above.
Mike Twid Turner, Louise Thomas 1990s.
A brilliant and popular route with excellent climbing at its grade, good protection and solid rock. Start as for Praetor, beneath the obvious groove (Big Gut) immediately before the wall projects out and becomes very hard to traverse.
1 15m 5b Climb up into the corner above until quartz holds lead right to the arete, then go strenuously up a small groove to reach a ledge and belays on the right.
2 37m 5b Climb the groove then the steep crack above.
3 12m Easy cracks lead to the top
Joe Brown, Ian MacNaught-Davies (1 pt aid) (14/05/1967)
Boil All Irishmen 60m E5
1 30m 6b. Climb the wall left of Hombre, by two thin seams, to reach a dubious hold. Span right and move up to a sloping ledge and belay.
2 30m 4c. Step left and follow the groove, on its right side, aiming for a crack and finish up this.
Craig Smith, Martin Crook (AL on-sight) July 1986. The name may seem slightly derogatory to our Irish brothers, but it wasn’t my intention. It was based on some graffiti in Stoney Middleton cafe toilets that read ‘boil all berzins’. I took this and adapted it: At the time in Beris there was an Irish lad knocking around who was drunk most of the time and had turned a lobster pink colour – he looked like he had been boiled…so I played around with the words and came up with the name. Incidentally, Sex Lobster is also named in his honour since he was very popular with the ladies too!
A varied and interesting climb, reasonable for its grade. Start as for Praetor, below the groove.
1 15m 4c The groove leads pleasantly to a ledge.
2 10m The broken corner on the left leads to a ledge.
3 27m 4c Climb the slabby groove to small ledge, then take the broken corner to reach the top.
J Brown, D Alcock (08 Jan 1967)
Rock Island Line 45m HVS*
This climb takes the obvious arete between Big Gut and Crossover. To the left of Big Gut is an obvious break of yellow rock that trends slightly right. Start at the foot of a groove immediately right of this yellow break.
1 23m 5a. Go right and climb the fine open arete to a ledge, then take the short corner crack, as for Big Gut, to the ledge.
2 22m 5a. Take the thin flake crack in the wall left of Big Gut until an easier wide crack leads to the top.
Jim Moran, Al Evans (AL) (13/05/1978)
Crossover 50m VS
Start as for Rock Island Line.
1 15m 4b. Climb the groove to belay on a good ledge on Big Gut.
2 10m 4c. Take the crack in the right wall, then the shallow groove which leads back into the main corner, to belay as for Big Gut.
3 25m 4b. Climb steeply up the lab on the right of a thin crack in the right wall, then take the groove and a flake on the right to finish.
J Brown, P Crew (AL) (22/01/1967)
Rotten Gut 45m HVS 5a
A disgusting-looking route which goes through the yellow break. Start directly beneath the break and climb the groove by its right wall to reach the overhang. Step right then go into the break on the left above the overhang. Finish more easily above.
J Brown, P Crew (AL) (30/04/1967)
Fluke 50m HVS
Strenuous climbing up the wall between Rotten Gut and Small Gut. Start beneath a groove, a few metres right of Tape Worm.
1 15m 4b. Climb the overhanging groove diagonally rightwards to a small ledge, then move left to climb a short crack to reach a belay ledge on the left.
2 20m 5b. Move back right and go up the wall to a short overhanging crack. Go over the bulge above then step left and ascend to another ledge. Belays higher up.
3 15m 4a. Step right (as for Small Gut) to climb a crack which leads to the top.
Pete Crew, Al Alvarez (2 pts aid) (14/05/1967)
Small Gut 60m HVS
Start as for Fluke, beneath the groove a few metres right of Tape Worm.
1 20m 4a. Climb the groove to a ledge with spike belays.
2 10m 5a. Take the clean-cut groove above.
3 30m 4a. Go right along ledges for 12 metres then finish up a thin crack.
J Brown, D Alcock (08/01/1967)
Tape Worm 50m HVS
A direct line up the groove just right of the arete, with a steep top pitch. Start beneath the clean-cut groove just right of the arete.
1 10m 4c. Climb the groove to a stance on a sloping ledge.
2 12m 4c. Follow the thin diagonal crack on the left to a small ledge, then stp right to another ledge and spike belay.
3 28m 5a. Steeply climb the cracked wall, to the left of the clean-cut groove of Small Gut, straight to the top.
J Brown, P Crew (AL) (15/01/1967)
Merchant Man 45m E1
Well-positioned climbing up the airy arete between Tape Worm and Phagocyte leads to a rather gripping pitch above. Start just right of the arete.
1 20m 5b. Climb the wall just right of the arete to where it steepens, then climb the flying arete itself to a cramped stance (as for Phagocyte).
2 25m 5a. Move up right then climb the true arete which leads, thankfully, to easier rock and the top.
J Moran, G Milburn (06/05/1978)
A good hearty route up the steep crack just left of the right arete of the Wonderwall Zawn. Start beneath the obvious steep crack.
1 22m 5a. Climb the crack strenuously until a short traverse right leads to a cramped stance just right of the arete.
2 23m 5a. Go up right and make a neatly technical rightwards move to access a groove. Follow this to the top, difficulties easing with height.
J Brown, P Crew (AL) (30/04/1967)
Wonderbra E3 5c 45m
Start as for Phagocyte. Take the striking diagonal crack up rightwards from a few moves up Phagocyte. This leads to the belay ledge shared with Merchant Man, Phagocyte etc. Reverse the quartzy traverse of Phagocyte, then take its wildly steep continuation groove, initially with good gear, then boldly up the rib just right of the final section of Wonderwall. Spectacular and well protected to a bold, but steady finish.
Tim Neill, Yan Boorman on-sight May 2010
Wonderwall ***E3 6a 45m
High in the grade. A sustained pitch up the wall opposite the abseil. Start beneath the central crack. Climb the crack quickly until forced left into another crack. Follow this to the imposing roof. Pull up and rightwards (crux) into a groove which trends rightwards. Move back left on friable flakes to a small foot ledge. Move back right to climb the arete, in a fine position, to arrive at palatial belay on the arete.
LE Holliwell, DS Potts (2 pts) 19/4/69. FFA A.Sharp, J.Pasquill 1973/4
The obvious direct finish to Wonderwall.
Martin Crook, Craig Smith June 1986
Up the righthand corner of the back of easter island gully looking in. Gear is fine but a tad strenuous and bird bound (bit veggy too). Start at the foot of short steep cracks, on the right of the foot of the groove.
1. 10m 5a. Climb either the left or right crack to a good ledge and belays.
2. 35m 5c. Climb the crack from the right hand end of the ledge to an overhang. Climb the wide crack on the left to a hole. Climb the thin overhanging crack in the corner past the overhang and continue up the groove above for a few metres. Move onto the right wall and climb carefully up the arete to the top.
J.Brown, P.Crew (3 pts). FFA A.Sharp, S.Humphries, 1970s
Dan McManus on The Ragged Runnel. Photo Nick Bullock.
The Ragged Runnel E5 6a 50m
Wandering Wall E2 (fishing rod point of aid) J Brown, D Howard Jones, P Jewell 9 May 1978. FFA George Smith (on-sight, completely in bulk). (28/8/91)
Supercak E4 5b 35m
The wide crack right of Exit Groove.
Nick Bullock, Streaky Desroy 2007
The steep crack in the lefthand back corner of the zawn gives steep and well protected climbing. Climb the chimney, move left to a crack and climb to a vertical slot. Step left to a niche and finish up the crack to reach the abseil point.
Joe Brown, Peter Crew, (22/1/67)
A much better variation to Exit Groove, taking the crack between Supercrack and the lower corner of Exit Groove, moving right to finish up the latter.
Paul Trower, Ian Wilson (April 1989)
Supercrack*** E3 5c 38m
The hard to miss snaking crack to the left of the abseil. Start opposite Wonderwall, at a fang-like flake beneath the steep left hand crack. Rapidly climb the pumpy crack to a respite at 12m. Follow the kinking crack leftwards to where it steepens slightly. Continue directly to a large belay ledge. Low in the grade.
LE Holliwell (2pts). FFA Alec Sharp and C.Rogers, 17/8/74. When Holliwell did it with two points of aid he didn’t bother reporting it or naming the climb because of the aid. When I did it I thought it was a first ascent and I named it Supercrack. It was only after that it came out Holliwell had climbed it and chosen not to report it because of the aid.
Sex Lobster E3 5c 50m
The arete left of Supercrack.
Craig Smith, Martin Crook July 1986
Belial HVS 5a * 30m
Takes the steep overhanging groove in the front face of the zawn, immediately outside it in the direction of Wen Zawn. From a rock platform gain the groove and make exposed but well protected moves to finish more easily at the abseil point.
Pete Crew, Al Alvarez (5/2/67)
Variation: Belial Direct HVS 5a 30m
Gain the groove from the crack left of Sex Lobster.
A Boorman, P Bailey 21 Dec 1998
The obvious scooped crack left of Belial. Climb the wall to reach the flake crack in the middle of the scoop, follow this to the bulge and continue up the right-trnding crack to reach easier ground.
Jim Moran, Al Evans. 23/4/78
Takes a line to the left of Belial, up the left hand edge of the buttress.
LE & LR Holliwell (1 rest point) 7 Dec 1968
The arete right of Neutrino. Start below the arete right of the thin crack in the right side of the Annihilator zawn. Climb this starting on left, crux, crossing steeply to right. Then on RHS to finish on LHS.
Crispin Waddy & Paul Pritchard, 6 May 1988
The thin crack between Drag and Exit Chimney.
Al Rouse, Brian Hall 1976
The obvious slabby chimney leading rightwards out of the overhung zawn on the left.
Peter Crew, Baz Ingle 14 July 1968
The hanging prow right of Annihilator. From 20 feet up Exit Chimney, make an obvious traverse left to a “spikeless spike” and take the keel above past one peg to a rest and gear on a flying plinth. Take the wall direct past 2 portholes to a big spike and belay. Abseil or scramble off.
Paul Pritchard, Crispin Waddy 6 May 1988
Wild climbing up the overhanging wall left of Exit Chimney.
A Sharp, S Humphries (1 point) 8 March 1975. FFA Stevie Haston, Steve Andrews, 1986
The hanging prow left of Annihilator, gained from that route. This route originally had a bolt lower off belay in-situ.
Craig Smith June 1986. Second ascent George Smith 6 May 1988
The big overhanging chimney with a roof at its top and an airy continuation above. Start from a small ledge below the steep wall on the left of the chimney. Large cams and long slings useful.
1. 20m 5b. Gain and climb the chimney to a good stance in a cavern.
2. 15m 5c. Carry on.
The groove left of Ormuzd, gained from that route.
J Dawes, N Craine, 28 April 1987
The wall and hanging groove between Ormuzd and Ahriman.
1. 15m 5c. Climb the wall, move left to the arete and belay on Ahriman.
2. 25m 6b. Go back right and climb up into the groove (very baffling). Use a pocket near the top of the left arete and swarm onto a ledge. Finish up Ahriman.
ME Crook, J Silvester, 26 June 1986
The glaringly obvious, but for some reason previously unclimbed, groove left of The Ancient Mariner and directly below the mid height belay on Ahriman gives one continuous groove line of the utmost quality. Continue up the second pitch of Ahriman, running it out in one rope length to the cliff top.
George Smith and Ric Potter, July 2014.
Pergola E3 5c 30m
Tim Neill and Lee Roberts 28 May 2013.
Ahriman HVS * 35m
Very pleasant climbing up the line of shallow slanting grooves on the left wall of the zawn.
1. 15m 5a. Start well left of Ormuzd at a left trending diagonal crack. Layback up the crack and climb the groove to a stance.
2. 20m 5a. Continue up the groove.
J.Brown, P.Crew, 22/1/67
A good pitch on nice rock, with some route finding interest. It takes the orange wall left of Ahriman. Start up the left trending diagonal crack of Ahriman, but continue up this for 8 metres before moving right to a spike. Climb in to the bottomless groove above and follow this to a short corner. Follow the corner to a ledge below a second corner. From the bottom of this corner move left on to the wall and climb direct to the top.
L.E. Holliwell, L R Holliwell, Dave Mossman (1/12/68)
Start as for Perpendicular. Follow the crack until holds lead up right to the small overgang. Surmount this with difficulty and head up right to a flake. Step left and climb the steep open corner and a final corner/crack to the top.
Jim Moran, G Milburn, 29/4/78
The overhanging wall and crack left of Tumbling Dice (Petes Eats write up verbatim).
Johnny Dawes on-sight solo, 22 May 1988
Start as for Ahriman
2. Go left into the groove of Diagonal, then take the obvious flake crack out across the wall and finish direct.
Al Evans, Jim Moran 23/4/78. p1 previously by G Milburn, S Horrox, 20 May 1978
The obvious arete left of Perpendicular.
1. 15m 5c. Climb the arete using the thin crack on it’s left hand side to a good ledge.
2. 15m 5b. The groove and crack in the arete above.
Joe Brown, F Corner, D Jones (1 pt aid. 2 May 1978). FFA Martin Crook, Noel Craine June 1986
Start beneath the shallow groove left of Belvedere, climb it and finish up the wall on the right.
Joe Brown, Dave Alcock. 8/1/67
Start as for Diagonal, follow this for 6mts to the arete, Climb the arete on the right to the finish of Perpendicular.
Al Evans, Jim Moran, 23/4/78
The diagonal crack left of the groove of Diagonal.
The crack left of Micron, over the bulge at half height to finish up an easy corner.
Jim Moran, G Milburn. 29/4/78