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Australia East | North Wales Climbs

Australia East

These areas are found on the opposite side to the main climbing area. They are a little bit further away and often have a more adventurous feel.

Vilcapampa level

The Fin of rock is Where green ants Dream. the through trip is yet to be completed due to real danger of death.

After crossing down the oil drum glacier you cross the salt pans and arrive at the east side. below is the Vilcapampa (with its dodgy slanting ladder)

Walk to the far side of the level past the slabby boulder, interesting overhanging face and the dodgy looking lader. Until you end up at the far side of the level here is a fin of rock sticking out. Taking the obvious outer chimney line is

Not quite snakes and Ladders HVS/MXS 4C. 20m
The chimney is climbed with tricky/greasy chimneying moves leading to the “loose blocks which have formed a thread” Here the climbing gets easier however the rock is looser as you follow the route directly upwards rather than taking the nicer line breaking further in to the chimney.
E.Russell 25/6/10 (Solo O/S)

is this on the level above vilcapampa? (Vilcapampa is the one where the diagonal slanting ladder starts and a couple of trees) or on the outside of the leaning fin of where green ants? I don’t remember a chimney last visit but things fall open…

Botany Bay Level

Snakes and Ladders F4 Climbs the obvious slabby feature on the Botany Bay Level, 7 bolts lead to a lower off / belay. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 29/01/09

Wave Rock F6c Climbs the attractive ‘Wave’ feature on the steep wall between Sylvanian Waters and Botany Bay, 7 bolts lead to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 21/02/09

Impact Zone F7a 16m New Route. Follow Wave Rock to the 4th Bolt before breaking left out of the groove; follow the line of bolts to a lower off. A technically interesting and sustained route on good rock. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Lead) 06/03/09

The Road to Botany Bay F7a 5 bolts to a lower off. Bolts replaced / added 19/3/08

Birthday Girl F7bish (I really don’t know!) New Route. Takes the attractive flake line on the wall to the right (looking in) of the ladders that lead down to this level. The crux will be ‘just’ a reach for taller folk (maybe F7a/+) otherwise it involves hard moves out right to thin sidepulls then back left for shorties. 4 bolts and a lower off. F.A Jon Ratcliffe 16/03/10

G’Day Arete Level

Walk this way F6c New route left of Hogiau Pen Garett. Start by climbing the tricky / reachy shallow groove to gain the ledge above, foot traverse across the face using tiny but positive handholds for balance, a better hold and a precarious stride gains the arete, continue up the slab with some tricky moves initially, easing to gain the lower off above. 9 Bolts lead the way. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sam Beesley 2/6/08

Hogiau Pen Garett F6a+ New route left of Koala Brothers. Start to the right of the rusty pipe and cable, 8 bolts lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. I Lloyd-Jones and P Targett (both led) 21/04/08

The Koala BrothersF6b Climbs the dolerite **** above shed 100m left of G’day Arete. The start is the crux and the top is tricky. 8 bolts to twin bolt L/off. 19/5/08 Josie Ball. (TAKE CARE on the roof of the shed, it’s starting to collapse! Could be sorted by moving something solid to stand on onto the roof e.g. the wooden telegraph pole or some old pipes etc ILLJ)

(Update 05/04/09: shed roof partially collapsed while I was standing on it today. It is currently VERY dangerous. Have a look inside and you will see why. A NEW BOLT SHOULD BE PLACED FOR THE BELAYER TO HANG ON ASAP)
G’day Arete F6c.**** 6 bolts to lower off. GREAT ROUTE ALERT!!!!
Serpentine Vein F8b New route up long snaking dolerite vein on east side of Australia.
F.A: Harry Potter [04/2007]Spicy Little Octopus, F6a+ * 20m. New route. Start by the ruined building furthest along the level beneath a short wall and obvious corner with a tree at the top. 7 bolts to a lower off. Good! F.A. Keith Archer and Matt Farram 4/5/2013

The Far Out Level

The Curious Incident F6a New route, climbs the slabby side of the obvious arete left of To infinity and beyond! 7 Bolts lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 2/05/08
To infinity and beyond! F6b New route, climbs a line up the main slab / wall left of the top of the ladder which gives access to this level from the G’day level. 10 bolts lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sam Beesley 22/04/08Ride like the wind! F6b+ New route, climbs a sweeping line up the main slab / wall right of ‘To Infinity and Beyond’. Start as for the previous route up to the 2nd bolt, move right and follow the line of 8 resin bolts to the lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 4/05/08

Cirith Ungol F7a/F7a+? New Route, climbs an intricate and sequency line up the steep Dolerite vein (right of Ride Like the Wind!) 5 Bolts protect and lead the way to a double bolt lower off. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 20/05/08

Atticus Finch F6c New route. Climbs the groove in the arete on the right hand side of the level. An easy stepped start leads to a unique finishing sequence best climbed like a duracell bunny. 4 bolts to a twin bolt lower off. F.A. P Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 4/05/08

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales