Grasper Buttress

The first four routes are best approached from the concrete area immediately at the end of the buildings, a fairly direct line leads you up to the base of the crag.

* Gillijo V. Diff
Overhanging branches cleared, start should stay drier
** Rip Torn E2 5c
Overhanging branches cleared, start should stay drier
** Valerie’s Rib H. Severe
Overhanging branches cleared, start should stay drier
*** Valour E2 5b, 5a, 5c
Overhanging branches cleared, start should stay drier (Will feel like E3 when the peg finally goes)
The Pink Fridge E3 6a
Clean, and overhanging branches removed

The following routes are best approached via the Christmas Curry path. This enters the woods by the collection of metal grids on the road and is very well defined now, when you meet rock head left and look out for the photographed areas.

*** The Grasper E2 5b, 5cApproach to Clapton's Crack and Grasper area
Approach from foot of Clapton’s Crack, very clean and excellent done in one pitch, might feel like E3 though!
* New Management E3 6a
Not sure where this goes, anyone?
*** Zukator/Grasper Combo E3 5c
Ivy trimmed, approach improved
The Man Who Fell to Earth
Approach improved
* Quite easy for Bigheads E6 6b
Approach improved
** Marathon Man E5 6a
Fully gardened
** Clapton’s Crack VS 4b 4a
Approach improved, head up towards Kestrel Cracks. Take a small track left towards a broken corner (in-situ steel rung), clamber up this then scramble (could be Diff) up to a tree. Clapton’s Crack is the fine corner line. The first pitch is not strenuous but gives delightful bridging and jamming. Take a semi-hanging stance at the top of the corner so you can watch your second. Now climb up over blocks and then step right on to a slab which is followed to a good flake (optional belay) head up broken rocks on the left to the top.
The Sword

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales