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The Sidings | North Wales Climbs

The Sidings

This level now has a number of good routes, although short are well bolted and on good rock across the lower french grades. This area is well worth the walk up and is in the sun after 11.00am great for winter climbing.

PLEASE TAKE CARE IF PEOPLE ARE CLIMBING ON RAILTRACK SLAB BELOW. LAST SUNDAY A BIT OF SLATE NARROWLY MISSED A CLIMBER

Bolt condition reports

All of the bolts have been placed since 2006. After very heavy use by climbers and climbing centres we the North Wales Bolt Fund had to test and replace many of the lower off as they were extremely worrying. Most of the work has been carried out. Please join up and mention any routes that are in need of attention.
Gentle LayBack V0- To the left of Shothole arete using the last obvious slab feature layback from a SDS. E Russell 03/04/09Shothole Arete V0 Climb the arete with a shothole in it! E Russell 03/04/09

Loose Block Corner V0 Pull on the loose block tentatively then continue up the dirty corner. Would be worthwhile after lots of traffic.E Russell 03/04/09

Puffing Billy V0+ Ten paces to the left of ‘N’ Gauge there is a small tree growing out of the slate. To the left of this is a corner. Climb the corner with a couple of nice moves. 30/08/08 Charlie Jordan (solo)

With a Little Help From A Tree V2/3 Start beneath the tree, the crux is getting the tree and then continue upwards with assitance from the tree and left hand arete. Highball! E Russell 03/04/09

Not Known 6a+ – Just left of the Glass Axel. Replace 1st bolt after it feel out with resin 4/2017. Check the rest which seemed fine.

GLASS AXE E5 7a 7-8m.
The left facing groove just to the left of `N`Gauge`,very tricky!
F/A, Andy Woodward, (solo) summer of 86!
p.s. I believe the route can now be done by clipping the bolts on the next route,with a potential swing at the top if you fall, allthough obviously not E5 for that tick!
(drilled some lower offs holes above top of groove , will put in soon as)(06/12)

‘N’ Gauge F5b/c?(info on uk climbing logbooks says loose flake gone and overgraded at 6a) Follows narrow pillar at the most left end of this level. 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. Nov/07 Josie Ball

Side line F4c Climbs out right from first bolt of ‘N’ Gauge 5 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off.27/1/08 Josie Ball.Derailed F4b Climbs the corner just left of “Thomas the tank” start direct then move right. 3 bolts + twin bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball.

Thomas the Tank * F4a line between “‘n’Gauge” and “Sodor” following slabby rock with crux at the top.4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Archie Ball
Rack and Pin ** F5b+ line left ofSodor corner + slab crux passing top bolt. 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Josie Ball
Sodor ** F5c Follows the hairline crack left of the centre of the wall , where the crack terminates at the horizontal feature continue straight up to lower-off 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 13/10/Italic [Ctrl+I]07 Josie Ball
The Mallard ** F5c Line between Sodor + Polar express – slab line 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Josie Ball
Above The Line. HVS 4c (or so it says in the last two guide books)
Alternative start hvs 5b. Climbs the thin crack right of the normal start to Above the line to its traverse. Follow this to the top. May have been done before. P.Targett solo 05/10/07
Polar Express * F5b, Utilises Phils start ? to continue direct where ATL goes right ,4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 13/10/07 Josie Ball THIRD BOLT ON THIS ROUTE IS LOOSE AND BENT 17/05/2010
Ivor the Engine F5a climbs the slab to the right of last route crux at the top. 3 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball.
Gordon * F3c Slab and corner right hand side of the slab. 3 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off. 16/12/2007 Archie Ball.The Level Crossing F5c ** A traverse of the slab following the distinct break at half height, start up “Rack and pin” then follow break to finish at “Ivor the Engine”. 7 bolts + twin bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball.

Being  a Bob F4c – Just right of the main slab, starting next to a two bolt belay for routes on the raiultrack. Pull over the bulge and make you way up and left past four boys to a lower off. Mark reeves and Simon Geering 3/2017.

‘Those who climb clearly marked projects are the kind of people who would steal the chocolate bar from a kids lunch box – selfish tossers, who owe the bolt fund cash’ **– F5b/c – 4 bolts + twin Bolt lower-off FA C Parkin 2.8.1986 re-equipped Feb 2008.
A not so new route, soloed in August 1986 at the same time as Above The Line, but never claimed at the time. The groove “nich” route 50m right of Polar Express.
Choo Choo F5a/5b Arete and groove right of last route 4 bolts + twin bolt lower off. 28/2/08 Josie Ball. One of the final jugs is very loose & the whole piece lifts vertically about half an inch. Be warned. Not using it makes the route a grade or two harder but safer.
Hogwarts Express F5c? Climbs the stepped corner 55m of “Gordon” crux at top josie moved left at top due to lack of reach so not sure of the grade for direct. 3 bolts + twin bolt lower-off. 27/1/08 Josie Ball .
The Railway Children * F5c/6a ( did route at last about 5c for tall 6foot plus harder for short , with start and finish being much more difficult , must have been 6a+ for josie at her height! ) Climbs bouldery wall to good jug then right onto neat wall. 5 bolts + twin lower-off. 15/2/08 Josie Ball.( grade was difficult due to josies height and LONG reach at top)

In Loving Memory * F6b Climbs the line to the right of last route 5 bolts + twin bolt lower off.Difficult to grade due to Josies height. 14/4/08 Josie Ball.

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales