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Hidden Zawn / The Loathsome Cleft | North Wales Climbs

Hidden Zawn / The Loathsome Cleft

On the sea level traverse between the Loathsome Cleft and the Upper Tier, there is a through cave. Facing its northern end is a steep red wall. Around to the left is a slab in a corner – the easiest way out.
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The Sweet Smell of Excess XS
1 32m. 5b. Climb a short wall on the left to a step onto the slab. Climb the corner to a roof then step out rightwards to a ledge. Move up to a better ledge beneath the steep wall. Climb this leftwards up to some loose rock and move up to easier ground and broken ledges on the left. Good belay.
2 50m. 5a. It would be pointless to describe the next 7 metres since it is temporary edifice in a state of flux. Above this the vegetation is only just beginning to re-establish itself after the fire of a few years ago, the ground being a fine shifting dust. Climb upwards for nearly 40 metres to a flat, white boulder. Take a stance behind this, buttocks firmly clenched around a small gorse bush. Destined to become a classic!
Howard Jones and Glenda Huxter, 1/7/00.
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The Loathsome Cleft AKA Hidden Zawn AKA Juniper Gully
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Another hidden and less frequented zawn.
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FEU 123 ELF XS 50m
Climb via the cave in the left wall of the gully.
S Haston, P Norton, R Kay, May 1987.
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Hale Bop E3 5c,5b
Climbs the wall left of FEU 123 ELF via a red pillar. Two pitches split by an obvious ledge in a wall of soft rock. An outing for soft rock enthusiasts!

Mike Twid Turner and Simon Hale 2000s.

The Brightness Beckons E3/4 45m
A brilliant pitch for the position and grade. Climb the roof of the cave at the bottom of the left hand side of the loathsome cleft. Bridging and jamming leads to an easy slab and the top.
Mike Twid Turner and Simon Hale 2000s.
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Harry and Ida Swap Teeth E2 5b 30m
Continue down below FEU 123 ELF to the beach. The route follows a leftwards rising band of red rock on the north promontory of the zawn, bounded on the left and right by slabs. Traverse 20 metres from beach to ledges below the steep red rock, not easy. Climb up steeply on weathered brown rock to a ledge. Traverse left and up to a cleanly cracked block. Above and left, the terrain becomes steeper and leads to a headwall, topped by a small overhang. From below this, move rightwards onto a slab and up for 5 metres to belay on top of the pinnacle.

Howard Jones and Gill Lovick, 2000s.

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales