This area is popular and has some classic slate frighteners and some modern sport climbs.
There has been a massive rock fall in the Shame and embarrassment area, all routes between bar of soap and stairlift to heaven are affected, and possibly some eastern european new routes to be had.
Never Never Land
Most of the routes on the main slab have eco anchors at present. These include Short Stories, Kubla Khan, Meltdown, Watch Me wallaby…..which were re-equipped in 1993/4
A few route remain to be re-equipped.
Patellaectomy E1***. New belay, bolt as already stainless and good. 03/07.
Mixed Climbing Area near Monkey Bar
On the left-hand wall: Cry Wolf M9 **
Climb the left-hand rampline, via a difficult start, to just below the niche. Climb the wall left of the niche to join One Hundred Words above. Finish up the challenging headwall. A little easier than One Hundred Words..
Pete Harrison, 12.02.12
* The first bolt is too low and the moves are sketchy – I recommend stick-clipping the 2nd until l get back there to replace the first bolt.
One Hundred Words For No Snow M9 ***
The initial diagonal seam manages to be both a bit tenuous and a bit strenuous with excllent climbing up to a breather in the niche. A drilled pocket above the niche gives access, via hard-to-spot footholds and a reach, to the upper wall where torques, steinpulls, a dyno and some footless matching lead to a couple of very thin moves rightwards. A cruxy move up with tricky feet gains a pocket and the upper crack, which is followed with interest to the lower-off.
Pete Harrison, 28.02.12
On the back wall:
The Deerhunter M7
Start in the short corner to the left of the tunnel. Fairly straight-forward but sustained climbing leads to a more technical and powerful crux between the last two bolts. Take a quick draw for the chains as the in-situ locking ‘biner is hard to open with one hand. 6 bolts FA Torquil Bennett 9/10/11
Powerful and reachy climbing utilizing the shallow flake system above the tunnel entrance, with a couple of exciting ‘designer danger’ run outs. Figure-four the right hand shot hole to start, and straight away move into a series of very tenuous and powerful locks up the flake system until an all-out launch leftwards leaves you pondering the drop. Another powerful lock up leads to a move back right, the last bolt, and a lonely lead to the chains.
Rob Gibson, 26.11.10
Ibex Direct M8
Tunnel start – two meters inside the tunnel on the left there is a small foot ledge and a drilled side pull, start here then lock off and swing over the roof on a large thread hole. Side pulls and steinpulls take you out off the tunnel to the lower seeping shot-hole.
Powerful moves from the shot-hole and two steinpulls brings you out onto the wall, pull your way with past two hooks until you reach the marginal left-hand footholds of Ibex. Continue up these until the third bolt, either join Ibex here and climb up to its welcome rest, or stay left and blast up joining Ibex at the 5th bolt. The final section is an eliminate but provides a good sustained route at the grade. No new holds were needed after the initial two hooks so Ibex remains the same. 6 bolts. F.A. Rob Greenwood 8/01/12 (exc. Tunnel start)
Ibex. M7 (changed from M8, Pete H)
A good sustained route with fun moves and a crux near the top, though maybe not the easy warm-up route its builders intended it to be. The route is on the back wall, just right of the tunnel. Start next to the boulder – there may be a Quarryman’s clip-stick in place for the first bolt. Monopoints and jug-handle tools pretty much mandatory, or take the M10 tick for a ‘Vertiges with homemade leashes and dual-point crampons’ ascent.
Route created by Owen Samuel & Rocio Siemens. F.A. Pete Harrison 19/02/09.
Monkey See Monkey Do E2 5b
Start 2m left of patellaectomy-climb direct through the overhang (small wires) to arrive at a horizontal break,traverse this rightward and up a small crack system. A tougher section at the top leads to an easy finish.FA Si Beal,Andy Scott,Nick Harford 23.06.08
Beyond the Pail F7a ,1 bar for aid
Start as for Pail Rider at the 4 shot holes at the base of the wall. Use these ( Don’t delve too deep as they’re full of water at the back! ) to gain the right hand flake and follow this to a small ledge and the third bolt. Step precariously left to the first shot hole under the bars. Keep going up the wall to the good edge on Patellaectomy and rock over to grab the right hand bar,(a short sling handy for protection) mantle this and head diagonally right to another bolt. Thin moves lead out to the last bolt near the arete, joining Pail Rider for its final moves and lower off. An enjoyable and airy pitch.
F.A Andy Scott, Jon Ratcliffe 25/06/08.
Pail Rider F6c+
Start at the 4 shot holes at the base of the wall and follow the flakes out past three bolts. Thin sidepulls, tasty footwork and a long stride out right to gain the flake out near the arete with a small ledge and bolt. Up the short crack to an awkward mantel onto the ledge below the final arete. Reach out left to clip the last bolt and pull onto the wall and arete with a fierce little pull for the lower off. F.A Andy Scott, Jon Ratcliffe 24/06/08.
A Little Pail F6b+
Starts a couple of metres right of the previous route. Climb the pleasantly delicate shallow groove to a niche, pull into and up this to the base of a short crack on the left and a junction with the previous route. Continue following the ‘Pail Rider’ to it’s lower off, the crux being exactly that.
F.A Jon Ratcliffe, Andy Scott. (25.06.08)
Dyke Rider E2 5b
As you enter the bay a mini dyke on the right next to a tunnel stands out.Climb this pleasently past 2 bolts to a point where an obvious tricky section looms,press on through to big holds and a 2 bolt LO.FA Si Beal,Andy Scott,Jon Ratcliffe (all led) 25.06.08 -(nb the bottom 1/2 may have been climbed b4 as a very rusty stub was found during cleaning operations)
Penblwydd Hapus (i Fi) F6c
Bolted groove above tunnel entrance, with a slightly bold but steady diagonal finish leftwards to the top of **** Rider. First bolt was missing but now in place. FA: Si Panton 01.05.2010
OFFA`S F6b 15m NEW ROUTE.
First line on the right as you enter the bay, up the middle of the steep wall, five bolts to a chain lower off lead the way. Nice climbing, the crux being in the middle, past the overlap, allthough fairly steady all the way.
F.A. Chris Davies, Mark Williams. 08/05/10.
Hawkeye F5c* – New route on extreme left of area behind ventilation tower. 6 Bolts to a new 2 bolt lower off. Reachy! F. A I Lloyd Jones and Colin Goodey.
Fresh Air F6a**-New route taking a direct line between Hot air crack and Breaking Wind- This route is close to the old route Breaking Wind, either way it is good and colin had spoken to the FA who was more than happy to have his route retro bolted.
FA-Colin Goodey and Kath Goodey(both led).19th July 2007
Swiss Air F6c * New Route right of fresh Air 8 bolts to a lower off. Technical start. FA Tim Mueller and Ian Lloyd-Jones 6/3/11
State of the Heart F6c+ ** New route behind hot air shaft. Use long quick draws, move right above last bolt. FA Mike Raine 22.03.08 in snow showers!
Yossarian F6b New route. Climbs the overlapping slab between the two obvious aretes. 7 bolts to a double bolt lower off. Move right to pass 3rd bolt on layaways. FA P.A.Targett I.LLoyd-Jones 29.05.08.
Steps of Escher New route F6c
The hanging arete to the right of YOSSARIAN. Pad up the black slab to the foot of the v groove. Swing up and left and follow the line of 5 bolts to a double bolt lower off. Steep climbing on big holds which run out for the crux rockover through the top roof. F.A. P.A.Targett. I.LLoyd-Jones 14.06.08
TOMBS WALL AREA.
(Between Nurenburg and the main slab)
Back in the Saddle F6b 20m *
Start as for tomb raider, after second bolt, go up and left following a line of three more bolts, to a double bolt lower off . really good climbing , tricky move by the third bolt, exciting moves to the lower off !
F.A. Chris.Davies, Ian Loyd Jones, 28/05/09
Tomb Raider F6a,3a,6a/6a+*
New 3-pitch sport route.
Start : To the left of the impressive main slab lies a huge complex wall (‘Tombs Wall’-my name!) rising over 100ft This route starts below the middle of the wall at a short concrete coated slab.
L1 15m F5c: Climb directly up this slab past 2 bolts to where the slab meets a ramplike arete abuting the wall above.climb over or around the nose(interesting moves!) to gain a series of mantleshelves leading past 4 bolts to a ledge with bolt belays
(to go on from here will cause rope drag and will remove some of the charm!)
L2 8m F3a
Traverse right along Dandelion ledge to gain another airy perch on the far arete-bolt belays.
L3 12m F6a/6a+
Climb directly up the corner to below the roof (2bolts).Either climb directly over the roof 6a+ or move out left and up(bolt) to rejoin the corner 6a .Continue delightfully up the corner crack (3bolts) to a good stance and bolt belays.
FA-Colin Goodey,Sue goodey and Bryn Williams.19th oct.07
362 (F5b, 5c)
Igam Ogam E4 6a 3 bolts replaced + Belay Bolt at the top…all bolts now well away from the top section of Never Never Land.(Old Bolts still need to be removed) 4/6/07
New route on S.West wall (walls running at right angles to N.N.Land slabs)
Starts 30m to the right of the entrance to the amphitheatre(turdongorge!!) A hidden facet of slab gives access to the steep wall above(2bolts) This 20′ slab ends on an edge below the Gargoyl (bolt) which forms the crux-difficult balance moves allow the gargoyl to be surmounted followed by more awkward moves past 2bolts leading to easier climbing to a double bolt lower off.-15m.
FA: Kath Goodey,Colin Goodey,Del Smith.14th August 2008.
NB: We would appreciate feedback on on our provisional grade-also,as with all new slate routes
loose rock (in spite of cleaning) may be found but will diminish with traffic.
New Routes in the Gorge beyond the main Never Never Land slab
Releasethe Kraken F6b+ * 22m
New Route left of The Carbon Stage. 7 bolts to a lower off. FAIan Lloyd-Jones 18/1/11
Titan F4c 25m *
New route in blind bay to right of Carbon Stage on very edge of buttress. A superb,easy,long, exciting steep pitch which will prove very popular (Dali’s?)
Start near right edge of the ‘blocky’ buttress. After a rockover to the left the route moves to the right edge and climbs steeply up past 7 bolts to a double chain lower off.
FA :Colin Goodey & Mark Hellewell & Sue Trainer 23rd July 2010.
Another brilliant addition to this unlikely and neglected area.
The route follows a line between Carbon stage and Titan and follows steep blocky bulges to a small shelf below a mantle (ok if your 6ft or near otherwise a dyno!). 6 bolts lead to the shared chain of Titan.
FA: Mark Hellewell &Colin Goodey 25th July 2010.
It is my endeavour to develope this bay as an alternative to Dali’s and these two routes form the opening gambit. The idea being to produce easy accessable, enjoyable easyto mid grade sport routes for all to enjoy. Four more routes in the lower grades are mapped out here. Before the drill went cold-two foreign climbers rushed up these climbs and loved them-a sign of things to come I hope!
Graze Anatomy. f6a+ 19m.
New route situated beyond Zeus and Titan etc at the head of the gorge.
Starting off the scree slope: A tricky mantelshelf to the right of the first bolt provides the crux of this route. After reaching right to clip the second bolt you gain a good sized ledge from where you can climb the right hand side of the obvious slab above at a more amenable grade.
6 bolts to double lower-off. F.A: Graham Sutton and Mark Hellewell. 18th Sept 2013
The next two new routes weave their way up the buttress/Arete situated between Andy Pandy and Release The Kraken. Some loose rock. Always a good idea for the second to wear a helmet.
Operation Zig Zag. 19m. f5b
Just to the left of Release The Kraken, this route zig zags up the arete. 7 bolts to double Lower-off.
F.A: Graham Sutton and Mark Hellewell. 17th Sept 2013.
Dog and Bone. f6a. 20m.
Starts with delicate moves up clean rock right of Andy Pandy and weaves it’s way up the left hand side of the buttress. 7 bolts to double lower-off.
F.A: Mark Hellewell and Graham Sutton. 18th Sept 2013
Obsession F6b,F5c. **
New 2 pitch sport route taking an impressive line up a hitherto unclimbed wall-excellent quality route,rock and situation.
The route lies in the area opposite Never never land slab and behind some mammouth blocs
(Giant boulder area-my name!) start in a hidden bay behind these huge blocs..
L1 17m F6b :Make hard moves to gain a mantleshelf followed by harder moves to gain a sloping shelf(the original layback flake became loose and was removed) crux F6b.Continue up the corner to the foot of a steep slab which leads to a good ledge with bolt belays.7bolts protect.
L2 12m F5c.:Continue up the corner for a few metres before stepping out boldly to the left to gain
the steep ‘flying arete’.Climb this in fine position to an impressive mantelshelf finish which leads to a double bolt belay/lower off.-6 bolts and a peg protect. A very fine pitch.
FA : Colin Goodey and Mark Hellewell,June 6th 2008
NB : The top anchors have been placed to allow the route to be done in one pitch using a 60m sport rope.