Dali’s Hole

BOLT HANGERS AND LOWER OFF’S HAVE BEEN REMOVED!!!!!!!!!!!! Dali’s Hole (Holy, Holy, Holy Area)

Use the following link for a map of the ‘spiral / round the back of the fence’ access

Dali’s Hole – routes still climbable

Zambezi – VS

Launching Pad – E1 – Check 2 bolt hanger present.

Holy Holy Holy – E2

Telescopic Stem MasterV3. New Bolts and Lower off. 09/06

Tower of Laughter E1. New Bolts and Lower off. 09/06

Dali’s Hole (Hidden Wall)

Minder E4. New bolts one replacing a peg and another between the 1st and 3rd was added and Lower off. 10/06
Her Indoors E3. New bolts one replacing a peg and another to protect loose easy ground at the top and Lower off. 10/06

Dali’s Slab

This little buttress now has a bolt belay on top.
Medicine Show HVS. New Bolt. 3/07
When the Wind Blows E3. New Bolts one added to the top. 3/07

Dali’s Wall

First and Last E1. New bolt and Lower Off. 09/06
The Hemulin E2. New bolt. 09/06
Grandads rib E1. New bolt. 09/06 (Large detached block up and right where coy mistress used to be, although the resulting groove has been ascended)
Dali Mirror E2. New Bolt. 09/06

DeBolted Routes

1. Le Gendre F6a+. New route starts right of At the Cost Of a Rope. 5 bolt runners to lower off.
FA Rob Spencer, Colin Goodey, Kath Goodey 01/06/07

2. Mon Amie.F5b New route right of Le Gendre starts above an old rusty peg-5bolts to lower off.
FAColin Goodey,Caroline Wigley 5/6/07

3. Tolerance F4c Left of Le Grandpere FA Colin Goodey,C Wigley 6/06/07

4. Le Grandpere F5c. New route to left of Emerald ****.4 bolts to LO
FA Colin Goodeyand Sue Goodey 31/5/07

5. Pour Tout le Monde F5c. Right of Le Grandpere.5 bolts to LO
FA Mike Simpkins, Chris Simpkins 12/6/

6. Kinder Sport F4b Left of Emerald **** FA Colin Goodey 23rd/5/07

7. Emerald Dyke F4a Right of Holy, Holy, Holy . New Bolts and Lower off. 10/06

8. La Grandmere F5a New route to right of Emerald **** -3 bolts to lower off
FA. Sue Goodey,andColin Goodey. 23/5/07.Quality route-popular already!

9. Le Petit Pois F6a New route on the black slab right of La Grandmere. 2 bolts to twin bolt lower off.
FA. P.Targett I.LLoyd-Jones 08/10/07

11. Aardman productions F5c. Takes the wall left of Tower of laughter. 4 bolts to a twin bolt lower off. F.A.
P.Targett. T.Hughes. S. Mcguiness.(2nd bolt replaced today 2/3/08 and the messy chain affair replaced too)

13. Resurrection F5b/5c. Rising traverse from 2nd bolt on Le Gendre to the thirds bolts on the next two routes, finish up the last 4 meters of Pour Tout
le Monde. FA Gareth Buckley, Alec Folley (05/08/07)
14. Swing Time F5c/6a. Rising traverse starting at the first bolt on Pour Tout le Monde, clipping the second bolt on Le Grandpere and the 3rd and 4th on
tolerance, finish by clipping the last bolt on Mon aime and using the Le Gendre LO. FA Gareth Buckley, Alec Folley (05/08/07)

15. Binky Bonk Central. F4A. Cleaned line up slab left of LE PETIT POIS. 2 Bolts + lower off protect.
F.A.Julia Widjaya/Jim Kelly 2.06.2008.

16. My Wife’s An Alien. F5B+* Great new line left of Binky Bonk Central. Climb the cleaned groove direct 3 bolts + lower off protect. F.A. Julia Widjaya/Jim
Kelly 15.06.2008

17. CAPTAIN SLOG. F4c. An “Enterprising” new line up the well cleaned groove left of Petit Pois. 3 BR’s protect and shares the same lower-off as My Wife’s
an Alien. F.A. Julia Widjaya/Jim Kelly 23.06.2008

18. SLATE ARRIVALS.F4a. A new line up right of Le Petit Pois. Direct follow the easy groove 2 Bolts + lower off protect.F.A Julia Widjaya/Jim Kelly
SLATE ARRIVALS LEFT F5a This is an eliminate on the above route with some excellent and independant moves. It uses the same bolts as the above
route. Start as for Slate Arrivals and clip the 1st bolt. Make an awkward step lelt and continue up the left hand side of the slab. Clip the second bolt and
finish as for the original route. Charlie Jordan 17/10/08 I have improved the lower off.

19. LA FAMILLE. F4c+ New route right of La Grandmere filling the gap between that route and Binky Bonk.Very thin start leads past two bolts to easier
climbing and twin lower off.FA Colin and Sue Goodey 12/3/09.

20. DEPARTURE LOUNGE F3c. New route after extensive clearing of loose rock and vegetation off the ‘none impressive line’ of :Aliens Stole my……….
The climb which is ideal for children making their first lead,climbs the cleaned rock to right of Pour Tout Le Monde: Julia Widjaya,JimKelly & Colin Goodey.

Superb new route taking the vertical wall left of “Zambesi”. Hard moves passing the initial overlap lead to a harder sequence of sidepulls on the steep wall
above. 5 BR’s protect to bolt lower off. F.A. Lucian Cottle / Jim Kelly.

Rock Climbing Information for North Wales