Slightly further on than Penlas Rock, is a hidden zawn with a sea cave. The original line of the zawn, Natalie, follows the bomb-bay chimney at the left hand side of the cave.
Fat Tulips Garden HVS 25m
A poor route on mostly bad rock. Start to the left of the chimney of Natalie and Crispy Piss Flaps. Go up a slab and move right and up to a hanging chimney, via a foot severing block.
M.Crook, J.Toombs. (1995/96).
Crispy Piss Flaps 23m HVS
Wide crack on left of cave goes through 2 roofs. Full on, wide, open and hairy.
Paul Pritchard and George Smith, 18/11/92.
The next two routes start up a bomb-bay chimney, just left of the cave.
*Bryngwran Man 30m E4 5c
An excellent route on mostly good rock, with good protection. Start up the chimney of Natalie but continue straight up to a roof. Surge over this direct to finish up a small hanging groove, past the odd mobile hold. Disappointing belay up on the left.
George Smith and Adam Wainwright, 1996.
Named in honour of the gatekeeper to central Anglesey.
**Natalie 45m Originally graded E2 5b but gets E4 5c in the Gogarth South guide! (R)
An excellent route taking a line over the lip of the sea arch. Start below the chimney, and climb it on generous jams and large quartz holds, to a continuation groove. Step right and follow a delightful traverse line, in a great position, over the top of the cave. After passing a large boss, step right and climb a groove to belay amongst the plant life at the top.
Stevie Haston, G.Everett, Celia Bull, 1 Aug 1988.
Following the path south from Ellens Tower the path runs out at a fence. Hopefully new CrOW act talks on Coastal access will remedy the situation with the access. A hop over a fence and a stealth run to the bottom corner of the field some 100m further on leads to access to both Blacksmith’s and Natalie Zawn.
The awesome sea cave of Blacksmith’s zawn is to the right facing out, an elaborate abseil can be rigging to approach this steep zawn.
South West Passage 30m HVS (R)
Start 10 m or so left of communal start of Angel Dust, Compass etc at an obvious steep leaning off width crack.
1. 20m 5a/b Take the steep off width …. Fortunately with good nut protection on its right wall….belay on a good stance below the obvious continuation corner of The Compass.
2. 10m 5b Finish up the goey corner of The Compass…excellent protection
Tim Neill, Donald King. 18/10/2015.
The Compass 30m E1 (R)
Start under the obvious overhanging quartz flake.
1 18m 5b. Climb the groove to the quartz flake, and continue on overhanging flakes, stepping left to a rest. Move back right and climb more flakes and a groove to a block belay.
2 12m 5b. Climb the easy looking crack and wall in a fine position to a loose finish.
Ray Kay, Leigh McGinley (AL) on-sight, March 1988
The Magic Roundabout 35m E6 6b (R)
Start at the belay for Angel Dust. Climb up to a quartzy break and follow it parallel to Angel Dust. Climb up to an v-shaped roof and make a committing reach for a good hidden hold. Tricky for all sizes. Twid as a short arse and for Tim Neil seconding! Finish strenuously up top.
Mike Twid Turner, Tim Neil first proper free ascent 2005. (The climb was previously attempted with Dougal Taverner, Twid made the first ascent with a rest point and placing some gear on a hang. Dougal lead it on Twids gear. Twid returned to make the proper ascent from the ground placing gear on the way with Tim).
Ermintrude 36m E6 6a *** (R)
The left hand finish to Angel Dust. Slightly harder and weirder. Follow Angel Dust to the niche. Go left over a roof and straight up to a deep crack/groove. Blunder up this to slabs. Outstandingly nice and good protection.
George Smith, Adam Wainwright (on-sight), 21 Nov 1994.
Angel Dust 36m E6 6a *** (R)
A sensational arm-blaster, taking the rightwards slanting line of monsterous jugs, flakes and ledges on the left side of the zawn. Lots of big kit required to weigh you down. Abseil down the slabby rocks on the right side (looking out) of the zawn/cave and belay from ledges (emerged at mid-tide) beneath the initial steepening. Confidently gain height, heading off rightwards for a niche. Continue rightwards past a hard bit and keep going into a short groove and a rest. launch out to jugs on the lip of the steep stuff and flop over onto the easy finishing slab.
Stevie Gaston & Ray Kay, 28 Aug 1988.
Thug 50m E7 *** (R)
Two very distinguished pitches. Start from a good ledge under the roof, right of the previous route. A full set of cams obligatory.
125m. 6b. Ascend the short wall to the huge underclings. The roof crack out there behind ones head is gained via a flange. Jam furiously to a more gentle groove and stance at a ledge.
2 25m. 6b. Exit down right from the ledge and dissapear into a deep groove. Appear at the top of the groove after dealing with sustained difficulties. Exit, slightly rightwards up a slab at the top.
George Smith, Leigh McGinley (AL), with Debbie “chips” Quinn. Aug 1994.
The Bogle Roof 25m E6 6b (R)
The massive flake in the large roof right of Thug.
George Smith, Noel Craine, 2005.
Seven Types of Angularity E5 50m *** (R)
An amazing route up the obvious slanting groove running over the left side of the cave. Ideally suited to a contortionist. Start on a big ledge to the left of the cave, under a roof.
1.6b. Climb the slab easily rightwards to the roof and further right to the arête. Swing round and enter the hanging groove with difficulty to a rest. Further awkward shuffling is eventually rewarded with a rest on the lip of the cave, in a superb position. Move right across the lip and slightly down to a belay in the base of the corner on the right.
2. 5a. Move up until forced onto easier ground on the right. Continue up to the top.
Crispin Waddy and George Smith (on-sight), 1992.
Red Rocket 50m E6 ** (R)
A steep and flamboyant little pitch, followed by a fine and serious top pitch. Start beneath a short chimney on the left edge of the cave.
1. 6b. 25m. Climb easily up to the chimney and span left to join Seven Types of Angularity on the arête. Follow this into the groove and awkwardly turn around. Strenuously pull out left to undercuts on the steep hanging wall and desperately work left to the arête. Go up to belay on the ledge. It is also possible to go more directly from the undercuts to the ledge. This pitch is above deep water and so makes a good solo, followed by a dive off the ledge or reverse down the ramp on the left.
2. 6a. 25m. From the break above the ledge, committing moves up the bubbly groove gain a hidden peg on the right. Further worrying moves lead up the slanting groove/rib, peg, to a swing right into the larger corner and good gear (junction with Thug). Continue gibbering to the top.
Pete Robins, Ben Bransby, 19 Aug 2003. Both led pitch 1. (P1: GU by Pete, P2: OS by Pete).
P1 DWS by Adam Wainwright 3 Sep 2003.
(The pegs on P2 were placed years before by Leigh.McGinley as a potential P2 for Thug).
The following two routes start from the right side of the cave.
Bats in the Belfry 35m E7 *** (R)
This difficult route climbs the stunning roof crack through the cave itself. A fine test of jamming skills. Start mid way into the cave at a slab beneath the only entry to the crack.
1 25m. 6b. Climb the short slab and use undercuts to gain the roof crack. Follow this through three crux sections to the lip in a wild position. Belay on the right at a small ledge. A large rack is required.
2 10m. 5a. Climb more easily to the top.
Andy Cave and Ian McNeill, 1 rest point, Sep 1991. FFA Andy Cave and Noel Craine, 1998.
Andy Cave on Bats in the Belfry. Photo copyright Andy Cave.
The Light That Didn’t Shine
45m XS *** (R)
A fantastic voyage through the large cave to emerge in Smurf Zawn. A definite must for every coastaleer. Probably, best treated as a sea-level traverse. Mid to low tide with calm seas will increase the chances of staying dry. From the right side of the cave, traverse just above the water into the darkness. Cross over onto a ledge on the back wall and teeter rightwards, lured by the distant light. Head up through a squeeze onto a ledge then carry on up and out to meet Green Light a few meters above the sea. Finish up this (ropes recommended) or descend back to sea-level and traverse out at the base of the King of the Swingers Wall. Alternatively, make a high but easy traverse (above deep(ish) water) across the King of the Swingers wall to safety.
Stevie Haston and Celia Bull, Nov 1988 “length – measureless, quality – unsurpassable, grade – sporting”.
From V12; http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/09/09/back-to-black-smiths-e1-5b-blacksmith%E2%80%99s-zawn/ . . .
Back to Black-smiths E1/2 5b (R)
A worthy addition right of the cave entrance to The Light That Didn’t Shine.
Start about 10m left of the entry scramble (looking at the crag from the sea), on a flat rib. Climb diagonally up and left, heading for an obvious groove to the left of an overhang. Go up the groove and finish direct over a bulge.
Ric and Kate Potter, Sep 2011.
Kate Potter on the upper section of Back to Black-smiths E1 5b, Blacksmith’s Zawn Photo: Ric Potter